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Thinking of going 383. What gains should be seen?

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Old 12-21-2012, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by RonSSNova
Thanks for the info.
Hmm, I'm wondering if those heads are maybe too big?
Cam sounds excellent to me....would run nice in my car.
Maybe the old drag racers were referring to crank hp? BTW....I'm an old drag racer.

So, those heads just might really like to be on a 383, with a bigger cam with more exh duration.

Maybe you said, but where do you shift?

BTW, I've not been on a dyno either. In the spring I hope.
The heads were on a 383 when I bought them. I love the cam I have, just if going 383 I would like to go custom grind. I'd like to have more torque, or have the torque curve come in sooner in the rpms. I shift at 6500. I put a link up of a pass. As the old racers, I never asked if it was a guess at crank hp or rwhp.
Old 12-21-2012, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by garygnu
his heads aren't too big.
Those valves may be a bit big for the stock bore.
Old 12-21-2012, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by mypoorLS1
Those valves may be a bit big for the stock bore.
If that was the case it wouldn't be running...
Old 12-22-2012, 05:09 AM
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depending on your situation and what components you already own, a 400+ cubic inch stroker does not actually cost too much more, if you don't mind going iron block.

If you already have an LS1 block in good condition and you want to stay with aluminum, then you will save the price of an LS2 block (I don't know how much that costs, I'd guess around $1k).

That being said my 383 in a ~6000lb truck with 33" tires has crazy torque down low and jumps off the line really strong for such a big vehicle. Of course more cubes is always better, but I'm happy with my choice.
Old 12-22-2012, 06:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike94ZLT1
How do you figure a 382 costs less when you have to purchase a new block to get anything with a 4"+ bore?
382?

Sell the LS1.
Buy a built shortblock with no core.
Save money.
Make more power.
Old 12-22-2012, 07:00 AM
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I think you may have a little more et in your setup, some cars run 11.9 with boltons but and 3.23 gears. My car ran 12.28 with boltons (DA 1800 FT), making 320 rwhp. Check out my sig. I have not ran the car yet but I am expecting 11.4's. My car should have 400-420 rwhp. There are cars on ls1 in VA that make 425 rwhp that run 11.2's. You may have too low of a gear but I don't know for sure. I watched your vedio clip and your car runs and sounds good.
Old 12-23-2012, 01:40 PM
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Before I put the dart heads and fast 90 on, I was running 12.25. I wont sell the motor I have now. I do know where I can get a 5.3 and 6.0. So I have been thinking of going 6.0 with a 421ci stroker kit from tsp.

I run a 4.11 gear. When I had the 9in built, I went with a 3.89 gear and the car just felt so sloppy. I have a 4.33 gear and 5.13 just need another third member I plan on using them for 1/8 races toward the end of the year. I bought the 5.13 and 4.33 at the halloween classic for $20 each used no signs of wear. Just bought them for the hell of it, I could not pass up pro gears for that price even if they just sit in my shed for 10 years.

Last edited by rob scott; 12-23-2012 at 01:50 PM.
Old 12-23-2012, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 87DodgeD150
I've heard a few people talk about 383's and the engine geometry. Something about they don't run as hard as they should. I was always recommended to do a 370 or go larger than the 383.

Has anyone else heard of this?
Well, if you heard it then it must be true.....right? Don't believe it to be true every time, the extra 37 c.i. will at the very least give at min. 37 extra HP. over a 346. The 383's extra stroke should alone help your torque curve, create more column velocity in your intake and heads, make an overly aggressive cam more tune friendly and improve drivability as long as it is built correctly. It's easier to get 500 Rwhp with a 383. extra cubes in any bore stroke combo makes it easier.
Old 12-23-2012, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Marc 85Z28
382?

Sell the LS1.
Buy a built shortblock with no core.
Save money.
Make more power.
If you do the math a 3.903"(.005" over) bore is 382.86ci and a 3.905"(.007 over") is a 383.25ci. Just depends on if you want to round up or not. :-p

I too have been considering a 383. An iron block is simply not an option. You just don't put a 100+ heavier boat anchor in the front of an RX-7(unless drag queen). So going to an LS3 block build is a LOT more money than a 383. Sure it would make more power but I don't consider the extra cost worth it.
Old 12-23-2012, 05:07 PM
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some people fear a bad rod to stroke ratio ,check out some IHRA mountain motors.I have the $$$ for a ls2 based motor ,but I don't want to go 11.5 or faster.
Old 12-23-2012, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Exidous
I too have been considering a 383. An iron block is simply not an option. You just don't put a 100+ heavier boat anchor in the front of an RX-7(unless drag queen). So going to an LS3 block build is a LOT more money than a 383. Sure it would make more power but I don't consider the extra cost worth it.
I would do the same thing in anything other than a truck or a drag car.
Old 12-23-2012, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 64post
Well, if you heard it then it must be true.....right? Don't believe it to be true every time, the extra 37 c.i. will at the very least give at min. 37 extra HP. over a 346. The 383's extra stroke should alone help your torque curve, create more column velocity in your intake and heads, make an overly aggressive cam more tune friendly and improve drivability as long as it is built correctly. It's easier to get 500 Rwhp with a 383. extra cubes in any bore stroke combo makes it easier.
I agree, the extra cubes are worth it, but only if they can be adequately taken advantage of. Putting the same heads and cam on a larger engine will net minimal gains, but fine tuning the heads and increasing duration will make the extra displacement worth it.
Old 12-23-2012, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Exidous
If you do the math a 3.903"(.005" over) bore is 382.86ci and a 3.905"(.007 over") is a 383.25ci. Just depends on if you want to round up or not.
I know what a 382 is. What does it have to do with a 4" bore block?



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