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Need Help Picking The Right Cam!!

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Old 10-04-2012, 12:33 PM
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For those of you picking the v3 over the v2 is that because you get a little more out of it in mid range? Which is more easily tuned? i dont know of any well known or reputable tuners in pa but then again i had no reason to until now...

What do you guys have to say about TICKS 231/238?? Keep in mind if need be I will have to use this car as a DD. I definitely want people to know there is a cam in it tho!Haha
Old 10-04-2012, 12:51 PM
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Can these cams be used without changing rods, lifters, etc..? I'm going to get my heads milled to be safe, how much would you guys suggest for that? Or should I stick with a couple thousandths?
Old 10-04-2012, 12:58 PM
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The torquer v3 has a recommended LSA 111, would going with 113-114 make it any better?
Old 10-04-2012, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by RebelMan666
Can these cams be used without changing rods, lifters, etc..? I'm going to get my heads milled to be safe, how much would you guys suggest for that? Or should I stick with a couple thousandths?
In order to do a cam swap the right way you need dual valve springs, push rods, ported oil pump, ls2 timing chain. I got the 228R cam. Its the biggest cam I would run in a street car. The car pulls everywhere and did not lose any torque down low while gaining great top end. I almost ran the Torquer v2 but I am happy with my choice because I know for a fact it would have been a little too much cam for my car.
Old 10-04-2012, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeWS6
In order to do a cam swap the right way you need dual valve springs, push rods, ported oil pump, ls2 timing chain. I got the 228R cam. Its the biggest cam I would run in a street car. The car pulls everywhere and did not lose any torque down low while gaining great top end. I almost ran the Torquer v2 but I am happy with my choice because I know for a fact it would have been a little too much cam for my car.
What were your gains with the 228R?
Old 10-04-2012, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by RebelMan666
What were your gains with the 228R?
About 50hp.
Old 10-04-2012, 03:26 PM
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A one or two degree change in duration will do little to change drivability or the power curve.

Our cam kit comes with push rods, valve springs and the cam. We sell LS7 lifters for 134.99 which I would also suggest doing along with what MikeWs6 said about the LS2 timing chain and a new oil pump if the vehicle has over 50-60k miles, even then if the car is under that I recommend the timing chain at the least and the lifters with the cam package.

I did a 230/234 113+3 cam the other day in a bolt on C6 that picked up 53rwhp and 35rwtq. I would say the 231/238 would pick up slightly more rwhp and rwtq while carrying power a bit further to peak horsepower than the C6 cam did.

I can also do something custom for you that wouldn't leave you having to compromise with an off the shelf grind.
Old 10-04-2012, 04:21 PM
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God's honest truth OP, go with a custom grind. That's what I did. I got what I "needed" and not what I thought I needed.

Mine is a 229/236 .631.631 112+2

A 112 has that rumble you want **PLUS what 99Bluz28 says below my comment here**

http://youtu.be/5DWLWiLrjQU

Last edited by dr_whigham; 10-04-2012 at 05:01 PM.
Old 10-04-2012, 04:56 PM
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Well, it's not the just the LSA that gives you that cam sound, it's a combination of the LSA and Duration of the intake and exhaust lobes, and also the idle speed and tune.
In your case with your 229/236 112lsa you have 8.5*of overlap. Now if you had a 228/228 cam you'd need to have right about a 110lsa to have about the same amount of overlap (228/228 110lsa ~ 8*overlap), but with a larger cam like a 236/240 a 115lsa would give you the same 8* of overlap.
Old 10-04-2012, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by dr_whigham
V3 brings the powerband in a bit lower, which was the only reason I suggested it over the V2.
The V3 might perform better under the curve, but you will probably be switching springs alot.
Old 10-05-2012, 12:55 AM
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Originally Posted by MikeWS6
About 50hp.
What are your supporting mods or was that cam only? (Can't see sigs on my phone..)
Old 10-05-2012, 01:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Martin@Tick
A one or two degree change in duration will do little to change drivability or the power curve.

Our cam kit comes with push rods, valve springs and the cam. We sell LS7 lifters for 134.99 which I would also suggest doing along with what MikeWs6 said about the LS2 timing chain and a new oil pump if the vehicle has over 50-60k miles, even then if the car is under that I recommend the timing chain at the least and the lifters with the cam package.

I did a 230/234 113+3 cam the other day in a bolt on C6 that picked up 53rwhp and 35rwtq. I would say the 231/238 would pick up slightly more rwhp and rwtq while carrying power a bit further to peak horsepower than the C6 cam did.

