Cam and head swap the right way - Part checklist
#1
Cam and head swap the right way - Part checklist
Ok, so I'm planning on doing a head and cam swap and I want to do this right. I'm shopping around trying to get some good prices and I'm working on my list of parts to get. I'm going to be doing all the work myself and I don't want to cut any corners or forget something that could come back to bite me later. Right now I've got full boltons, LS6 intake, an SS4000 converter, and I will do the tune myself. Please let me know if you see anything missing, comments and suggestions welcome:
Meat and Potatoes
Cam - have my eye on a AI 234/238 .629 .630 112+5 LSA
Heads - I have a fully assembled set of stock 243s with 42k miles on them. Not planning on doing anything to them at this time due to budget.
Supporting Mods
Melling high volume oil pump
Trunion Upgrade
Springs to match the cam - Need advice on which ones for the cam listed above and stock 243 valves? Do I need seats/retainers/locks?
ARP head bolts
GM MLS head gaskets
LS7 Lifters
Katech Rod Bolts
PTV Checker
LS2 timing chain
New Crank bolt
LS2 Lifter Trays
Tools
Spring compressor
PTV Checker
Meat and Potatoes
Cam - have my eye on a AI 234/238 .629 .630 112+5 LSA
Heads - I have a fully assembled set of stock 243s with 42k miles on them. Not planning on doing anything to them at this time due to budget.
Supporting Mods
Melling high volume oil pump
Trunion Upgrade
Springs to match the cam - Need advice on which ones for the cam listed above and stock 243 valves? Do I need seats/retainers/locks?
ARP head bolts
GM MLS head gaskets
LS7 Lifters
Katech Rod Bolts
PTV Checker
LS2 timing chain
New Crank bolt
LS2 Lifter Trays
Tools
Spring compressor
PTV Checker
Last edited by Golf&GM; 07-06-2012 at 05:10 PM.
#2
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Just so you know you would have to get your rods re-sized if you used the ARP rod bolts. Saw a thread on here the other day where a guy used them in his build without re-sizing and he effd-up his motor pretty good. Use the Katech rod bolts instead, no re-sizing necessary.
#4
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Here's a couple tools if you don't already have them:
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-valve...1&blockType=G1
http://www.coloradospeed.com/index.p...ducts_id=10976
In the likely event that you can't re-use your factory rusted header bolts, try these, I just ordered a set.
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...ls6-5-7l-6-0l/
Also FYI, my Chilton's manual says to never replace the timing chain without replacing the gears also. don't know if that's really necessary or not.
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-valve...1&blockType=G1
http://www.coloradospeed.com/index.p...ducts_id=10976
In the likely event that you can't re-use your factory rusted header bolts, try these, I just ordered a set.
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...ls6-5-7l-6-0l/
Also FYI, my Chilton's manual says to never replace the timing chain without replacing the gears also. don't know if that's really necessary or not.
#6
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if you wana do this build right, i would go with an aftermarket set of heads. like AFR, i went the cheap route with stg 2.5 LS6 and wish id gone afternarket. there are alot to choose from TF heads are good so is TEA etc...
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#10
Here's a couple tools if you don't already have them:
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-valve...1&blockType=G1
http://www.coloradospeed.com/index.p...ducts_id=10976
In the likely event that you can't re-use your factory rusted header bolts, try these, I just ordered a set.
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...ls6-5-7l-6-0l/
Also FYI, my Chilton's manual says to never replace the timing chain without replacing the gears also. don't know if that's really necessary or not.
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-valve...1&blockType=G1
http://www.coloradospeed.com/index.p...ducts_id=10976
In the likely event that you can't re-use your factory rusted header bolts, try these, I just ordered a set.
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...ls6-5-7l-6-0l/
Also FYI, my Chilton's manual says to never replace the timing chain without replacing the gears also. don't know if that's really necessary or not.
I would love to but I think these 243s going to have to do me for now. I got them for pretty cheap so I don't have a lot of money tied up in them. My goal is to run in the low 7s 1/8 mile and I know I'll be close with this setup. My financial situation is going to start looking up in the next year or two and I'll be able to spring for a nice set of heads, but until then I think these will get me to where I want to be. And the extra money I save on heads now can be used if my trans decides to take a dump in the fall when the season picks up. I always like to budget for things breaking so the car isn't down for too long.
