break in engine oil
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
From: Austin, TX
If, by some chance, you are running a flat tappet camshaft, then yes, you will more than likely want to run some oil with a zinc additive to aid in camshaft break in.
Never run Synthetic Oil for break in as it will now allow the rings to seat. Always use straight weight oil. Most will recommend 30w and often after the 20 minute break in, you change, drive 500, change, and then go to whatever weight non-syn or syn if you prefer.
Some non roller SBC I may use other oil as it helps with lubrications on flat tappet cams but here is some...
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/brk.aspx
http://www.amazon.com/Brad-Penn-009-.../dp/B002RF8IN2
http://www.valvoline.com/products/br...ng-motor-oil/6 VR1 has a Straight 30 but is high zinc to help with the flat tap cams as well.
Some non roller SBC I may use other oil as it helps with lubrications on flat tappet cams but here is some...
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/brk.aspx
http://www.amazon.com/Brad-Penn-009-.../dp/B002RF8IN2
http://www.valvoline.com/products/br...ng-motor-oil/6 VR1 has a Straight 30 but is high zinc to help with the flat tap cams as well.
Last edited by BlackScreaminMachine; May 30, 2012 at 12:45 PM.
I used regular Valvoline 5w-30 dino for the break in on my build. Someone else will probably chime in and say what a bad idea it is and how you need special break in lube that costs $10 a quart... but I've got over 2500 happy miles on my rebuild and not a leak, tick, or rattle one.
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I know this is an older post , but I feel this is very overlooked and most people think oil is just oil ? Even in roller engines you should use a high zinc oil usually racing oils and non detergents still have these additives, they help eliminate needle bearing failure by preventing gauling on new engine start ups and add extra lubrication and high stress areas like rocker tips and lifter needle bearings....Valvoline makes a new racing oil not the VR this is full synthetic with additives in 10w40 and 10w30 for about $7 a quart on the shelf at most parts stores. I know alot of the world of outlaw modified guys run Brad Penn oil and live by it they are most likely some of the highest horsepower small block that get continually abused. the power these motors are making now was not even dreamed of for a N/A street car or daily driver 15 years ago so oil is a critical part in having a long engine life, the stress's on the engine have not changed just the convenience to make the power.
Last edited by ss_454; Aug 10, 2012 at 02:45 PM.
acutally the new rotella doesnt have much more of the ZDDP wear additive than any other one. I used to use it in my flat tappet 72 vette but after they reformulated I am now using VR1
Please cite where you got that information. I just spoke to an engineer at Shell and all of their multi weight oils such as Rotella T triple protection and T5 have 1200 ppm zddp. Only the straight weight have reduced Zinc and Phos from old formula.
Call up Joe Gibbs oil, ask for Lake Speed Jr. Very knowledgeable. I used their BR30 for break in.
They still recommended the old school method of firing it up and run it for 20 minutes of 2000-3000RPM in park, then change the filter, then drive back roads for 1 1/2 hours, drain every bit of oil out, change filter again, and run their LS30 oil. I did that, and I have zero problems.
They still recommended the old school method of firing it up and run it for 20 minutes of 2000-3000RPM in park, then change the filter, then drive back roads for 1 1/2 hours, drain every bit of oil out, change filter again, and run their LS30 oil. I did that, and I have zero problems.
That's pretty much what i am going to do but with Rotella T 10w-30 then switch to VR1 10w-30. At 1200 ppm it is fine for breakin and at $13 for 4 qts a bargain to boot. The VR1 isn't bad either at 5.49/qt. I am also looking at Rotella T5 blend 10w-30 for normal oil after breakin. $18 for 4 qt.
Mike
Mike
Call up Joe Gibbs oil, ask for Lake Speed Jr. Very knowledgeable. I used their BR30 for break in.
They still recommended the old school method of firing it up and run it for 20 minutes of 2000-3000RPM in park, then change the filter, then drive back roads for 1 1/2 hours, drain every bit of oil out, change filter again, and run their LS30 oil. I did that, and I have zero problems.
They still recommended the old school method of firing it up and run it for 20 minutes of 2000-3000RPM in park, then change the filter, then drive back roads for 1 1/2 hours, drain every bit of oil out, change filter again, and run their LS30 oil. I did that, and I have zero problems.
With Rotella
Fire it up, check for leaks, take it straight to the interstate for varying speeds and rpm for 35-40 miles.
I run first oil for 100 miles, change, then 500 miles, change to whatever you want to use.
I cut the filter open on the first two changes.
