coolant leaks out of HEADER bolts..
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From: Collinsville, IL
coolant leaks out of HEADER bolts.. I have a set of 317 heads on that I bought used. I paid $400 for a valve job/blend plus ferrea valves and PAC 1518 springs, etc. Can the perforated water jackets be successfully welded? I essentially have 2 options.
1. Have the water jackets welded and new threads cut into every header bolt hole.
2. Buy another set of 317 heads, get another valve job, and have them swap over my valves/springs.
I know I can seal the threads on the bolts. It is just a damn hassle because I take my headers off too often...and then coolant drips out. I could place header studs and seal the threads. However, the threads in the head are pretty much crap and need redone anyways. I have a feeling option 1 will be cheaper. Suggestions?
1. Have the water jackets welded and new threads cut into every header bolt hole.
2. Buy another set of 317 heads, get another valve job, and have them swap over my valves/springs.
I know I can seal the threads on the bolts. It is just a damn hassle because I take my headers off too often...and then coolant drips out. I could place header studs and seal the threads. However, the threads in the head are pretty much crap and need redone anyways. I have a feeling option 1 will be cheaper. Suggestions?
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I have talked to two reputable shops and they both recommended trying to seal in some head studs. one shop recommended red RTV and the other recommended teflon tape. I am not thinking the teflon tape will work too well. I have used high temp thread sealer on them before and that seemed to work ok. I am not sure if there is something better to use or not??
Launching!
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From: greensboro, nc
Not sure if the threads are deep enough, but you could look into using a short set screw as a permanent plug and seal/screw it into the bottom of the hole. Then install the studs or bolts over the set screw. This would allow head removal without breaking the seal. You need to check the final thread engagement on the bolts though.
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I was using factory bolts, so I know that I didn't break through. I have a feeling the previous owner broke off header bolts. When they were repaired/drilled out, I have a feeling this is when the damage was done. Thats what I get for buying used heads...
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the threads are definitely not too deep. that is a pretty darn good idea though. i am going to try some high temp sealant on some arp header studs. i just want these to seal up!
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If the threads are good enough for the studs to hold then why not. Otherwise thread repair then stud. I personally don't think that the teflon pipe sealant will take the heat but it is great stuff. But I have not tried that kind of thing. I think I would lean more to loctite red. Thread insert would be a timesert brand. That is a solid insert instead of a helicoil.
How about this. Loctite® 5770 Thread Sealant High Temperature Coarse Threads Seals pipe fittings up to 277°C (530°F)
Typical applications: Ultra high temp applications such as steam pipes, up to 277°C . Need to check if good for anti freeze.
Typical applications: Ultra high temp applications such as steam pipes, up to 277°C . Need to check if good for anti freeze.
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From: Collinsville, IL
i don't know exactly how hot those header bolts get?? I assume if they are touching the coolant they won't get over 400 degrees F, but I could be wrong. Then again, not all of them leak coolant but a handful do.
Launching!
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From: greensboro, nc
I have run into hundreds of times with all types of engines pipe sealant works every time. The studs are nice but not needed you can seal your stock bolts with it and torque them to 18 ftlbs.
I repair these all the time. The 6.0's pop manifold bolts all the time, the shop tries to drill out, and their bit walks and hits a water jacket. I usually put the head in the mill, bore a 3/4" hole about 1.25" deep. Then I make a plug on my lathe, drill that and tap that and press the plug into the head, then weld the plug in. I charge $125 normally.
