HELP!!! Car is consuming coolant and has a knock!!
After adding more coolant I started the car again, and this time the knock got a little louder. I limped it back to a buddies house (continued to lightly smoke white on the way back).
The knock seems like it isn't consistent, it sounds like it quiets down above 1500 rpms at any throttle but the most throttle I probably gave it at above 1500 rpms is 10-20%. When its below 1500 rpms, if I give it the right amount of gas which is less than 10% throttle the knock quiets down where I can barely hear it. At idle you can hear it knock quietly. To me it doesn't sound like a rod knock, I've heard rod knocks many times and rod knocks are usually loud as hell while this is more quiet.
No idea where to start so I first pulled the plugs, cylinder 5 & 7 had coolant on the plugs. Plugs were still wet. I then did a compression test and all cylinders were 150psi, except cylinder 5. Which had 190psi... (Could it be a false reading from there being coolant in the cylinder?)
I opened the throttle body and there was coolant in the throttle body, PCV valve, and intake. (I did the bypass mod years ago, so the coolant is not coming from the throttle body). Pulled the dipstick to check for coolant in the oil pan and no coolant was found. No oil was found in the radiator either. But there was coolant found under the oil cap, and inside the valve covers, it turned to a milky substance of course.
Pulled the intake off to check if I could visually see anything, but nothing was to be found.
I'm all out of ideas, anybody ever come across something like this???
Pulled the intake off to check if I could visually see anything, but nothing was to be found.
I'm all out of ideas, anybody ever come across something like this???
The coolant in the valve covers was most likely pulled in through the PCV from the intake.
It's time to pull the driver-side head.
How do I know if a rod is bent? Any way to check without pulling the motor?
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When you have the head off, inspect the circumference on top of all the pistons looking for any possible visible damage to the rings or lands. Also, you can put a dial gauge on all of them at top dead center and see if any are down in the hole more than the other.
Sorry for bad news.
When you have the head off, inspect the circumference on top of all the pistons looking for any possible visible damage to the rings or lands. Also, you can put a dial gauge on all of them at top dead center and see if any are down in the hole more than the other.
Beat me to it...I'm always a day late and a dollar short...lol
but first, pull the heads off, clean the deck and pistons with a plastic wheel. check to make sure all the pistons stick up .005 from the deck surface.
Last edited by rumblebox; Sep 24, 2012 at 04:00 PM.
but first, pull the heads off, clean the deck and pistons with a plastic wheel. check to make sure all the pistons stick up .005 from the deck surface.
but first, pull the heads off, clean the deck and pistons with a plastic wheel. check to make sure all the pistons stick up .005 from the deck surface.
Water/Antifreeze in the oil will cause premature bearing failure if not sooner than later. Water and oil do not mix. I would cut my losses and tear it apart. Replace thrust bearings, rod and journal bearings, bore/hone clean up, new rings and ARP bolts all around with new gaskets. I would also have the block dye penetrated.
Water/Antifreeze in the oil will cause premature bearing failure if not sooner than later. Water and oil do not mix. I would cut my losses and tear it apart. Replace thrust bearings, rod and journal bearings, bore/hone clean up, new rings and ARP bolts all around with new gaskets. I would also have the block dye penetrated.
I'm currently pretty sure my rod is bent because of the high compression in one cylinder... And I've also been debating about replacing the ls1 with a 6.0 iron block, any input in the iron block idea?
As far as iron blocks go, I'm happy with mine. I bought my LQ4 as a complete engine, but i wish i had just bought a shortblock and installed the LS3 top end from the beginning. A complete LS3/L76/L99 top end cost less than a FAST intake alone and makes a lot more power than a FAST with stock 243's or 317's.





