LS Engine Swap - Need Suggestions...
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 55
Likes: 1
LS Engine Swap - Need Suggestions... I am replacing my tired and worn out SBC with a 5.3 liter Vortec engine. The problem is that I MUST have a drive by cable setup to control my TV cable on my 700R4. I've had my 700R4 rebuilt, and it's now bullet-proof. My real concern is this. What is the latest year LS engine I can install and still run a manual throttle body (drive by cable)? By switching to a drive by cable setup, you then need to replace the PCM (computer), correct? I've read that people have trouble reprogramming a computer to be used for drive by cable that was originally designed for drive by wire.
I've read that each year the LS was improved by small modifications hear and there. So, I'd like to get a later model LS, but I'm unsure about the mods needed to make a drive by cable work. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I've read that each year the LS was improved by small modifications hear and there. So, I'd like to get a later model LS, but I'm unsure about the mods needed to make a drive by cable work. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
LS1Tech Sponsor
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,233
Likes: 1,522
From: Ohio, Georgia, Nevada, Texas
Your best option is to install up to a 2005, but you can use a Gen IV engine. Gen IV engines require a machine shop to change the 58x reluctor to a 24x reluctor wheel, a LS1/LS6 mechanical throttle body harness and LS1 ECM.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 55
Likes: 1
I hear a lot about folks modifying BOTH the wiring harness for their application and turning off features on the PCM/ECM (computer). But what is the need for this? As long as all the engine sensors are connected, the engine can run, and the whole thing isn't burning to the ground, why do you need to disable/edit anything? I understand disabling VATS is required to make the engine run for longer than a couple seconds. So, besides VATS what's necessary and why?
you can send out your computer to companies that will program it for you. its more for the fact when people put them in older cars they take out the o2s, electric fans, and any other sensors your not going to run through the computer, coolant temp, check engine, etc. all has to do with your specific set up so it runs good with no lights on the dash...
If you live in an area of the country with strict emission laws then you have to keep the extra crap on the engine. Most people remove it because they aren't needed in their area and the the engine looks a lot cleaner without it. Look at it this way, if you take your car to a car wash one day and then two days later hand wash and wax it, which day does it look better? It's the same with the emission crap. Most people don't have to keep it and the engine looks a lot better without it.
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 3
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Buy a Book My suggestion for you is that you buy "GM LS Series Engines", The Complete Swap Manual by Joseph Potak (about twenty bucks from Amazon) which is what I did when I started into the process of putting a LS engine into my 1956 Chevy (I'm working alone and started from scratch). The book is more than worth the time and effort and will help you get a good grip on what the differences are between GenIII and GenIV engines. For example, some of the earlier GenIIIs came from the factory with cable driven throttle controls so you don't have to invent something, etc. In my opinion you would be well served to read up on this and other topics. It saved me a lot of trouble and helped me when visiting forums such as this one where most BUT NOT ALL feedback is accurate. One other comment, the computer controlled 4l60e is a 700R4, basically, (GM now refers to the 700R4as 4l60 - dropping the e for electronic). The 4l60e's are dirt cheap in the aftermarket and you might be able to sell your spiffed up 700R4 and come out about even. Something to think about. Good luck!
