LQ4 quick build questions
LQ4 quick build questions First the setup:
Engine: 2004 Lq4 from a GMC Savana, still has the crosshatch (lucked out)
Transmission: 4l60e from an 02 Camaro
Rear: 98-02 Fbody 10 bolt (hasn't been acquired yet)
Car: 1988 Camaro Convertible SC
How I plan on using the car: "daily driver", which means back and forth to dialysis four days a week and weekend use. No track times. I need to pass California smog, for a "02 Camaro" and would like to get (relatively) good gas mileage, which I know will come down to pedal and tune. I would however like it to sound/feel like its got a "lil" something, but not too heavy a lope.
The original plan was to go with an LS3 top end, but, like many things in life, its amazing how much the auxiliary costs of doing something adds up.
So now I'm going to build the LQ4, get the car running, then save up, again and then do a stroker sometime in the future when it needs a rebuild. My plan is to get a Serdi Valve job, install appropriate springs and slightly mill the heads to get the compression up to about 10.25, as we only have 91 out here. I am most likely going to run a stock LS1 or LS6 intake. I will also have a custom tune.
My question is basically what cam would allow me to do the above without having to also do anything radical to the transmission. The suggestion on the cam guide posted above, suggested the TR224, but I'm ok with going more aggressive, as long as I don't have to add another $800 into a TQ and a $2200 transmission
Lastly, what kind of RWHP would I be looking at?
Engine: 2004 Lq4 from a GMC Savana, still has the crosshatch (lucked out)
Transmission: 4l60e from an 02 Camaro
Rear: 98-02 Fbody 10 bolt (hasn't been acquired yet)
Car: 1988 Camaro Convertible SC
How I plan on using the car: "daily driver", which means back and forth to dialysis four days a week and weekend use. No track times. I need to pass California smog, for a "02 Camaro" and would like to get (relatively) good gas mileage, which I know will come down to pedal and tune. I would however like it to sound/feel like its got a "lil" something, but not too heavy a lope.
The original plan was to go with an LS3 top end, but, like many things in life, its amazing how much the auxiliary costs of doing something adds up.
So now I'm going to build the LQ4, get the car running, then save up, again and then do a stroker sometime in the future when it needs a rebuild. My plan is to get a Serdi Valve job, install appropriate springs and slightly mill the heads to get the compression up to about 10.25, as we only have 91 out here. I am most likely going to run a stock LS1 or LS6 intake. I will also have a custom tune.
My question is basically what cam would allow me to do the above without having to also do anything radical to the transmission. The suggestion on the cam guide posted above, suggested the TR224, but I'm ok with going more aggressive, as long as I don't have to add another $800 into a TQ and a $2200 transmission
Lastly, what kind of RWHP would I be looking at?
Compression ratio is your friend for a healthy yet fuel efficient engine. Plan
on milling them 317s about .030" and possibly using thinner than stock head
gaskets...Cometic .040-.045 are commonly used. If you can get it to 10.25
and find an LS6 intake it would work well with that TR224 cam and also pass
the sniffer test if the lobe separation is wider like 114 or 116 degrees. It also
seems that you are not wanting a higher stall converter ??? If thats true then
perhaps a bit smaller like Comp Cams 212/218 or an EPS 218/222. Most will
say to not cam it at all if using the stock converter but you don't seem to
want a stoplight brawler but rather something that sounds nice, runs well, and
gets decent mileage. Other things to get are new head bolts, oil pump and O-
ring, LS2 chain (uses the original gears) and the correct length push rods.
Dynos can vary a bit depending on brand and correction factor, however I'd
suspect you should be around 370 rear wheel horse power.
on milling them 317s about .030" and possibly using thinner than stock head
gaskets...Cometic .040-.045 are commonly used. If you can get it to 10.25
and find an LS6 intake it would work well with that TR224 cam and also pass
the sniffer test if the lobe separation is wider like 114 or 116 degrees. It also
seems that you are not wanting a higher stall converter ??? If thats true then
perhaps a bit smaller like Comp Cams 212/218 or an EPS 218/222. Most will
say to not cam it at all if using the stock converter but you don't seem to
want a stoplight brawler but rather something that sounds nice, runs well, and
gets decent mileage. Other things to get are new head bolts, oil pump and O-
ring, LS2 chain (uses the original gears) and the correct length push rods.
Dynos can vary a bit depending on brand and correction factor, however I'd
suspect you should be around 370 rear wheel horse power.
Compression ratio is your friend for a healthy yet fuel efficient engine. Plan
on milling them 317s about .030" and possibly using thinner than stock head
gaskets...Cometic .040-.045 are commonly used. If you can get it to 10.25
and find an LS6 intake it would work well with that TR224 cam and also pass
the sniffer test if the lobe separation is wider like 114 or 116 degrees. It also
seems that you are not wanting a higher stall converter ??? If thats true then
perhaps a bit smaller like Comp Cams 212/218 or an EPS 218/222. Most will
say to not cam it at all if using the stock converter but you don't seem to
want a stoplight brawler but rather something that sounds nice, runs well, and
gets decent mileage. Other things to get are new head bolts, oil pump and O-
ring, LS2 chain (uses the original gears) and the correct length push rods.
Dynos can vary a bit depending on brand and correction factor, however I'd
suspect you should be around 370 rear wheel horse power.
on milling them 317s about .030" and possibly using thinner than stock head
gaskets...Cometic .040-.045 are commonly used. If you can get it to 10.25
and find an LS6 intake it would work well with that TR224 cam and also pass
the sniffer test if the lobe separation is wider like 114 or 116 degrees. It also
seems that you are not wanting a higher stall converter ??? If thats true then
perhaps a bit smaller like Comp Cams 212/218 or an EPS 218/222. Most will
say to not cam it at all if using the stock converter but you don't seem to
want a stoplight brawler but rather something that sounds nice, runs well, and
gets decent mileage. Other things to get are new head bolts, oil pump and O-
ring, LS2 chain (uses the original gears) and the correct length push rods.
Dynos can vary a bit depending on brand and correction factor, however I'd
suspect you should be around 370 rear wheel horse power.
I am running ARP head bolts, New LS6 pump, LS2 chain, LS7 lifters and will measure the push rods once I get the heads back and together. At what point does the 4l60 stop being able to be reliable, saying using a new TQ, in semi stock formation?
Mine is an M6 but from what I understand you can just swap the new torque
converter in and at your approximate power level you should be fine. I think
your tuner can also manipulate the transmission line pressure as well as the
shift points to optimize it for your combo.
Also if you do a stall then I'd for sure step the cam up to either a Texas
Speed 228 or an EPS 226/230
converter in and at your approximate power level you should be fine. I think
your tuner can also manipulate the transmission line pressure as well as the
shift points to optimize it for your combo.
Also if you do a stall then I'd for sure step the cam up to either a Texas
Speed 228 or an EPS 226/230
