Anyone had a water pump fail and leak air INTO cooling system?
09-13-2012, 04:32 PM
#22
As you run through a heating cycle, any air will get pressed out of the radiator and into the overllow as the coolant expands. When it cools and contracts, fluid will get siphoned back in to the radiator.
It sounds like your steam tubes, overflow, etc. should mimic this stock behavior. In that case, the system self-"burps" and will work out all air over a few heat/cool cycles.
The only times this self-bleeding wouldn't work is when more air volume gets pressed in to the system (from a bad head seal or from a bad pump) than the amount of volume increase the system sees from coolant expansion during heating.
09-13-2012, 05:29 PM
#23
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Something is being missed....and is the reason that I asked for more information about your swap.
If nothing else, there were 2 things that I learned from building my turbo'd fbody:
1) Any electric fan other than SPAL fans are not worth a damn. There is a reason why they are so damned expensive. I learned this after using fans from 3 other manufacturers. The CFM claims are outright lies when compared to a SPAL fan of the same CFM rating.
2) There should be NO air gap around the radiator and the core support opening. All air needs to be routed through the radiator, not around it at all. I had to build a cowling/blockoff and seal it all with foam tape to route all air through the raidiator. After I did this, there is ZERO temperature creep, and it cools down quickly in town when the fans kick on.
Before, it would overheat in town...and creep up to 250 after 20 miles on the highway....even in mild ambient air temp situations.
I suspect this is the same issue that you're dealing with now...not enough airflow THROUGH the radiator fins.
If nothing else, there were 2 things that I learned from building my turbo'd fbody:
1) Any electric fan other than SPAL fans are not worth a damn. There is a reason why they are so damned expensive. I learned this after using fans from 3 other manufacturers. The CFM claims are outright lies when compared to a SPAL fan of the same CFM rating.
2) There should be NO air gap around the radiator and the core support opening. All air needs to be routed through the radiator, not around it at all. I had to build a cowling/blockoff and seal it all with foam tape to route all air through the raidiator. After I did this, there is ZERO temperature creep, and it cools down quickly in town when the fans kick on.
Before, it would overheat in town...and creep up to 250 after 20 miles on the highway....even in mild ambient air temp situations.
I suspect this is the same issue that you're dealing with now...not enough airflow THROUGH the radiator fins.
Last edited by salemetro; 09-13-2012 at 05:38 PM.
09-13-2012, 06:09 PM
#24
Something is being missed....and is the reason that I asked for more information about your swap.
If nothing else, there were 2 things that I learned from building my turbo'd fbody:
1) Any electric fan other than SPAL fans are not worth a damn. There is a reason why they are so damned expensive. I learned this after using fans from 3 other manufacturers. The CFM claims are outright lies when compared to a SPAL fan of the same CFM rating.
2) There should be NO air gap around the radiator and the core support opening. All air needs to be routed through the radiator, not around it at all. I had to build a cowling/blockoff and seal it all with foam tape to route all air through the raidiator. After I did this, there is ZERO temperature creep, and it cools down quickly in town when the fans kick on.
Before, it would overheat in town...and creep up to 250 after 20 miles on the highway....even in mild ambient air temp situations.
I suspect this is the same issue that you're dealing with now...not enough airflow THROUGH the radiator fins.
If nothing else, there were 2 things that I learned from building my turbo'd fbody:
1) Any electric fan other than SPAL fans are not worth a damn. There is a reason why they are so damned expensive. I learned this after using fans from 3 other manufacturers. The CFM claims are outright lies when compared to a SPAL fan of the same CFM rating.
2) There should be NO air gap around the radiator and the core support opening. All air needs to be routed through the radiator, not around it at all. I had to build a cowling/blockoff and seal it all with foam tape to route all air through the raidiator. After I did this, there is ZERO temperature creep, and it cools down quickly in town when the fans kick on.
Before, it would overheat in town...and creep up to 250 after 20 miles on the highway....even in mild ambient air temp situations.
I suspect this is the same issue that you're dealing with now...not enough airflow THROUGH the radiator fins.
It is in a fox body mustang. The fan is from a 3.8 Taurus, popular fan because it actually flows almost 4k cfm on high. The shrouding is a good point, this new radiator should help with that since it physically will barely fit between the frame rails vs the current unit that has 3-4" on both sides.
09-13-2012, 08:27 PM
#26
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yeah and I forgot to mention another detail. @26 psi full boost my truck would loose the heater completely which I'm guessing was the big rush of exhaust gas past the gasket displacing all the coolant in the heater core. But At idle and if I drove it easily and kept out of the turbo it was fine.
09-13-2012, 10:00 PM
#27
I hope so!
I've only boosted this new motor to ~6psi so far (on the gate spring), once I trust it I'll turn on the c02 and should see 15-20psi.
yeah and I forgot to mention another detail. @26 psi full boost my truck would loose the heater completely which I'm guessing was the big rush of exhaust gas past the gasket displacing all the coolant in the heater core. But At idle and if I drove it easily and kept out of the turbo it was fine.
09-14-2012, 01:25 PM
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09-16-2012, 05:59 PM
#33
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A cpl things to consider ,,,,,first does or did the car have a front spoiler ? If a fr spoiler is missing this can and usually does cause over-heating ,,,,,,,,,second a radiator cap not holding the designed pressure will allow coolant/water in the form of steam to go to overflow and out into the air .
