98 rod bolts
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TECH Apprentice
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From: Springfield, IL
98 rod bolts im in the process of installing prc 2.5 5.3L heads, tsp v2 cam, flt lvl4 trans, ss3600, and supporting mods (trunion, chain, oil pump, lifters, trays, PR, headers) i dropped the engine and trans out of the bottom so i could do it all at once. someone told me on another forum i should also do rod bolts...it this true? my budget is pretty well gone so if it is true, what all will i have to purchase to do this? bolts, gaskets, bearings, ect...??
98 rod bolts are of a lesser strength than the newer ones.
Yes, replace them. Buy the LS6 rod bolts & torque them in the correct fashion.
I believe the process is covered on LS1HowTo.com.
The good news is that each rod bolt is only $2.63 apiece + ship & handling.
http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results...umber=11610158
Yes, replace them. Buy the LS6 rod bolts & torque them in the correct fashion.
I believe the process is covered on LS1HowTo.com.
The good news is that each rod bolt is only $2.63 apiece + ship & handling.
http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results...umber=11610158
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TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (24)
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From: Springfield, IL
there is no how to on there. i will replace them. can i replace only the bolts or do i need anything else?
any other gaskets needed to get to the rod bolts? any other parts?
any other gaskets needed to get to the rod bolts? any other parts?
Yes, sorry.
LS1HowTo used to have a writeup on rod bolts.
If replacing rod bolts, ONLY, the idea is to replace only 1 bolt at a time on each rod cap. This is so that the rod bearings will stay in the exact position in which they exist. The bearings should not be disturbed.
When installing and tightening new-style rod bolts, the procedure is...tighten the bolt to 15 ft lbs...then tighten that bolt to 75 degrees. Repeat for the other bolt.
IN YOUR CASE, (being a 98) you prob have quite a few miles/usage on your motor. As long as the engine has been removed, also replace the cam, rod, & main bearings.
This is where, because of the engine wear, that you should consider having a machine shop check the rod ends for roundness, and also the main caps & crank bore for straightness. Likewise for the cam bore. Another reason to do this, is because you're adding some quality upgrades to your engine.
I know this is sounding complicated, but you have the engine removed, and the process should be done completely and correctly.
There are other things to consider...possibly a new oil pump with o-ring, oil pan gasket, timing cover gasket, timing cover seal, rear cover seal, rear cover crank seal, rear oil galley barbell, possibly a new rod bearing & main bearing set, cam bearings, waterpump & gaskets.
Main cap bolts & small, side, main cap bolts can be reused.
Now, after telling you this, I'll admit that I did none of the machine shop stuff....just replaced all of the bearings, parts, bolts, etc, and checked & rechecked all bearing tolerances.
LS1HowTo used to have a writeup on rod bolts.
If replacing rod bolts, ONLY, the idea is to replace only 1 bolt at a time on each rod cap. This is so that the rod bearings will stay in the exact position in which they exist. The bearings should not be disturbed.
When installing and tightening new-style rod bolts, the procedure is...tighten the bolt to 15 ft lbs...then tighten that bolt to 75 degrees. Repeat for the other bolt.
IN YOUR CASE, (being a 98) you prob have quite a few miles/usage on your motor. As long as the engine has been removed, also replace the cam, rod, & main bearings.
This is where, because of the engine wear, that you should consider having a machine shop check the rod ends for roundness, and also the main caps & crank bore for straightness. Likewise for the cam bore. Another reason to do this, is because you're adding some quality upgrades to your engine.
I know this is sounding complicated, but you have the engine removed, and the process should be done completely and correctly.
There are other things to consider...possibly a new oil pump with o-ring, oil pan gasket, timing cover gasket, timing cover seal, rear cover seal, rear cover crank seal, rear oil galley barbell, possibly a new rod bearing & main bearing set, cam bearings, waterpump & gaskets.
Main cap bolts & small, side, main cap bolts can be reused.
Now, after telling you this, I'll admit that I did none of the machine shop stuff....just replaced all of the bearings, parts, bolts, etc, and checked & rechecked all bearing tolerances.
Last edited by gMAG; Sep 13, 2012 at 09:47 PM.
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I installed ARP rod bolts while i had the motor COMPLETELY TORN APART!
This is what I did.........
FOLLOW THE INSRTUCTIONS really really easy,
I did what ARP suggests, if you do not have a stretch gauge. then just torque them to the spec CALLED FOR about three times.
I did this with my ls1 and she runs like a champ and havnt heard a single noise from her bottum lol so just do what they specifi and youll be good to go.
I tac my car out all the time, so katech or ARP either way they are a good insurance
This is what I did.........
FOLLOW THE INSRTUCTIONS really really easy,
I did what ARP suggests, if you do not have a stretch gauge. then just torque them to the spec CALLED FOR about three times.
I did this with my ls1 and she runs like a champ and havnt heard a single noise from her bottum lol so just do what they specifi and youll be good to go.
I tac my car out all the time, so katech or ARP either way they are a good insurance
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i ordered a set of Katech rod bolts. and i picked up some rod bearings from oreily's. i realize it is recommended to have a machine shop check clearances and such, but i don't have the time or remaining funds to do so.
I'm not an expert on rod bearings but I would talk to one of the sponsers about changing rod bearings and not checking clearances... you can change one rod bolt at a time and keep the original rod bolts in place, just follow katech's instructions about deburring the threads by threading them in and loosening them a few times and then a final torque down..
Last edited by Burken01; Sep 14, 2012 at 01:20 AM. Reason: mistake
Yeah, you should not need new bearings. Just follow the proper instructions closely. If you have questions I could help guide you through it. I was real afraid to do it, but after installing them on 2 LS1s and both handle 7xxx RPMs, I am pretty sure I know what I am doing/they work right.
Bearings wear, like everything else. As long as the engine is out, it's not a big deal to check a bearing or two to see how they're doing.
I would choose #7 rod bearing, because it tends to show wear more often than the others.
How many miles are on the engine?
You're installing some quality parts. Better to check bearings than to ignore.
I would choose #7 rod bearing, because it tends to show wear more often than the others.
How many miles are on the engine?
You're installing some quality parts. Better to check bearings than to ignore.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (24)
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 397
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From: Springfield, IL
Bearings wear, like everything else. As long as the engine is out, it's not a big deal to check a bearing or two to see how they're doing.
I would choose #7 rod bearing, because it tends to show wear more often than the others.
How many miles are on the engine?
You're installing some quality parts. Better to check bearings than to ignore.
I would choose #7 rod bearing, because it tends to show wear more often than the others.
How many miles are on the engine?
You're installing some quality parts. Better to check bearings than to ignore.
Ive often thought about this. The old bolts are still working fine over here. 6500 rpm rev limit - 108k miles
Im more concerned about fooling with the internals of a good running engine than changing the rod bolts. Ill change them whenever she blows or I rebuild.....
Im more concerned about fooling with the internals of a good running engine than changing the rod bolts. Ill change them whenever she blows or I rebuild.....
