RezinTexas

+1 for Blackstone

Camaroo1

I had much less than this in the oil and within 100 miles the engine was knocking badly. Anytime you see metal in the oil its a crap shoot at best. I wouldn't drive it hard and be sure if it starts knocking or making noise stop running it.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

I think we all wish you the best of luck but this is going to be a gamble every time you turn the key. If you want to try and run it I would still be working on a replacement. Maybe Murphy's law will work in your favor then.

Cwarta

iTrader: (12)

What lifters did you have that failed like that?

therabidweasel

iTrader: (5)

Early production run of short travel solid roller bearing lifters from Johnson. New lifters are the same, but with needle bearing rollers..got about 1200 miles on them and they have been great...Johnson stood by the product and have kept me in the loop...the best you can hope for imo.

This motor has 1200 miles on it since the failure including 2 days of dyno pulls, so im not being easy on it at all. Just changing the oil very often.

Heres a link to the 7k dyno pulls:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...529&styleid=25

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

i have a FILTER MAG........damm that thing really WORKS !!!!

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Works well for magnetic materials but there is a lot of non-magnetic stuff in an engine.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

thats what the filter is for

therabidweasel

iTrader: (5)

I've got another 550 miles on her. I'm about to go to the dyno (why will be in my build and dyno threads soon) but I went ahead and switched to VR1 racing oil (which is BLUE btw) that I got on clearance at the local advance. I know its only good for 500 miles, but why not? Cheaper than the T6 for these 6 quarts, which will be changed in 500 miles anyway.

The metal in the filter is now tiny dust that pretty much just stay in suspension, but there was a disturbing amount of it this time. The plug again had some chips on it. . .sorry for the mess in the pictures.

I have plans for running a UOA on it, which I have done periodically since I bought this car in '01, but with visible metal still in there I don't think it's time yet.

Lets hope it live through another tune. . .

therabidweasel

iTrader: (5)

Alright, another ~350 miles including 20ish ~7krpm dyno pulls for the Meth tuning. As mentioned above, this time I'm using 10W-30 Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil (the blue stuff with no detergents). Less metal on the plug now, approaching normalish but still plenty of metal in the filter. This time I'm posting a video of me pouring out the filter after I've cut it open. Believe it or not this is substantially less metal than last time, but it still seems like way too much.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

I would like to thank you for documenting all this after deciding to take this gamble. Most of us would have torn it down. IMO you will still have to fix it but it is interesting to see how things are going in the meantime.

therabidweasel

iTrader: (5)

Well, not a gamble really. If it dies it will come back as a bored LS3 or truck block and maybe go FI. If it lives long enough I may get enough saved to get really stupid. F1X stupid.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

When an engine frags there is always some risk you walk away with nothing but an intake manifold and scrap metal. Hence the gamble.

therabidweasel

iTrader: (5)

A valid point that does not meet my definition of a gamble. I dont play with anything that I cant lose, but I take ypur point and appreciate your encouragement.

therabidweasel

iTrader: (5)

Another 500ish more miles, so right around 2500 miles since the failure. Last night I threw P0335 and it started running like crap, valve train sounds terrible and the exhaust smells like raw gas. I went ahead and replaced the crankshaft position sensor (which was the code) but I need to find a place to do a CASE/crank position relearn for me. Hopefully that is the source of the valvetrain noise etc, because if it isn't it sounds like the motor may be done. Anyway, here's the plug and a video of me dumping the filter. . .So many oil changes later with still this much metal makes me think I need to stop thinking about a new block and actually start looking for one. I hope I'm wrong.

ckpitt55

iTrader: (4)

that's a lot of metal my friend.

might be time to let tony build you a 454.

68 SS

iTrader: (23)

Man I would have had that motor on the stand swapping bearings when the lifter let go maybe too late now but it is just a matter of time before it lets go.

ldyzluvdis06

iTrader: (24)

what are you using to cut the filter? are you sure you aren't getting more metal in filter while cutting it? granted, i know there is some metal in the oil due to magnetic plug.

i have the same issue, i have some metal on my plug when i change the oil, and i just change it frequently. i can't see actual metal in my oil as you can in yours though, but i have never cut the filter (don't know what to use)

AutomagicLS1

iTrader: (18)

the oil looks bad but you need to cut the filter element open and it doesn't appear you have done this in that picture. when you remove the actual filter and pull it apart and lay it across a table you will find the real bad stuff

therabidweasel

iTrader: (5)

Chuck, I've begun planning a GTR build with something de-stroked, solid-roller, and dry sumped, probably built by Tony. But for this car I may just buy a Thompson short block and call it a day.

Hey Chuck, question for you: Is the crank reluctor magnetic? Would it pick up a bunch of the steel too? The reason I ask is because my crank sensor suddenly failed and I was thinking that could be a cause.

I'm still hoping the metal is the remnant of the bronze lifter roller that got chewed up in the failure. To cut the filter I used the Jegs tool: http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performan...53437/10002/-1



Good idea, I'll take a look. I still have the last several filters in a bucket. As I think you can see in the video the filter isn't packed with a bunch of flakes like you see sometimes.