John_D.

iTrader: (2)

I have a used LS1 to swap into my v6 Camaro. Originally I was going to drop it right in. Then I decided to do intake, heads, and cam while it's out. Also oil pump and timing chain. (it's a '98) And the ls6 valley cover - the intake, heads, and piston tops are covered.... I bought it from a guy who bought it to put in a truck, but he never got around to it. Supposedly it has around 75,000 miles on it.

Then I decided to put rod bolts in it too.

Well, now I've decided that while I'm at it, it makes a lot of sense to put fresh bearings in it, while I have it on a stand and the cover and pan off.... (plus when I got it on a stand and drained the last bit of oil, it clearly had been in there too long and still smelled scorched too)

What do I need to know, to replace the bearings right?

I just finished going over 250 posts that came up when I searched for "bearings". Saw something about #5 and a groove. And something about micro-polishing the journals. Plastigage to confirm clearances. Replace the main bolts. (already have a set of ARP rod bolts on the way)

I don't think my Haynes has all the info I need to know.

Should I clean up the ring grooves while it's all apart too?

Taspeed

iTrader: (1)

be careful cleaning the ring grooves as to not scratch up the ring or piston. All you really need to put bearings in an ls1 is the bearings and make sure the thrust bearing....the middle journal....goes in the right place. Last time I checked with clevite they said not to polish the bearings...which is what I have always done since many years ago, but they say there isn't a reason to anymore and it will help them break in correctly by not. so i don't. You need to check the bearing clearances with plastigage. This will really only tell you if your clearances are right, but at that point in the game unless you are willing to spend the money to start machining things to adjust those clearances that is the only benefit. I say do it anyway. it is good practice.

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Either take it all down, have it checked, magnafluxed, turned if needed (crank) honed etc.. or leave the bearings with the crank untouched. New bearings on a crank thats worn (meaning used not necessarily tore up) will create more of a problem. Like putting new pads on a warped rotor.
Me personally, I would tear it down, have it all checked, balanced, and forge at least the pistons, then add new bearings, rings, etc..