First Oil Change since Cam Change = metal pieces :(
10-05-2012, 07:12 PM
#1
First Oil Change since Cam Change = metal pieces :( Long story short, I had installed a TR230 cam, pushrods, dual valvesprings, titanium retainers, ls6 oil pump, ls2 timing chain on my 1999 Z28.
After the first oil change since the swap, I found metal shavings on the drain plug magnet for the first ever time changing the oil.
I've always had loud lifters that I could hear once I did Long Tubes. Heads have never come off the car.
Otherwise it runs perfect before and after, with good oil pressure. No bad signs other than the metal shavings.
The photos are bad, sorry I only have a phone. First large chunk that came out :
And you can't tell because it's blurry, but there were long metal shavings on the tip of the drain plug. They were very thin, but about 1/4 inch in length. There was about 6 of them. And they were circular! So they are magnetic pieces that seem to broken apart that used to form a circle of some sort.
-----
Any ideas on what to do/look for next? Kinda worried here lol.
After the first oil change since the swap, I found metal shavings on the drain plug magnet for the first ever time changing the oil.
I've always had loud lifters that I could hear once I did Long Tubes. Heads have never come off the car.
Otherwise it runs perfect before and after, with good oil pressure. No bad signs other than the metal shavings.
The photos are bad, sorry I only have a phone. First large chunk that came out :
And you can't tell because it's blurry, but there were long metal shavings on the tip of the drain plug. They were very thin, but about 1/4 inch in length. There was about 6 of them. And they were circular! So they are magnetic pieces that seem to broken apart that used to form a circle of some sort.
-----
Any ideas on what to do/look for next? Kinda worried here lol.
Last edited by CranMaro99; 10-05-2012 at 09:07 PM.
10-05-2012, 09:08 PM
#5
It *could* be burrs that were on the edges of some of your new parts? I had some smaller chips that came from a tiny bit of interference between my YT rockers and the sheet metal baffles in my valve cover. I am not saying that is what you have here, my chips were tiny.
If you didn't inspect everything thoroughly before install, maybe that is all it is. I would consider running it for another 100 miles and see if you see any more pieces. But I don't claim to be any expert, just my thoughts.
If you didn't inspect everything thoroughly before install, maybe that is all it is. I would consider running it for another 100 miles and see if you see any more pieces. But I don't claim to be any expert, just my thoughts.
10-05-2012, 10:02 PM
#8
New does not mean without burrs though. It could just be from a burr in the pushrod tip or something. Many of the new parts in my build had burrs, most but not all were in aluminum.
Obviously you need to watch the oil pressure and everything else too. Good luck man, hopefully it's something like that.
Obviously you need to watch the oil pressure and everything else too. Good luck man, hopefully it's something like that.
10-05-2012, 10:51 PM
#10
10 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Cape Gir., MO
Posts: 426
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
it is recommended to use a very high zinc containing oil to help with the break in of the new cam. what oil did you go with and how long did you wait before changing it?
10-06-2012, 01:34 AM
#15
10 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Cape Gir., MO
Posts: 426
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Id maybe also ask them if they used lock tite on the cam bolts. seems a lot of people have an issue with cam bolts coming loose.
and for the cam break in, i would have used a heavier weight oil than 5w30. a synthetic oil isnt a good break in oil. i have always used valvoline vr1 20w50. it has a lot of zinc in it which is a good thing. and when i do a cam, i only run the oil for about an hour, then change the filter and oil, cut open the filter and inspect the contents of it, and inspect the oil with a very bright flashlight.
and to me, it does not look anything like needle bearings. they keep the round shape they normally have but may break into smaller peices. as mentioned above, id be getting ahold of the shop that did the work. tiny metal specs is one thing, but you have some good sized shavings that look scary to me.
and for the cam break in, i would have used a heavier weight oil than 5w30. a synthetic oil isnt a good break in oil. i have always used valvoline vr1 20w50. it has a lot of zinc in it which is a good thing. and when i do a cam, i only run the oil for about an hour, then change the filter and oil, cut open the filter and inspect the contents of it, and inspect the oil with a very bright flashlight.
and to me, it does not look anything like needle bearings. they keep the round shape they normally have but may break into smaller peices. as mentioned above, id be getting ahold of the shop that did the work. tiny metal specs is one thing, but you have some good sized shavings that look scary to me.
10-06-2012, 08:36 AM
#19
Did your purchase the cam new? I have seen a number of people who buy cams second hand that are "new" or "like new" that turn out to be low quality regrinds. They will punch through the ramp on the camshaft and leave flakes very similar to what is in the picture. You will get more valvetrain noise as well if this is the case. Typically sounds like the lifter chatter but amplified and will turn to what sounds like a rod knock when it finally starts to skid the roller on the lifter.
If no go on the above run the car for another few hundred miles and re inspect. Check the filter and magnetic plug. If you still have flakes it is time to dis assemble and find the problem. If no flakes I wouldn't loose sleep over it. It is not abnormal to have debris if the parts are not thoroughly cleaned.
If no go on the above run the car for another few hundred miles and re inspect. Check the filter and magnetic plug. If you still have flakes it is time to dis assemble and find the problem. If no flakes I wouldn't loose sleep over it. It is not abnormal to have debris if the parts are not thoroughly cleaned.
10-06-2012, 08:49 AM
#20
Did you center the oil pump on the crank by either disassembling and using feeler gauges, or leaving it slightly loose and rolling the crank 2-3 full rotations? If not, chances are you're off and the eccentric gear is grinding the housing.