shortblock assembly questions
shortblock assembly questions Hey guys, I have an LS1/LS6 book, (shown here)
Well from pages 104-118 it shows how the guys at W2W assemble the shortblock. Well during the process it shows them using an aluminum rod clamp to get the correct rod bearing clearance. And then on page 109 it explains the torquing sequence for the main caps & says you need to add 80* & 53* of torque angle and then torque to such and such lbs.
My question is... is it absolutely necessary to have a rod clamp? and is it absolutely necessary to add the different angles of torque during the sequence of the main caps? My torque wrench does not have the option of adding angles etc..
Someone please let me know. I am wanting to assemble my shortblock myself and have done so on various different old school sbc in the past but never did it in this fashion & just want to make sure everything is done right.
thanks in advance
Well from pages 104-118 it shows how the guys at W2W assemble the shortblock. Well during the process it shows them using an aluminum rod clamp to get the correct rod bearing clearance. And then on page 109 it explains the torquing sequence for the main caps & says you need to add 80* & 53* of torque angle and then torque to such and such lbs.
My question is... is it absolutely necessary to have a rod clamp? and is it absolutely necessary to add the different angles of torque during the sequence of the main caps? My torque wrench does not have the option of adding angles etc..
Someone please let me know. I am wanting to assemble my shortblock myself and have done so on various different old school sbc in the past but never did it in this fashion & just want to make sure everything is done right.
thanks in advance
Wait...I think I might have misunderstood what they meant. Someone clear this up also please.. I was thinking that you would have to actually raise the handle of the torque wrench, like if they said 60 degree of angle, you would have to raise the handle to be in a position like this / instead of flat __ .
Are the meaning to actually turn the wrench(being flat and not angled) clockwise 60 degrees?
Sorry for the confusion but I think I mightve misunderstood. Please clear this up.
Are the meaning to actually turn the wrench(being flat and not angled) clockwise 60 degrees?
Sorry for the confusion but I think I mightve misunderstood. Please clear this up.
Lol yeah you turn it 60degrees. Just think of the bolt as a clock. If it says 90degress then the would be at 3o clock. Draw a verticak line on the bolt. It makes it easier
Or just get ARP bolts that dont have that angle BS
Or just get ARP bolts that dont have that angle BS
Haha thanks for clearing that up man. Dont ask me why I thought you would angle the handle lol. Do you know if the Katech bolts need the angle? Was thinking of using them.
Also I came across this vid while searching for LS1 shortblock assembly Does it look to be legit? are they doing it right & would it be okay to follow what they do?
Also I came across this vid while searching for LS1 shortblock assembly
any input on the vid I posted in post #6? Are they pretty accurate in how the set up the shortblock?
Also, where can I get a deep throat harmonic balancer puller? I cannot for the life of me find any parts store that has one. Oreilleys, Bumper 2 Bumper, Autozone. None of the ones local to me had one.
Also, where can I get a deep throat harmonic balancer puller? I cannot for the life of me find any parts store that has one. Oreilleys, Bumper 2 Bumper, Autozone. None of the ones local to me had one.
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DO NOT run arp main bolts or studs without line honing or at least checking the saddle tolerances.........im one that wonnt just swap out rod bolts for this reason either but to each his own......the mains torq them to the angle but ive seen about 55ftlbs does it on the centers with 50wt oil as a lubricant.......the rod bolts the katechs are ok i suppose but im not in favor of the "just swap in the arp it will be fine" method...
I work with Kurt (former director at W2W). Our method varies a little based on the rod. For instance on a Compstar we can usually attain the correct stretch and clearance by inserting the bearing, then torquing both bolts to 20lbft, then turn each bolt another 50 degrees.
I work with Kurt (former director at W2W). Our method varies a little based on the rod. For instance on a Compstar we can usually attain the correct stretch and clearance by inserting the bearing, then torquing both bolts to 20lbft, then turn each bolt another 50 degrees.
Any advice/recommendations you would like to add? Ill take any advice I can get.
What are you thoughts on the ARP & Katech rod bolts? And the ARP main bolts as well. Should I have the rods resized & use the ARP rod bolts or just throw in the Katech rod bolts? Katech claims that no resizing is needed with their rod bolts. What do you think?
Again thanks for posting.
