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Old Oct 27, 2012 | 09:42 PM
  #21  
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550 might be tough on a 383 but you will get close without boost. I'd go with a flat top piston and work the compression with the chamber, cam and gaskets.
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Old Oct 27, 2012 | 09:56 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by MMMichael
P.S. I'm internet "window shopping" right now and I'm not exactly sure where to go.. TSP has rotating assemblies for roughly 2k but then another $300 to balance it? Why wouldn't I just go with the Callies rotating assembly and have it come already balanced and ready to go with (my opinion) are superior parts. Any thoughts on this?
Thanks!
You ALWAYS want to have parts balanced by a machine shop that you trust AS AN ASSEMBLY. My machinist is very finicky/picky in general, but particularly in regards to balancing. I suggest buying all the parts that you want in "un-balanced" form, then have it all done at once by a shop that is going to do it right for you.

Originally Posted by MMMichael
I don't want to focus too much on boost right now, I just want to leave all my doors open for later down the road. I assume that building a 383 would have enough power for a daily driver.

That being said, what kind of numbers are most people putting down? I'm hoping for mid-500's? Is that crazy?
I'm currently building a 383, and will be shooting for 550 rwhp(through a M6) in a daily-driveable car. Head choice will be probably the single most important part of the equation for you. Start with a good set of heads, then finish out your build from there.....if that makes sense. You want to plan as much of it out on paper first as possible....then buy parts.

Last edited by salemetro; Oct 27, 2012 at 10:03 PM.
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Old Oct 28, 2012 | 05:46 AM
  #23  
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550 street whp will require more cubes than 383 NA. Piston bore size is the determining factor. My advice is keep it real.
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Old Oct 28, 2012 | 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by salemetro
You ALWAYS want to have parts balanced by a machine shop that you trust AS AN ASSEMBLY. My machinist is very finicky/picky in general, but particularly in regards to balancing. I suggest buying all the parts that you want in "un-balanced" form, then have it all done at once by a shop that is going to do it right for you.



I'm currently building a 383, and will be shooting for 550 rwhp(through a M6) in a daily-driveable car. Head choice will be probably the single most important part of the equation for you. Start with a good set of heads, then finish out your build from there.....if that makes sense. You want to plan as much of it out on paper first as possible....then buy parts.
Ahh.. that makes sense to have it balanced by a machine shop. That's cool then because that sounds like less money. About how much is it to have a good machine shop balance a rotating assembly for you? As i'm assuming the block will be there anyway getting clearenced.

What heads were you thinking about running or your build? I've been looking into the PRC 227cc? Is this not enough/overkill? Or all around the wrong head?
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Old Oct 28, 2012 | 12:29 PM
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Like already said, build for boost or build for N/A. If you were dead set on boost later, you could build for that and you just wouldnt have an optimum N/A setup for the time being, but it would still be a decent ride.

Your rwhp goals, for what you want the car to be (true street driver) are unrealistic. 550rwhp isnt obtained by most people with 40x CI setups that are more aggressive combos than what your wanting your car to be, let alone a 383 CI. Yeah, there are some people with cars laying down some great numbers, but it's not an everyday thing, and wouldnt be the type of setup your imagining.

Since you are so new to pretty much all of this, I'd suggest educating yourself through as many hours a day of reading on this forum as possible, contacting some reputable sponsors about your budget, intentions, and goals for the car, listen to the experienced and seasoned members on here that are willing to steer you right, and then see how your outlook on it is afterwards.
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Old Oct 28, 2012 | 01:21 PM
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Quick question here...is there a difference in the build of the piston (domed vs flat) in terms of efficiency given that the overall SCR and DCR is the same?

For example, is there a difference between a build with domed pistons and big chamber heads for say 12.1 SCR vs. a build with flat top pistons and small chamber heads for the same 12.1 SCR?
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Old Oct 28, 2012 | 02:45 PM
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Yes, domed would be more prone to detonnation and unneven burn. Flattops are better at propagating the flame.
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Old Oct 28, 2012 | 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
550 street whp will require more cubes than 383 NA. Piston bore size is the determining factor. My advice is keep it real.
Agreed. But like I said, it's the goal that we're trying to reach....we'll see how close it gets. 500 should be no problem....anything more than that is just icing on the cake.
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Old Oct 28, 2012 | 03:28 PM
  #29  
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How about option C.

Slap a set of 243 heads and cam on your stock long block and if you're itching for more power, feed it with a bottle.

While you're having fun and saving money, get a short block, 5.3 liter or 408 and build it for boost.
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Old Oct 28, 2012 | 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by bene
How about option C.

Slap a set of 243 heads and cam on your stock long block and if you're itching for more power, feed it with a bottle.

While you're having fun and saving money, get a short block, 5.3 liter or 408 and build it for boost.
Not a bad idea....except that from the sounds of it the OP's current engine is about tired out.
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Old Oct 28, 2012 | 03:58 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by salemetro
Not a bad idea....except that from the sounds of it the OP's current engine is about tired out.
IMO, it's the most realistic way to do with a budget. If motor is tired out, just get a used short block with less miles and build it.
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Old Oct 28, 2012 | 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by bene
How about option C.

Slap a set of 243 heads and cam on your stock long block and if you're itching for more power, feed it with a bottle.

