**UPDATE 3..have my answer**Blew engine..I think..turns over but won't fire...video
05-21-2012, 06:57 PM
#21
TECH Senior Member
If your engine still turns over then you have to diagnose using the flow in the service manual...
( yes, check/swap the ignition relay like was said... but that might not be the end of it )
if you don't do this, then your rebuilt engine won't start either.
( yes, check/swap the ignition relay like was said... but that might not be the end of it )
if you don't do this, then your rebuilt engine won't start either.
05-21-2012, 09:56 PM
#23
TECH Senior Member
The flowchart-like method used by the service manual, I'm sure you've seen it...
( at each step it asks you to perform some test, and then it sends you to a different step based on your test result )
( at each step it asks you to perform some test, and then it sends you to a different step based on your test result )
05-22-2012, 05:52 PM
#26
Seriously????
How do you have a ~500rwhp TA, but not have any idea how to troubleshoot anything? Not trying to be a jerk, but it just doesn't make sense. You have a bunch of posts in this thread, but have no idea where to begin.
You need air, fuel, and spark; assuming that you dont have a mechanical failure.
Fuel- Check pressure at the rail. Check that the wiring to the injectors are firing with the kits they sell at Harbor Freight or rent at Autozone for cheap.
Spark- As already mentioned pull a plug and reconnect the plug wire to it and crank the car, if you see spark, then you have spark.
Air- Assuming that something didnt get sucked in the intake and block airflow, and that you didnt snap the chain so the valves wont open/close, then you should have air.
If you get fuel, air, and spark, and it still doesn't run, then its something mechanical.
Dig in and I hope its an easy fix for you
How do you have a ~500rwhp TA, but not have any idea how to troubleshoot anything? Not trying to be a jerk, but it just doesn't make sense. You have a bunch of posts in this thread, but have no idea where to begin.
You need air, fuel, and spark; assuming that you dont have a mechanical failure.
Fuel- Check pressure at the rail. Check that the wiring to the injectors are firing with the kits they sell at Harbor Freight or rent at Autozone for cheap.
Spark- As already mentioned pull a plug and reconnect the plug wire to it and crank the car, if you see spark, then you have spark.
Air- Assuming that something didnt get sucked in the intake and block airflow, and that you didnt snap the chain so the valves wont open/close, then you should have air.
If you get fuel, air, and spark, and it still doesn't run, then its something mechanical.
Dig in and I hope its an easy fix for you
05-22-2012, 06:02 PM
#27
Seriously????
How do you have a ~500rwhp TA, but not have any idea how to troubleshoot anything? Not trying to be a jerk, but it just doesn't make sense. You have a bunch of posts in this thread, but have no idea where to begin.
You need air, fuel, and spark; assuming that you dont have a mechanical failure.
Fuel- Check pressure at the rail. Check that the wiring to the injectors are firing with the kits they sell at Harbor Freight or rent at Autozone for cheap.
Spark- As already mentioned pull a plug and reconnect the plug wire to it and crank the car, if you see spark, then you have spark.
Air- Assuming that something didnt get sucked in the intake and block airflow, and that you didnt snap the chain so the valves wont open/close, then you should have air.
If you get fuel, air, and spark, and it still doesn't run, then its something mechanical.
Dig in and I hope its an easy fix for you
How do you have a ~500rwhp TA, but not have any idea how to troubleshoot anything? Not trying to be a jerk, but it just doesn't make sense. You have a bunch of posts in this thread, but have no idea where to begin.
You need air, fuel, and spark; assuming that you dont have a mechanical failure.
Fuel- Check pressure at the rail. Check that the wiring to the injectors are firing with the kits they sell at Harbor Freight or rent at Autozone for cheap.
Spark- As already mentioned pull a plug and reconnect the plug wire to it and crank the car, if you see spark, then you have spark.
Air- Assuming that something didnt get sucked in the intake and block airflow, and that you didnt snap the chain so the valves wont open/close, then you should have air.
If you get fuel, air, and spark, and it still doesn't run, then its something mechanical.
Dig in and I hope its an easy fix for you
And I already know I have fuel pressure and an operating fuel pump.
10+ years, trouble free engine. Never had much need to deal with fixes and diagnostics. I know a guy who was racing his 11 second car with a broken crankshaft for 3 weeks. It just had a slight ticking noise he was complaining about......
Anything is possible....look at the pictures of his crankshaft.
