Need Help Picking The Right Cam!!
#21
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For those of you picking the v3 over the v2 is that because you get a little more out of it in mid range? Which is more easily tuned? i dont know of any well known or reputable tuners in pa but then again i had no reason to until now...
What do you guys have to say about TICKS 231/238?? Keep in mind if need be I will have to use this car as a DD. I definitely want people to know there is a cam in it tho!Haha
What do you guys have to say about TICKS 231/238?? Keep in mind if need be I will have to use this car as a DD. I definitely want people to know there is a cam in it tho!Haha
#22
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Can these cams be used without changing rods, lifters, etc..? I'm going to get my heads milled to be safe, how much would you guys suggest for that? Or should I stick with a couple thousandths?
#24
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In order to do a cam swap the right way you need dual valve springs, push rods, ported oil pump, ls2 timing chain. I got the 228R cam. Its the biggest cam I would run in a street car. The car pulls everywhere and did not lose any torque down low while gaining great top end. I almost ran the Torquer v2 but I am happy with my choice because I know for a fact it would have been a little too much cam for my car.
#25
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In order to do a cam swap the right way you need dual valve springs, push rods, ported oil pump, ls2 timing chain. I got the 228R cam. Its the biggest cam I would run in a street car. The car pulls everywhere and did not lose any torque down low while gaining great top end. I almost ran the Torquer v2 but I am happy with my choice because I know for a fact it would have been a little too much cam for my car.
#27
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A one or two degree change in duration will do little to change drivability or the power curve.
Our cam kit comes with push rods, valve springs and the cam. We sell LS7 lifters for 134.99 which I would also suggest doing along with what MikeWs6 said about the LS2 timing chain and a new oil pump if the vehicle has over 50-60k miles, even then if the car is under that I recommend the timing chain at the least and the lifters with the cam package.
I did a 230/234 113+3 cam the other day in a bolt on C6 that picked up 53rwhp and 35rwtq. I would say the 231/238 would pick up slightly more rwhp and rwtq while carrying power a bit further to peak horsepower than the C6 cam did.
I can also do something custom for you that wouldn't leave you having to compromise with an off the shelf grind.
Our cam kit comes with push rods, valve springs and the cam. We sell LS7 lifters for 134.99 which I would also suggest doing along with what MikeWs6 said about the LS2 timing chain and a new oil pump if the vehicle has over 50-60k miles, even then if the car is under that I recommend the timing chain at the least and the lifters with the cam package.
I did a 230/234 113+3 cam the other day in a bolt on C6 that picked up 53rwhp and 35rwtq. I would say the 231/238 would pick up slightly more rwhp and rwtq while carrying power a bit further to peak horsepower than the C6 cam did.
I can also do something custom for you that wouldn't leave you having to compromise with an off the shelf grind.
#28
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God's honest truth OP, go with a custom grind. That's what I did. I got what I "needed" and not what I thought I needed.
Mine is a 229/236 .631.631 112+2
A 112 has that rumble you want **PLUS what 99Bluz28 says below my comment here**
http://youtu.be/5DWLWiLrjQU
Mine is a 229/236 .631.631 112+2
A 112 has that rumble you want **PLUS what 99Bluz28 says below my comment here**
http://youtu.be/5DWLWiLrjQU
Last edited by dr_whigham; 10-04-2012 at 05:01 PM.
#29
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Well, it's not the just the LSA that gives you that cam sound, it's a combination of the LSA and Duration of the intake and exhaust lobes, and also the idle speed and tune.
In your case with your 229/236 112lsa you have 8.5*of overlap. Now if you had a 228/228 cam you'd need to have right about a 110lsa to have about the same amount of overlap (228/228 110lsa ~ 8*overlap), but with a larger cam like a 236/240 a 115lsa would give you the same 8* of overlap.
In your case with your 229/236 112lsa you have 8.5*of overlap. Now if you had a 228/228 cam you'd need to have right about a 110lsa to have about the same amount of overlap (228/228 110lsa ~ 8*overlap), but with a larger cam like a 236/240 a 115lsa would give you the same 8* of overlap.
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#32
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A one or two degree change in duration will do little to change drivability or the power curve.
Our cam kit comes with push rods, valve springs and the cam. We sell LS7 lifters for 134.99 which I would also suggest doing along with what MikeWs6 said about the LS2 timing chain and a new oil pump if the vehicle has over 50-60k miles, even then if the car is under that I recommend the timing chain at the least and the lifters with the cam package.
I did a 230/234 113+3 cam the other day in a bolt on C6 that picked up 53rwhp and 35rwtq. I would say the 231/238 would pick up slightly more rwhp and rwtq while carrying power a bit further to peak horsepower than the C6 cam did.
I can also do something custom for you that wouldn't leave you having to compromise with an off the shelf grind.
Our cam kit comes with push rods, valve springs and the cam. We sell LS7 lifters for 134.99 which I would also suggest doing along with what MikeWs6 said about the LS2 timing chain and a new oil pump if the vehicle has over 50-60k miles, even then if the car is under that I recommend the timing chain at the least and the lifters with the cam package.
