a few questions from a newbie: iron block????
04-06-2004, 11:23 PM
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a few questions from a newbie: iron block???? What is the difference between an iron block and aluminum block? what are the pros and cons of each? also if i wanted to go for a high hp NA setup what is a good one that would still be reliable to drive? I was thinking like a 383 stroker or boring it out.....
how often do people order crate engines and just swap high hp crate engines into their f-bods?
one more ?: i have about $4000, what would get me a good 450-500hp to the ground? I want to be able to at least keep up with a viper if not beat one....tia
how often do people order crate engines and just swap high hp crate engines into their f-bods?
one more ?: i have about $4000, what would get me a good 450-500hp to the ground? I want to be able to at least keep up with a viper if not beat one....tia
04-06-2004, 11:36 PM
#2
4 k is a little shy for good power through the curve,,,,but..
Headers, Heads, perhaps Absolute or TEA, let head flow dictate the cam, ls6 intake, lid, pully, gears... thats a good start.. no majic, just money and good choices needed. As far as a iron block... unless you want over 600 HP I wouldnt even consider it... basically, power adder situations. A cheap bigger cube motor however can be had with iron... but the weight may offset gains of cubes somehat, or entirely.
Headers, Heads, perhaps Absolute or TEA, let head flow dictate the cam, ls6 intake, lid, pully, gears... thats a good start.. no majic, just money and good choices needed. As far as a iron block... unless you want over 600 HP I wouldnt even consider it... basically, power adder situations. A cheap bigger cube motor however can be had with iron... but the weight may offset gains of cubes somehat, or entirely.
04-06-2004, 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Jammer
4 k is a little shy for good power through the curve,,,,but..
Headers, Heads, perhaps Absolute or TEA, let head flow dictate the cam, ls6 intake, lid, pully, gears... thats a good start.. no majic, just money and good choices needed. As far as a iron block... unless you want over 600 HP I wouldnt even consider it... basically, power adder situations. A cheap bigger cube motor however can be had with iron... but the weight may offset gains of cubes somehat, or entirely.
Headers, Heads, perhaps Absolute or TEA, let head flow dictate the cam, ls6 intake, lid, pully, gears... thats a good start.. no majic, just money and good choices needed. As far as a iron block... unless you want over 600 HP I wouldnt even consider it... basically, power adder situations. A cheap bigger cube motor however can be had with iron... but the weight may offset gains of cubes somehat, or entirely.
04-07-2004, 12:44 AM
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LS1 engines are plenty expensive in stock form, so strokers just add from there. Expect about double for a good built stroker with the proper components. Iron blocks do add a little weight, but have a decent bore size to start, 4.0" bore standard. Most common Iron engine other than stock would be a 408ci engine. Most iron block guys go .030" oversized which is what I would recommend if building one, but some blocks have enough to go .060" over, but you have to be really check the cylinder thickness at that level. Some blocks will go .060" and some won't. Without resleeving the stock aluminum block, you can have as big as a 395ci engine, which would be a 3.905" bore, and 4.125" stroke, although the more common 382/383 is more plentyful which is 3.905" bore, and 4.0" stroke.
Resleeving an aluminum block costs about in the $2500 range if you supply the block, but you have more engine choices...382 big bore, 427ci, 434ci, 441ci... You would need deeper pockets for any of those choices though!
For about $4000, here's what I would do... You'd be surprised how far/fast you can go with stock CI motors:
CNC'd 5.3L Heads
Split duration cam (N20 style) I'm partial to our TSP 231/237
Long Tube headers + y-pipe
TNT or NX nitrous kit and proper components (window switch/ fuel pump)
Common bolt-ons with remaining cash, underdrive pulley, ported TB, maybe some gears/tires
Come to think of it, nitrous alone is probably enough to slaughter a viper with a LS1 car.
Resleeving an aluminum block costs about in the $2500 range if you supply the block, but you have more engine choices...382 big bore, 427ci, 434ci, 441ci... You would need deeper pockets for any of those choices though!
For about $4000, here's what I would do... You'd be surprised how far/fast you can go with stock CI motors:
CNC'd 5.3L Heads
Split duration cam (N20 style) I'm partial to our TSP 231/237
Long Tube headers + y-pipe
TNT or NX nitrous kit and proper components (window switch/ fuel pump)
Common bolt-ons with remaining cash, underdrive pulley, ported TB, maybe some gears/tires
Come to think of it, nitrous alone is probably enough to slaughter a viper with a LS1 car.
04-07-2004, 04:32 AM
#5
TECH Enthusiast
I agree with Joesph on this, a good head and cam set-up on Nitrous is much closer to your price range. It would still make good power though, I think you'd be really happy and the car would be fun to drive.
No to mention that you would be stomping Vipers left and right.
No to mention that you would be stomping Vipers left and right.
