Yes, I saw them. No, i'm not sure of the specs. as mentioned before, the parts were bought used, so we had no way to verify the characteristics of the cam or heads.

Mike

PS: Just ordered a catch can. Guess i'll have to pull the plugs and see what damage I did to them.

 

You should have been able to get a serial number or model number off of the camshaft. Are you sure it is degreed properly. I have seen them off as much as 4 degrees from the factory

Also what the others are saying about the air flow matters a great deal! The two biggest improvements I made on my car to date are the addition of a K&N FIPK and Hooker LTs with ORY. That really woke up my car. I have not had it dynoed, but the difference was night and day to what it was before!

 

Thanks for the info.

I can understand the whole "waking up" part. Like I said before, I've got l/ts and an off road y on there, which I figured would make a big difference. But ****, i've seen these numbers from a full bolt on car, so it kinda disappoints me. I do have a good powerband, however. The lid should be here tomorrow ,cutout's sittin' in the garage, and the catch can, who knows hwne that'll be here. Those should help a little bit.

As for the camshaft, it was an xtreme energy cam, I saw that on the end of it when we put it in, but it didn't have any measurements on it. I guess I didn't bother to write down the serial number either. I mean you can tell it's a 114....the way it sounds proves it.

Mike

 

I think the lid will help you! Let us know how it goes!

 

The springs are prolly 918 blue stripes....

 

How is the valve train noise. I wouldn't think you would need .050 shorter pushrods with that setup. I'm guessing that where you said your heads are .030 over means they were milled .030. That amount should be close enough to the smaller base circle of the 224 cam where stock 7.400 pushrods will work. It would be something to try anyway. Also, is the car an A4 or M6?

 

To read up on the PCV valve go to www.installuniversity.com .
They have a really good article on changing one.

 

Bringing it back up...

Just picked up a oil catch can which I installed today. I put an SLP lid on the car two days ago. The cutout will go on tomorrow. I'm going to check the plugs tomorrow, as well, to see if there's any possibility that I fouled them with that oil. There was no knock on teh dyno (VERY little, anyway) I will tell you that with the 20 or so miles Ip ut on the car today, I could SEE the oil residue on the incoming line of the catch can, and the outgoing line was perfectly clear. Bizarre how that stuff works.

Anyway, what other stuff should I pick up before I put it on the dyno to pick up the power? My torque is especially sad right now. Would some more intake pieces be the most beneficial, or is there something else I cna do?

In response to the questions, valve train noise is minimal. Then again, i have lts and o/r y and a loudmouth right now, so you tell me what i'd hear You can tell the difference, though. In terms of the pushrods, I imagine we would have figured that out pretty quickly, but the shop seemed to think they were okay (as okay as they could have been...)

Other tips, guys?

Mike