gMAG

iTrader: (1)

joecar has a good idea, and it's the least invasive thing you can do.
Checking the oil & filter will give you some peace of mind, and it beats diving into the oilpan, first.

STLSPARKY

iTrader: (1)

What is the best method to do this with motor and drivetrain in?

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

A screwdriver or wedge is placed between the balancer and the oilpan. The idea is to gently pry/pull the balancer (& crankshaft) forward with the wedge.
The crank/balancer shouldn't move much...I don't know the exact figure.
Maybe joecar will see this and chime in.
From a previous thread...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...clearance.html

joecar

Yes, gently pry the crank forward using the damper/balancer, set your dial indicator to zero, push the crank back all the way, read the dial indicator.



https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-high-rpm.html

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

Honestly....Don't do anything out of the ordinary!

Check the oil pump o-ring and the pump. If that is good, contact TSP.

If you start digging into this engine and damage something, less likely will TSP help you.

mchicia1

iTrader: (5)

I thought the thinker o-ring was meant for the truck pickup tubes?

It might not be sealing fully, but sealing enough when the oil is thick and cold, but letting it slip by when warm. Either way, the motor is gonna have to be inspected to find the issue. May as well start with the oil pump since it is easy to pull on a c5 (as in not needing to drop the pan, but obviously you know this)

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

I thought so too. I have messed with O-rings that were too large for the application, they can create gaps on the inner side when it's too large in diameter for the hole.

mchicia1

iTrader: (5)

Yup. I remember my SLP pump came with two o-rings. One definitely would have caused issues. It was much fatter.

If I were the OP, I would be going to the dealership to get the factory blue one for $4.

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

The obvious thing to do is drain the oil and see if it has bearing material or a nice gold film.
Cut the filter open and check.

Doubt it's an o-ring problem due to how much pressure it has cold.

Letting it idle for long periods while new is not good for the rings but that isn't your problem right now.

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

^^Time for a dyno.
I'll see you in the spring!

shepss217

iTrader: (5)

did you talk to texas speed about the issue? it could be an issue with the shortblock alone

Sales1@Texas-speed

Very unlikely the issue is with the shortblock itself, especially considering the issues the OP originally described to me over the phone. I strongly believe he has an o-ring issue.

TransAmBlue

I seriously doubt its a oring problem, I've seen plenty and none acted like this. Another thing he has never mentioned is knocking ticking and tapping noises, If there was that much air getting mixed into the oil the engine would sound like ***.

Sales1@Texas-speed

Then he must be telling a different story, because I have dealt with the o-ring issues with customers many times and what he described to me, pointed directly at that. Why have we not heard of these so called other issues hes claiming? We are more than happy to help our customers. Give us a call OP, or give a reputable local shop like CBI Street Cars a chance to help you out or take a look, as I know you had never been involved with a project like this before, and were having some issues figuring out all the details of the installation.

TransAmBlue

GM sure made a mess with this design. They were looking at the dollars the dealers were going to make on repairs from this oring design WITHOUT A DOUBT.

I personally think its a total POS from the pickup and bracket to the single attachment bolt! Its not the GM I knew 40 years ago thats for sure.

There is one thing in a engine you want to be fool proof and dam near bullet proof and thats the oiling system. There is so many possible things that can go wrong with this oring design and the pickup design its a complete crap shoot. Not to mention when there is a problem EVERYONE either blames the oring OR piston slap.

I actually had a dealers head wrench try to convince me on a new car that the LIFTER TAP was piston slap. Its a easy out, same with the oring.

OP should pull the cover check it carefully, trouble is most people arn't going to have a clue what they are looking at! It s a **** poor design!

I've owned 4 ls1 cars and ALL of them had oring issues!

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

I disagree...The O-ring works when installed properly. In fact, I had concerns about the single bolt too, but try to take it out. Even when removed, the bolt holding the pick-up to the main studs keeps it in place. It isn't going anywhere. The problem is; too many people who really don't know what they are doing are messing with engines. The only O-ring issues I ever read about are people digging into their engines, not from the factory. No different than the seal on the oil filter...Too tight and it will leak! Installed properly and no leak.

Just read some of the post on this board...a lot of people have no mechanical experience.

I installed an SLP pump on my engine, which it came with two O-rings. One was large and green the other was smaller and black. It tells you to use the black one with the F-body car pick-up. If it didn't matter, they would have just sent one O-ring and save them a few dollars.

I'm not saying the O-ring is the issue. But based on my experience dealing with Texas Speed, they know what they are doing. I highly doubt your issue is from poor engine assembly. So check the easy stuff first.

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

You begin at 'point A', and proceed through the possibilities.
Begin by checking your oil for bearing damage.
Then, check your crank end play.
Then, examine the o-ring.
You're gonna find something.

TransAmBlue

Yeah its a great design...thats why I had oring issues with every LS1 car i've bought, ALL FACTORY built! Every one had orings that leaked air! Now thats poor!

Every oring I've had that failed the lifters got noisy but the oil pressure was always good. The gauge would move around and dip but they were always above 40. Put some seal sweller product in and sure enough all the tapping and funny oil pressure gauge movement stops. Replace the oring and its ok again...FOR WHILE till the new oring stARTS TO FAIL. Its a **** design!

The bigger issue is most of these guys that build new engines then loose the bottom end in 2k miles don't realize that ANY amount of air in the oil is going to overheat the bearings at high RPM's. So if the gauge says 40 psi they think they are ok......

I don't know TSP, They are certainly trying to help this guy find his issue. I'm trying to help too, I've been building and repairing engines for 40 years. I just think if the oring was letting in enough air to drop the oil pressure almost to ZERO at idle the engine would be tapping and rapping terribly. I think there is a oil leak somplace AFTER the pump, this would supply good oil without air. So the engine wouldn't sound that bad. Every engine I heard with a leaking oring even at 40 psi sounded terrible.

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

I've been holding on to this picture.

82cetuner

iTrader: (9)

Hey texas speed I also have one of your engines and I I started experiencing a issue very simular to OP problem. Mine starting with a lifter tap that upon removal found all the lifters were pitted and gouged and the cam lobes were being worn away atleast a good 1 MM or so on the worst lobe, I replaced everything and had everything checked out put and remesured pushrods incase taht was the issue bit low and behold six months later im getting the tap again and same metal in the oil pan, only this time my car dosnt like to build oil pressure past 50 in the high rpms atleast not like it use to. cold pressure is still very high, warm idle is around 39-40. I am pretty sure this engine is toast with the metal I found in oil pan, there was metal on the drain plug and some gummy lookin silver stuff too. the oil itself looked like it had some gold flakes in it so I will assume thats bearing material. I am thinking of rebuilding everything but am afraid of using this same block. could this be a possible oiling issue to the top of the engine? pressure was always fine but have chewed up 2 sets of cams and 2 sets of lifters and the damage was extensive, engine always ran fine both times even with all the damage and most the noise went away on warm up. I can provide pictures of lifters and cam damage