RezinTexas

thanks for the catch, no that 1/4" drive ratchet was just to thread them in. there was some light surface corrosion on the threads and this made it go faster. I hit the bottom, then backed off 1/4 turn.

RezinTexas

thanks guys

RezinTexas

Swap is done. Patrick G is coming over today for the initial startup and driveability tune.

I had to order Racetronix injector harness adaptors, so that delayed me a week.

I turned the engine over with the starter (fuel pump disconnected) and there were no obvious problems.

LQ4 coming out:







Setting up 4-point chain rigging on new engine.



Installing new engine.






^ that's RTV on the knock sensor outer grommets, to help them seal out fluids (moisture, oil leaks, etc.)


^ Still have the factory intake for a few months. Going to upgrade to a Tony M fast lsxrt ASAP.



The LT headers are just connected with clamps for now. I retained the factory cats.

After the exhaust welding, new mufflers, new intake manifold, and possibly other small changes - I'll take the truck to Victoria for the dyno tuning.

Now I just hope I don't have any problems with the startup!

Jimbo1367

I always thought you had to linehone mains with the studs installed. Also....... did you blow out the head bolt holes with compressed air before installing the studs?

RezinTexas

The engine runs great! Patrick got it dialed in nicely. I really need to update the intake (Tony M) and exhaust, but its running!

Working with Patrick was great and I highly recommend his services.

More info to come later.


the block was line honed with the studs at HKE, see the first post.

I didn't blow out the holes, but they were dry because the block was sitting for over a year before it was installed.

garygnu

great thread !out with the old ,in with the better.I see a fast truck intake in your future.that would be great to deal with peeps like Pat-G in person.

RezinTexas

The engine runs extremely well. Here are my observations and issues from the first 100 miles:

1. Oil pressure shot up within 5sec of initial startup - and it stays between 40 and 60 at all times. This is higher than I was expecting because I'm using 30wt oil and all my bearing clearances are on the high side. My main clearances are up to 0.0032", rods up to 0.0028", and cam bearings up to 0.0060".

2. The connection from the LT headers to the factory pipes is currently held together with flex joints and clamps. I need to have this welded ASAP due to several small leaks.

3. In order to keep the factory cats with the LT headers, I had to route the driver's side pipe closer to the transmission pan (4l80e). The exhaust is about 1.5-2" away from the pan, however the whole pipe has shifted closer to the edge of the tranny pan. I also had to remove the factory tranny heat shield because it would not fit with the LT headers. Would the extra heat cause issues with the transmission? Although the OEM tranny temp gauge never shows above 200F, the shifting from 1-2 and 2-3 is now very hard after freeway driving. This was not the case before with the stock 6.0. My initial thoughts are to install a bigger tranny cooler and wrap the pipe with header wrap near the transmission - maybe that will help.

4. Muffler needs to be upgraded. It still has the stock one on right now and I know that is holding me back. I don't want it loud, I'm thinking about this one, any thoughts?

http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/s...=main&id=10453

5. Stock LQ4 intake/TB are still on, and combined with the stock muffler, I think it is really holding me back. It doesn't pull any harder at 6k than it does at 4k. I need that Tony M intake ASAP!!

6. It is a little slow to start. Battery/alternator/starter check out ok for a stock engine, however I suspect that this higher compression motor (11.3 scr) is harder to start. I'm first going to try to improve my ground connections and run a bigger wire to the starter. Then I'll try a 850 CCA battery, then a high performance starter as a last result.

Any help on the above would be appreciated!

garygnu

what tuning did you do for start up.you will need to upgrade the exhaust for the final tune.you can make a heat shield or try some thermo-flex from cool-it thermo tec.I use it on my vette exhaust near the trans.you can find it at jegs or summit.

RezinTexas

Update: I got the exhaust welded and cats removed. Contrary to what I thought earlier, I'm keeping the stock muffler because it has a good resonator and a trusted source has told me that the 2500 truck muffler is almost as free-flowing as most aftermarket mufflers. So right now the truck has 1.75" TSP headers, two 3" pipes back to stock muffler, and 1 tail pipe. The sound is pure sex at idle and there is ZERO drone when driving it - best of both worlds. Not to mention the stock tail pipe is very stealth, haha.

Removing the cats improved the driveability and power to the ground. I'm thinking they were plugged up pretty good, 12 years old and 117k miles...

Tranny still shifts hard when warmed up, even though the tranny temp gauge shows normal. I might have possibly damaged some of the tranny connectors when I removed the harness, I need to check that first.

Patrick G came over for the base tune, initial startup, and driveability tune.

Thanks for the heads up on the thermoflex, is it a sleeve or a wrap? The pipes are already welded so it would not go on as a sleeve.

99 2500

I've seen one of those mufflers cut open and it's definitely far from free flowing. If I remember correctly the single exit pipe measures 2.5 inside the muffler but you definitely won't find a free'er flowing muffler that is as quiet as that one.

RezinTexas

Interesting. the thing I'm worried about with an aftermarket muffler is finding one with the properly sized resonator. I don't want any highway drone. Thanks for the info.

99 2500

I've read that a lot of people like the Flo Pro muffler for handling drone but yet free flowing, but I don't have any personal experience with it.

Ws6kid.

great build man, I have to ask where did you get all those measuring tools?!

RezinTexas

thanks man, here's the list:

1. Dial bore gauge, 0.001mm (for bearing clearances), Mitutoyo 511-169, $301 on Amazon
2. Micrometer 2-3", 0.0001", Mitutoyo 103-217, $121 on Amazon
3. Micrometer 3-4", 0.0001" (for measuring pistons), Mitutoyo 103-218, $139 on Amazon
4. Small in-lb beam-type torque wrench, 1/4" drive, $80 at Napa
5. Rod bolt stretch gauge, Lunati 98401, $70 at Jegs
6. Generic dial indicators, .001" (for valvetrain measurements), $22 at Jegs
7. Bridge stand for dial indicator, $40 at Jegs
8. Adjustable boom stand for dial indicator, $30 at Jegs
9. Cam degree wheel, Comp Cams 4790, $17 at Jegs

garygnu

with you attention to detail and you should build or assemble engines for other people in you spare time .

Jadedbird

iTrader: (27)

whatcha thinking.. 5 mpg?

RezinTexas

sure! I'm down for that. You interested?

it gets a solid 8/12 haha.

ckpitt55

iTrader: (4)

Awesome build Rezin, great attention to detail. Just out of curiosity, what kind of o-o-R and taper did you see in the cylinder bores after you got the block back from machining? What ptw clearance are you running?

Also did you ever get your new intake setup installed yet?

RezinTexas

thanks man, I'm enjoying your build thread as well.

See this thread for the piston to wall clearance measurements. However I didn't have torque plates so I don't know how representative the measurements are. I'm planning to use your idea for the next build (bolt on heads and measure from the bottom).

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...clearance.html

what is ptw?

Don't have the new intake yet. Life got in the way and took all my cash. It will be done soon. I can feel the stock intake cut off all power at about 3500-4000 rpm's. it sucks. At least the engine is running good though.

King Nothing

iTrader: (9)

wow awesome build!!!!! bookmarked for obvious reasons