Never know what happens with these things when something breaks.
I'll check it tomorrow....its been raining like mad here all day........
.
Last edited by LS6427; 05-22-2012 at 08:27 PM.
05-22-2012, 08:51 PM
#29
TECH Senior Member
LS6427,
Have you checked the easy things yet...!?
- any obvious loose/damage wires...?
- fuses...?
- ignition relay...?
- fuel pressure at the rail...? <-- ok, you said this is good.
- fuel injectors firing (do they tick) while cranking...?
- spark plugs firing while cranking...?
- remove oil cap and see if rocker moves while cranking...?
If you have a scantool, can you read rpm while cranking...? If rpm shows incorrect value then there's a loss of signal from the crank sensor... rereading your posts I'm guessing your crank sensor wiring (located pretty close under the exhaust header) melted together.
BTW: ignition is driven from the crank sensor seeing the crank reluctor spin past it, with some initial phasing from the cam sensor.
Have you checked the easy things yet...!?
- any obvious loose/damage wires...?
- fuses...?
- ignition relay...?
- fuel pressure at the rail...? <-- ok, you said this is good.
- fuel injectors firing (do they tick) while cranking...?
- spark plugs firing while cranking...?
- remove oil cap and see if rocker moves while cranking...?
If you have a scantool, can you read rpm while cranking...? If rpm shows incorrect value then there's a loss of signal from the crank sensor... rereading your posts I'm guessing your crank sensor wiring (located pretty close under the exhaust header) melted together.
BTW: ignition is driven from the crank sensor seeing the crank reluctor spin past it, with some initial phasing from the cam sensor.
05-22-2012, 08:59 PM
#30
I'll get audio/video of it turning over tomorrow.
.
Last edited by LS6427; 05-22-2012 at 09:07 PM.
05-22-2012, 09:06 PM
#31
LS6427,
Have you checked the easy things yet...!?
- any obvious loose/damage wires...?
- fuses...?
- ignition relay...?
- fuel pressure at the rail...? <-- ok, you said this is good.
- fuel injectors firing (do they tick) while cranking...?
- spark plugs firing while cranking...?
- remove oil cap and see if rocker moves while cranking...?
If you have a scantool, can you read rpm while cranking...? If rpm shows incorrect value then there's a loss of signal from the crank sensor... rereading your posts I'm guessing your crank sensor wiring (located pretty close under the exhaust header) melted together.
BTW: ignition is driven from the crank sensor seeing the crank reluctor spin past it, with some initial phasing from the cam sensor.
Have you checked the easy things yet...!?
- any obvious loose/damage wires...?
- fuses...?
- ignition relay...?
- fuel pressure at the rail...? <-- ok, you said this is good.
- fuel injectors firing (do they tick) while cranking...?
- spark plugs firing while cranking...?
- remove oil cap and see if rocker moves while cranking...?
If you have a scantool, can you read rpm while cranking...? If rpm shows incorrect value then there's a loss of signal from the crank sensor... rereading your posts I'm guessing your crank sensor wiring (located pretty close under the exhaust header) melted together.
BTW: ignition is driven from the crank sensor seeing the crank reluctor spin past it, with some initial phasing from the cam sensor.
Looking in the engine bay and under the engine....absolutely nothing to see out of the ordinary.
Maybe I'll get lucky and pop the ignition relay in and it'll start up. Nothing got hot enough to melt the crank sensor. Maybe 230-240 on the gauge.
No scan tool. My friend might be able to meet me, he has OBDII scanner.
I'll report back....I'll check all that stuff tomorrow if its not pouring rain again all day.
Thanks.....
.
05-22-2012, 09:15 PM
#32
I know the sweetest thing to your ears would be that it was just coincidence that your car shut off while doing 150mph but I don't think that's the case. I think you suffered from some sort of catastrophic mechanical failure.
I bet if you drain your oil you'll see silver/metal in it. That would be my next step if I were you.
I bet if you drain your oil you'll see silver/metal in it. That would be my next step if I were you.
05-22-2012, 09:22 PM
#33
I know the sweetest thing to your ears would be that it was just coincidence that your car shut off while doing 150mph but I don't think that's the case. I think you suffered from some sort of catastrophic mechanical failure.
I bet if you drain your oil you'll see silver/metal in it. That would be my next step if I were you.
I bet if you drain your oil you'll see silver/metal in it. That would be my next step if I were you.