While you're having fun and saving money, get a short block, 5.3 liter or 408 and build it for boost.
I like your thinking. Building a motor is never good with a budget.

Let's be honest, Is the extra 4-5k in building a motor for an "unrealistic" 550 horse even worth it? I could get a 450 rwhp with cam/heads and full bolt ons and slap a 150 shot on it and be at 550rwhp all for about 2.5k? Right? If i'm thinking correct then I don't see why anyone ever goes 383.

That being said, It would be sweet to get a bigger ci. motor. But if I'm going to spend the money I think I'd rather build bigger (because it's always better) in the future and just get a custom ground cam and P&P heads for the time being. Then slap some nitrous on it, or maybe even throw a small amount of boost.

This site is such a love/hate relationship. Everytime I log in I get a different idea on something that I could do. That's good and bad I suppose and I guess that means I'm always thinking. Haha!

Thanks alot you guys or the great info and support!
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Old Oct 28, 2012 | 04:21 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by MMMichael
I like your thinking. Building a motor is never good with a budget.

Let's be honest, Is the extra 4-5k in building a motor for an "unrealistic" 550 horse even worth it? I could get a 450 rwhp with cam/heads and full bolt ons and slap a 150 shot on it and be at 550rwhp all for about 2.5k? Right? If i'm thinking correct then I don't see why anyone ever goes 383.

That being said, It would be sweet to get a bigger ci. motor. But if I'm going to spend the money I think I'd rather build bigger (because it's always better) in the future and just get a custom ground cam and P&P heads for the time being. Then slap some nitrous on it, or maybe even throw a small amount of boost.

This site is such a love/hate relationship. Everytime I log in I get a different idea on something that I could do. That's good and bad I suppose and I guess that means I'm always thinking. Haha!

Thanks alot you guys or the great info and support!

It is going to take alot more that 4-5K to build a 500+wrhp N/A motor. Not sure if i misread it, just wanted to warn you.
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Old Oct 29, 2012 | 04:00 AM
  #34  
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I think your criteria, power goals are unrealistic. I would reevaluate.
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Old Oct 29, 2012 | 04:07 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
I think your criteria, power goals are unrealistic. I would reevaluate.
I agree. 550 will be more than anyone will ever need on the street. 450 ish would be a good number to shoot for on a street strip car.
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Old Oct 29, 2012 | 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by bww3588
I agree. 550 will be more than anyone will ever need on the street. 450 ish would be a good number to shoot for on a street strip car.
Might want to drop on over to the Corvette forums and check out the boost section. Those guys think 900whp isn't enough......

For the op, if you are going to consider boost in the future, you can build the short block with both in mind. Even the cam. What you would change for boost is heads with larger chambers. Gets expensive this way, but that is how to do it.

Unless you spray it. Then just build for NA and be happy.

I don't know about all this RWHP stuff. Too many diff results from too many diff types of dynos. I'm faster in the 1/4 mile than cars with a claimed 520 RWHP, and I know my NA 346 is no where close to that.

There are a lot of combos on this site that run hard with simple parts, check them out. Predator Z is an excellent example. You aren't going to re-invent the wheel here,stick to proven stuff.
I personally think the 383 approach is an excellent idea.

Ron
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Old Oct 29, 2012 | 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by RonSSNova
Might want to drop on over to the Corvette forums and check out the boost section. Those guys think 900whp isn't enough......


Ron
Which is why I stay away from cf...the sad part is, as if the Corvette alone is not enough of "look what I got" kind of deal, it's gotta have 1k at the wheels. 600 of which will never make it to the ground.
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Old Oct 29, 2012 | 11:39 AM
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I bought my Corvette because it was $10k, and because I wanted to learn the LS engine, and because I wanted to drag race it. 50 passes this summer.
I am a car guy who happens to have a Corvette sir. Please don't lump me in with the "look what I got" crowd.
The only person who turned the wrenches on my car was me.

Ron
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Old Oct 29, 2012 | 04:21 PM
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I'm not quite sure where to go with this one but I don't think 550 is unrealistic, difficult yes, but unrealistic, no. If I can get 450 out a cam/heads/intake stock bottom end car, why in the world wouldn't I be able to get 100 more horse out of a BIGGER motor?

Dollar per horsepower this is stupid, But if that were the way of thinking I'm sure everyone would use nitrous.

That being said I think I'll stay out of this one and do a H/C/I and throw a shot or some boost to it later. I don't NEED 550 rwhp, but I also don't need a v8, and I can walk so I don't even NEED a car...just kidding. Let's not blow that out of proportion.

But in reality I think a 500 give or take street car is ideal for ME. Whether it is "unrealistic" or not..So how should I get there LS1tech?
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Old Oct 29, 2012 | 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by RonSSNova
I bought my Corvette because it was $10k, and because I wanted to learn the LS engine, and because I wanted to drag race it. 50 passes this summer.
I am a car guy who happens to have a Corvette sir. Please don't lump me in with the "look what I got" crowd.
The only person who turned the wrenches on my car was me.

Ron
Bullshit. You had your car built and It's a cover up for a small....well you know...



No seriously kidding. I didn't mean you in any way. I know you know your stuff. My reference was toward the crowd over at cf. They seem to all be the type that need the Corvette to make up for their personal short comings. Which is probably why the thread "how do I change my oil" comes up daily over there. Camaro5 is following that same path.

Sorry, didn't mean to offend you man
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