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I would love to but I think these 243s going to have to do me for now. I got them for pretty cheap so I don't have a lot of money tied up in them. My goal is to run in the low 7s 1/8 mile and I know I'll be close with this setup. My financial situation is going to start looking up in the next year or two and I'll be able to spring for a nice set of heads, but until then I think these will get me to where I want to be. And the extra money I save on heads now can be used if my trans decides to take a dump in the fall when the season picks up. I always like to budget for things breaking so the car isn't down for too long.
#12
No problem, I like the input from people who have been there and done it before. Gives me hope I'll get there soon enough
As far as spring, what do you think about this kit? I'm just starting to research springs so I have no idea if this is more than I need or not. Would I need the spring retainer kit or do I just need the springs? I'm on a budget, but I do want to do it the right way. Either way, from what I'm seeing so far, this price looks pretty decent
https://ls1tech.com/forums/new-produ...its-219-a.html
As far as spring, what do you think about this kit? I'm just starting to research springs so I have no idea if this is more than I need or not. Would I need the spring retainer kit or do I just need the springs? I'm on a budget, but I do want to do it the right way. Either way, from what I'm seeing so far, this price looks pretty decent
https://ls1tech.com/forums/new-produ...its-219-a.html
#15
I would get standard gm head bolts and put that extra money towards cometic .040 gaskets. If you were to consider that I'd call AI first and ask them about PTV clearance with that cam. Either way I wouldn't throw away an extra C-note on ARP head bolts on a naturally aspirated application
#16
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the list looks pretty good, the only thing i would change is the oil pump, instead of high volume i would get a high pressure, also if you have the money i would do studs...ill be doing the swap in a week or two, good luck!!!
#18
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DON'T CHEAP OUT ON SPRINGS!!!!
Trust a guy that's on motor #3. I ran patriot dual golds. 1 broke 1 cracking... Twice... Should have learned the 1st time.
Now running comp 921s. Will cheap springs break on you? Maybe not. But if they do, the few hundred $$ you spend now could save you thousands later on.
It did give me incentive to forge my current motor out lol
Trust a guy that's on motor #3. I ran patriot dual golds. 1 broke 1 cracking... Twice... Should have learned the 1st time.
Now running comp 921s. Will cheap springs break on you? Maybe not. But if they do, the few hundred $$ you spend now could save you thousands later on.
It did give me incentive to forge my current motor out lol
#19
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Just little crap that i had ran into with my build so far..
130k on my car everything brittle ....
Knock sensor wiring harness, broke when trying to remove off knock sensors to replace knock sensors.
I went ahead and did the ls6 pcv conversion.
Also went ahead and did ported oil pump tsp's unit.
New oil pressure sensor.
New coolant temp sensor broke it clumsyness.
Be prepared for head bolt cleanout, lots of coolant and nasty gets in there.
I used wire wool and sctch pads to clean my block surface, there is better ways.
Teflon tape for new sensors ect,
When back together coolant to fill it back up, oil change handy.
Header gaskets, spark plug change . Ws6 store has oem header/manifold bolts.
New o2 sensors .
Thats what i have ran into so far for little stuff lots of nuts and bolts reccomend plastic baggies im kicking myself for not...
130k on my car everything brittle ....
Knock sensor wiring harness, broke when trying to remove off knock sensors to replace knock sensors.
I went ahead and did the ls6 pcv conversion.
Also went ahead and did ported oil pump tsp's unit.
New oil pressure sensor.
New coolant temp sensor broke it clumsyness.
Be prepared for head bolt cleanout, lots of coolant and nasty gets in there.
I used wire wool and sctch pads to clean my block surface, there is better ways.
Teflon tape for new sensors ect,
When back together coolant to fill it back up, oil change handy.
Header gaskets, spark plug change . Ws6 store has oem header/manifold bolts.
New o2 sensors .
Thats what i have ran into so far for little stuff lots of nuts and bolts reccomend plastic baggies im kicking myself for not...
#20
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Dont worry about it there a great quality head and they do make good power. But they are a budget freindly head that doesnt make the power of a 2300 dollar head... So people get mad cause there 1400 dollar heads dont make the same power.. but its all about your setup.. ive seen 470plus rwhp with ms3 prc5.3 head combos... Bit they had full bolt ons and fast intakes.
Last edited by reeperz28; 07-08-2012 at 09:22 AM.