.
05-22-2012, 11:12 PM
#34
If you can scan the car, see if any DTC's come up. Your crank position sensor will cut the spark out if its bad or unplugged. When I built my forged motor I left the crank sensor unplugged and the car had fuel but no spark. Plugged the sensor in and the car came to life.
Check all of the above suggestions as well just one more quick check with a scanner before you taring **** apart.
Check all of the above suggestions as well just one more quick check with a scanner before you taring **** apart.
05-22-2012, 11:19 PM
#35
The aforementioned sticky spot when turning over and the white smoke would lead me to a blown head gasket and bent rod.
However, why it won't start I can't guess. When an engine is turning that fast, when any one thing breaks it can take out many others. Way faster than you can turn off the key. Everything you have said so far points to something catastrophic.
Given the situation I would first drain the oil out and see what it looks like. If its not silver and shiny slap, or milky slap a filter on it and new oil.
Check the basics. Fuel, spark, compression at the right time.
However, why it won't start I can't guess. When an engine is turning that fast, when any one thing breaks it can take out many others. Way faster than you can turn off the key. Everything you have said so far points to something catastrophic.
Given the situation I would first drain the oil out and see what it looks like. If its not silver and shiny slap, or milky slap a filter on it and new oil.
Check the basics. Fuel, spark, compression at the right time.
Last edited by LilJayV10; 05-23-2012 at 12:25 AM.
05-23-2012, 07:06 AM
#36
This happened to me last week, running fine and suddenly no power, engine off. The engine did not cough or sputter, just shut off. In my case it was the ignition relay, 14 dollar part! I purchased a crankshaft position sensor as well, that is another part that will shut off an LS motor when its toast. FYI, The day this happened, I noticed it took a few moments longer to start the car. Previously it has always started instantly. In any event, good luck and I hope its not catastrophic! That is what initially popped into my head, as I had been running it pretty hard moments before it cutoff. The fact it shutoff without any drama would leave me to believe you may be ok.
EDIT: This was in the 99
EDIT: This was in the 99
05-23-2012, 12:35 PM
#37
The aforementioned sticky spot when turning over and the white smoke would lead me to a blown head gasket and bent rod.
However, why it won't start I can't guess. When an engine is turning that fast, when any one thing breaks it can take out many others. Way faster than you can turn off the key. Everything you have said so far points to something catastrophic.
Given the situation I would first drain the oil out and see what it looks like. If its not silver and shiny slap, or milky slap a filter on it and new oil.
Check the basics. Fuel, spark, compression at the right time.
However, why it won't start I can't guess. When an engine is turning that fast, when any one thing breaks it can take out many others. Way faster than you can turn off the key. Everything you have said so far points to something catastrophic.
Given the situation I would first drain the oil out and see what it looks like. If its not silver and shiny slap, or milky slap a filter on it and new oil.
Check the basics. Fuel, spark, compression at the right time.
.
05-23-2012, 12:37 PM
#38
This happened to me last week, running fine and suddenly no power, engine off. The engine did not cough or sputter, just shut off. In my case it was the ignition relay, 14 dollar part! I purchased a crankshaft position sensor as well, that is another part that will shut off an LS motor when its toast. FYI, The day this happened, I noticed it took a few moments longer to start the car. Previously it has always started instantly. In any event, good luck and I hope its not catastrophic! That is what initially popped into my head, as I had been running it pretty hard moments before it cutoff. The fact it shutoff without any drama would leave me to believe you may be ok.
EDIT: This was in the 99
EDIT: This was in the 99
.
05-25-2012, 06:12 PM
#39
***UPDATE***
So, I checked everything. Basically, all we could find is that the scanner reads NO rpm's when cranking. So we're gonna put a new Crank Shaft Position sensor in.....not today, probably not this weekend. Maybe Wednesday I'll get a chance. Fingers crossed.
Also, when we charged the battery up better, it tuned over a little smoother and we saw the oil pressure come up a little while cranking. So hopefully nothing inside is bent or broke.
.
So, I checked everything. Basically, all we could find is that the scanner reads NO rpm's when cranking. So we're gonna put a new Crank Shaft Position sensor in.....not today, probably not this weekend. Maybe Wednesday I'll get a chance. Fingers crossed.
Also, when we charged the battery up better, it tuned over a little smoother and we saw the oil pressure come up a little while cranking. So hopefully nothing inside is bent or broke.
.