C4 LS1

Thanks guys for the posts. I will not get a chance to do more troubleshooting until this weekend but I intend to do all of what you guys are saying. So far I have checked all the grounds that need to be connected and they are. I have even attached a ground straight from the neg side of the battery to the cylinder heads to see if it was a bad block ground. I have checked to have good fuel pressure at around 56 psi and I have removed the fuel rail just enough while cranking to watch each injector fire. I am again going to go back through and make sure nothing was missed ground wise and clean up the battery to engine ground as there is just a little paint over spray on the connection. I will check the voltage of the coil to make sure I am getting the signal I should be but since it is firing already I don't suspect that the wiring is wrong. I have a friend with a 00' T.A WS6 that said if I do the work I can take his coils and fuel injectors just to test and make sure my equipment is good. (great friend to let me do that by the way) As for the crank sensor, as to my knowledge if the sensor is bad it will only cause a no spark condition but if I am wrong someone let me know.
Thanks for all the replies guys, I will keep everyone updated and always welcome more input!

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

Did you check the first step I posted? That wire needs to be hot not only with Ingition on, BUT HOT while cranking....

C4 LS1

Ya that wire is hot at all times. The easy way to tell is if the check engine light stays on when the key is turned to on and stays on while cranking. That's telling me the relay has not lost 12v plus I checked it with my multimeter.

chrisfrost

iTrader: (8)

OP You stated that You'd check the grounds tomorrow and add some more if needed . I just want to point out that adding grounds does'nt necessarily mean that it will fix a ground problem ,,,,,,in other words all the grounds need to be clean and tight ,,,,,,,,,,often times I will install a larger ground bolt to help with the "tight" part of the equation for longevity/integrity ,,,,,good luck .
Yes also if You've changed the crank position sensor You most likely will need a crank relearn procedure done

C4 LS1

So I figured it out...
I kinda feel like a dumb*** but it turned out that the coil wires on the number 2 and 4, and 3 and 5 were wired backwards when I did the engine harness build. The way I found out was that I took my coils to my friends trans am and compared the two. It just seems weird to me that it would not start at all instead of just running like crap. Well thank you everyone for all the help and pictures!

kossuth

iTrader: (12)

Good to hear you got it running. As for why it didnt fire off on the 4 that you had wired right, who knows?

LSCha0s

iTrader: (4)

LOL its not a 4 banger.. I suspect with it wired backwars the driver for that back may not work...Just a guess??

Dont feel dumb I left the nipple under the MAP sensor disconnected and had a massive vac leak.
Congrats to another C4 swaper!! post up a video. Are you a CF memeber...
Joing the discussion? http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-g...lsx-swaps.html

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

I thought you had a PSI harness? How in the world would you have wired them backwards? The PSI harness is plug and play....

C4 LS1

The PSI harness was wired right it was the coil harness ( the one actually attached to the coils) that I wired backwards. I had that small harness deppined and just repinned with those wires interchanged. But ya I am on the corvette forum as chad30021, I need to go update my ls swap thread and put some pics up on the c4 lsx thread! I have been putting off updating because I have not had the time I wanted to work on it recently.

Claydos

hey guy's,

First off sorry for bringing an old thread up but it has some pertinent info.

Ok so intro is I have a 2000 model Holden Commodore LS1 in my 97 Nissan Patrol (Nissan equivalent of Land Cruiser)

So the engine was running, but it got worse and worse, it was a poor conversion that I am trying to fix.

I've replaced knock sensors (had a code) and my o2 sensors. As it warms up and gets worse, it runs like it's got water in the spark plug leads.

I have had an ELM327 connected to it and it's not throwing any codes.

I decided to check the wiring, everything is tracing out fine, I'm getting low ohm values. I.E. .1 ohms. But on the earth pins I am getting 20 ohms to the earth points on the head and 40 ohms between the earth pins and the battery.

Is this normal? it seams incredibly high.

thanks heaps!!!