I can also do something custom for you that wouldn't leave you having to compromise with an off the shelf grind.
I'd like to talk more about a custom grind. So many say its the way to go but idk what all that entails, that why I was just going to go with a shelf cam. I would like something a little bigger than the 228r but I guess I can really only go as big as what the car allows to run as smooth as possible. So lets try going that route to figure it out. Thanks!
Old 10-05-2012, 01:23 AM
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http://guerragroup.com/motorsports

http://www.engpwrsys.com/index.php?act=viewCat&catId=10

Pat G has his cams done with EPS. Comp does the grinding. Takes about 2 weeks.

Be honest about what you want, and you will get an excellent cam.

FWIW, custom cams are becomming more and more popular with all types of hot rodders. Easier than ever to grind em with modern equip.

Mine idles with a nice crackle. Drives nice. And scoots at the track. Just what I wanted.

Ron
Old 10-05-2012, 03:39 AM
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Originally Posted by dr_whigham
God's honest truth OP, go with a custom grind. That's what I did. I got what I "needed" and not what I thought I needed.

Mine is a 229/236 .631.631 112+2

A 112 has that rumble you want **PLUS what 99Bluz28 says below my comment here**

http://youtu.be/5DWLWiLrjQU
Car sounds bad ***!
Old 10-05-2012, 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by TXZ28LS1
The V3 might perform better under the curve, but you will probably be switching springs alot.
Not if you shim to within .050 of coil bind. I know a guy on here, a well known sponsor, that has a set of Comp 921's with 80,000 miles on them. They've been on 3 cars, including about 55 passes on a track only car, and are now in his CTSV daily driver.

Proper set-up yields longevity.
Old 10-05-2012, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by 99Bluz28
Well, it's not the just the LSA that gives you that cam sound, it's a combination of the LSA and Duration of the intake and exhaust lobes, and also the idle speed and tune.
In your case with your 229/236 112lsa you have 8.5*of overlap. Now if you had a 228/228 cam you'd need to have right about a 110lsa to have about the same amount of overlap (228/228 110lsa ~ 8*overlap), but with a larger cam like a 236/240 a 115lsa would give you the same 8* of overlap.
Great explanation. Overlap is the determining factor in how a grind will sound.
Originally Posted by RebelMan666
I'd like to talk more about a custom grind. So many say its the way to go but idk what all that entails, that why I was just going to go with a shelf cam. I would like something a little bigger than the 228r but I guess I can really only go as big as what the car allows to run as smooth as possible. So lets try going that route to figure it out. Thanks!
With a custom grind you get everything you want and don't have to compromise.

Some people like yourself though as you said don't know what all it entails and feel like they will be getting in over there head with something of that nature and think that is too much trouble.

In all reality it's as easy as picking up the phone, giving me a call and simply discussing your exact wants for your vehicle. I'll take down as much information as I can attain from our conversation and then from there find the best possible combination of valve events, camshaft lobes and ultimately the finished profile of your custom cam.

I'm always bouncing around the boards while I'm at work and at home so I'm easily found and very attainable to talk to where as you'll find some of the other cam experts are reclusive and harder to contact. I guarantee you that you'll never have a hard time getting a hold of myself and my other customers can attain to that fact.

Shoot me an e-mail, PM or just call the shop for the most direct line of communication with myself and we'll get you set-up with what you really need!
Old 10-23-2012, 10:48 AM
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Just installed a Texas Speed 228r on a 110lsa in my basically stock 2000 camaro, wow after a solid week of dyno tuning (which wasnt fun) the car not only sounds amazing but has some great power , though the car does have a Monster Transmission with a 4000 stall and 4.10 gears, As for street driving manners its great.
Old 10-23-2012, 11:58 AM
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Anybody saying the torquer v2/v3 is not street friendly either has zero experience with the cams or they need to find a different tuner. I'm running the v3 on HP Tuners in the city with no problems..why leave any potential power on the table? And like dr_whigham said, with the proper set up and quality springs, you won't have to worry about going through springs.
Old 10-23-2012, 12:07 PM
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Check out comp cams xer273 cam...it's a 228/230 .58x lift on a 114 lsa with comp cams 918 springs...it's been a great street cam for me and sacrifices no low end power while still having good street manners and it revs up to 6700rpm...but you can't go wrong with the proven 228r either...
Old 10-23-2012, 01:27 PM
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i used to have the torquer v2 and it was very streetable, however it was a dog downlow with stock 3.42 gearing. It was in the car when i bought it, if you decide to go that route, get it advanced 4 degrees instead of the usual 112+2 texas speed sells it with.

My vote goes for a custom grind from Martin though

id suggest a 227/230 lsl/lxl 114+3.. might be a little more mild than you are thinking youre looking for but driveability would be second to none and have plenty of PTV clearance for heads down the line


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