Brand new engine losing oil pressure
02-20-2013, 08:22 PM
#42
No I never removed the oil pump or got that far down into it, when I replaced everything the first time the oil pressure was perfect, but metal ran threw the engine then, I didnt expect to to last more than a year but I wasnt going to tear it all down for nothing. I I dont see how the oil ring being bad would only mess up oil to the top end. I havent broken this motor down yet but im pretty sure its done no way a motor can have that much metal run threw it and last, there was significant amounts of metal missing from the lifters and cam the first time. I highly doubt this metal is leftover from that especially since oil pressure is different now. the thing is the idle oil pressure and oil pressure below 3krpms is normal is everything after that the oil pressure dosnt climb like it use to
02-20-2013, 09:58 PM
#45
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I have had thoughts about my oil pressure also thinking it was the O-ring. I would be happy with 40 psi.. Mine sits about 35 and that's at full temp. Mine jumps up to about 65 or 70 when I'm getting on it. I'm also running a upgraded pump. I did the same thing you are doing. I called around and was scared to drive it for the longest time. I would get no less then 60 on the old ls1 block.(I just switched it all over to the 408) TSP told me that as long as it was above 30 I was good and that the blocks were built loosely. I still replaced the O-ring and I did this 3 times just to make sure it didn't change. Sounds stupid but I also added a little extra oil and parked on a hell of a hill that way if it was the O-ring leaking it would not matter. Still no change to this day. I have put about 4000+ on it.
02-21-2013, 05:52 AM
#46
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No I never removed the oil pump or got that far down into it, when I replaced everything the first time the oil pressure was perfect, but metal ran threw the engine then, I didnt expect to to last more than a year but I wasnt going to tear it all down for nothing. I I dont see how the oil ring being bad would only mess up oil to the top end. I havent broken this motor down yet but im pretty sure its done no way a motor can have that much metal run threw it and last, there was significant amounts of metal missing from the lifters and cam the first time. I highly doubt this metal is leftover from that especially since oil pressure is different now. the thing is the idle oil pressure and oil pressure below 3krpms is normal is everything after that the oil pressure dosnt climb like it use to
02-22-2013, 03:23 PM
#47
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Well Last Saturday was the first chance I got to work on it. So I hooked up the mechanical gauge up front and when the factory sender finally started to drop pressure the mechanical gauge stayed constant, I replaced the electric pressure sensor before going any farther, problem solved 
I had previously hooked up a mechanical gauge when the problem first arose and the pressure was identical between the two. After about 30 minutes I couldn't get the problem to replicate and removed the mechanical gauge knowing that it was dead nuts with the factory reading. I personally experienced a bad sender before but it remained at 80 all times. I was not aware that one could possibly act this way. Maybe there was a small piece of debris in the sending unit from the manufacturer, It was new for this motor..? seems strange for it to behave like that...
Would like to say I called Aaron at Texas speed as soon as it happened. He was eager to help and I know without a doubt TSP stands behind their work. I was in no way bashing TSP, the quality of customer service I experienced with Aaron or questioning the quality of their workmanship
Aaron, I believe you said "I bet you money it's the O-Ring" I guess we should've discussed a dollar amount LOL.
After alot of work already I wanted a second opinion before taking everything back apart, The O-ring causing this issue seemed odd to me. The problem I described while talking to you on the phone was no differant than what I said in this thread. I didnt notice it was dependant on the oil temp right away, but thats because I called you immediatly after it happened and I was flustered by the circumstances.
And yes this was my first motor swap in a C-5, added to the difficulty level was the conversion to LS3 top end, Had some wiring connector problems (cheap injector adapters & TB adapter was wired wrong) had compatibility problem from the LS3 TB which was not obvious because of the strange codes. also couldn't get a working idle tune (2 diff tuners). All these issues Were happening at once so it was pretty difficult and time consuming to diagnose, took alot of time and patience. But everything seems good now. I have never paid anyone to work on any of my vehicles other than installing a cage in my 73' camaro, and some bodywork. Thats how I learn and it allows me to save $ for labor that I can use on more go fast parts.
I learned a whole lot more than I planned too on this project. Including learning to tune it myself to be able to idle and drive until I can have CBI fine tune it for me next week.
Searching this forum and its members helping along the way has been a huge asset to me
Did a 6spd swap last summer so I figured swapping motors would be a cakewalk. I have also learned nothing is as easy as it seems on these cars
I had previously hooked up a mechanical gauge when the problem first arose and the pressure was identical between the two. After about 30 minutes I couldn't get the problem to replicate and removed the mechanical gauge knowing that it was dead nuts with the factory reading. I personally experienced a bad sender before but it remained at 80 all times. I was not aware that one could possibly act this way. Maybe there was a small piece of debris in the sending unit from the manufacturer, It was new for this motor..? seems strange for it to behave like that...
Would like to say I called Aaron at Texas speed as soon as it happened. He was eager to help and I know without a doubt TSP stands behind their work. I was in no way bashing TSP, the quality of customer service I experienced with Aaron or questioning the quality of their workmanship
Aaron, I believe you said "I bet you money it's the O-Ring" I guess we should've discussed a dollar amount LOL.
After alot of work already I wanted a second opinion before taking everything back apart, The O-ring causing this issue seemed odd to me. The problem I described while talking to you on the phone was no differant than what I said in this thread. I didnt notice it was dependant on the oil temp right away, but thats because I called you immediatly after it happened and I was flustered by the circumstances.
And yes this was my first motor swap in a C-5, added to the difficulty level was the conversion to LS3 top end, Had some wiring connector problems (cheap injector adapters & TB adapter was wired wrong) had compatibility problem from the LS3 TB which was not obvious because of the strange codes. also couldn't get a working idle tune (2 diff tuners). All these issues Were happening at once so it was pretty difficult and time consuming to diagnose, took alot of time and patience. But everything seems good now. I have never paid anyone to work on any of my vehicles other than installing a cage in my 73' camaro, and some bodywork. Thats how I learn and it allows me to save $ for labor that I can use on more go fast parts.
I learned a whole lot more than I planned too on this project. Including learning to tune it myself to be able to idle and drive until I can have CBI fine tune it for me next week.
Searching this forum and its members helping along the way has been a huge asset to me
Did a 6spd swap last summer so I figured swapping motors would be a cakewalk. I have also learned nothing is as easy as it seems on these cars 
03-03-2013, 02:52 PM
#50
Hey guys sorry I didnt see any of these msgs till now. I will try to give you a call this week aaron. and the setup I have is ported and milled ls3 heads .30 I belive, Lunatie High rpm lifters. PRC .675 duel springs and 7.30 pushrods. the exaust side use to have 7.25 but the guy that remesured said the exhaust side actually could of used a longer than 7.30 but he said 7.3 would work all around so thats what I used. it defnietly knocks on cold startup, but pretty much goes away after warmup exept the sewing machine noise common in alot of big cam cars. the engine probably now has about 10-15k on it as well now. im not srue if the metal is from the old cam failing or if this one is going out again havent torn anything apart, oil pressure seems a little lower than what it use to be but someone said that could be cause things finally started to settle in IDK. I think all in all I am going to go with a different block and do a 440 ls7 and keep the 4.0 stroke. So Aaron can you guys do that build? I understand you would have to send a block off to get sleeved to use have a 4.185 bore and 4.0 stroke.