I did a 230/234 113+3 cam the other day in a bolt on C6 that picked up 53rwhp and 35rwtq. I would say the 231/238 would pick up slightly more rwhp and rwtq while carrying power a bit further to peak horsepower than the C6 cam did.
I can also do something custom for you that wouldn't leave you having to compromise with an off the shelf grind.
#33
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Pat G has his cams done with EPS. Comp does the grinding. Takes about 2 weeks.
Be honest about what you want, and you will get an excellent cam.
FWIW, custom cams are becomming more and more popular with all types of hot rodders. Easier than ever to grind em with modern equip.
Mine idles with a nice crackle. Drives nice. And scoots at the track. Just what I wanted.
Ron
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Pat G has his cams done with EPS. Comp does the grinding. Takes about 2 weeks.
Be honest about what you want, and you will get an excellent cam.
FWIW, custom cams are becomming more and more popular with all types of hot rodders. Easier than ever to grind em with modern equip.
Mine idles with a nice crackle. Drives nice. And scoots at the track. Just what I wanted.
Ron
#34
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God's honest truth OP, go with a custom grind. That's what I did. I got what I "needed" and not what I thought I needed.
Mine is a 229/236 .631.631 112+2
A 112 has that rumble you want **PLUS what 99Bluz28 says below my comment here**
http://youtu.be/5DWLWiLrjQU
Mine is a 229/236 .631.631 112+2
A 112 has that rumble you want **PLUS what 99Bluz28 says below my comment here**
http://youtu.be/5DWLWiLrjQU
#35
The Scammer Hammer
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Proper set-up yields longevity.
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#36
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Well, it's not the just the LSA that gives you that cam sound, it's a combination of the LSA and Duration of the intake and exhaust lobes, and also the idle speed and tune.
In your case with your 229/236 112lsa you have 8.5*of overlap. Now if you had a 228/228 cam you'd need to have right about a 110lsa to have about the same amount of overlap (228/228 110lsa ~ 8*overlap), but with a larger cam like a 236/240 a 115lsa would give you the same 8* of overlap.![Nod](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_nod.gif)
In your case with your 229/236 112lsa you have 8.5*of overlap. Now if you had a 228/228 cam you'd need to have right about a 110lsa to have about the same amount of overlap (228/228 110lsa ~ 8*overlap), but with a larger cam like a 236/240 a 115lsa would give you the same 8* of overlap.
![Nod](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_nod.gif)
I'd like to talk more about a custom grind. So many say its the way to go but idk what all that entails, that why I was just going to go with a shelf cam. I would like something a little bigger than the 228r but I guess I can really only go as big as what the car allows to run as smooth as possible. So lets try going that route to figure it out. Thanks!
Some people like yourself though as you said don't know what all it entails and feel like they will be getting in over there head with something of that nature and think that is too much trouble.
In all reality it's as easy as picking up the phone, giving me a call and simply discussing your exact wants for your vehicle. I'll take down as much information as I can attain from our conversation and then from there find the best possible combination of valve events, camshaft lobes and ultimately the finished profile of your custom cam.
I'm always bouncing around the boards while I'm at work and at home so I'm easily found and very attainable to talk to where as you'll find some of the other cam experts are reclusive and harder to contact. I guarantee you that you'll never have a hard time getting a hold of myself and my other customers can attain to that fact.
Shoot me an e-mail, PM or just call the shop for the most direct line of communication with myself and we'll get you set-up with what you really need!
#37
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Just installed a Texas Speed 228r on a 110lsa in my basically stock 2000 camaro, wow after a solid week of dyno tuning (which wasnt fun) the car not only sounds amazing but has some great power , though the car does have a Monster Transmission with a 4000 stall and 4.10 gears, As for street driving manners its great.
#38
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Anybody saying the torquer v2/v3 is not street friendly either has zero experience with the cams or they need to find a different tuner. I'm running the v3 on HP Tuners in the city with no problems..why leave any potential power on the table? And like dr_whigham said, with the proper set up and quality springs, you won't have to worry about going through springs.
#39
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Check out comp cams xer273 cam...it's a 228/230 .58x lift on a 114 lsa with comp cams 918 springs...it's been a great street cam for me and sacrifices no low end power while still having good street manners and it revs up to 6700rpm...but you can't go wrong with the proven 228r either...
#40
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i used to have the torquer v2 and it was very streetable, however it was a dog downlow with stock 3.42 gearing. It was in the car when i bought it, if you decide to go that route, get it advanced 4 degrees instead of the usual 112+2 texas speed sells it with.
My vote goes for a custom grind from Martin though
id suggest a 227/230 lsl/lxl 114+3.. might be a little more mild than you are thinking youre looking for but driveability would be second to none and have plenty of PTV clearance for heads down the line
My vote goes for a custom grind from Martin though
id suggest a 227/230 lsl/lxl 114+3.. might be a little more mild than you are thinking youre looking for but driveability would be second to none and have plenty of PTV clearance for heads down the line