Ok...outta ideas...head swap..and now no tach?
04-20-2004, 10:28 AM
#21
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Originally Posted by kossuth
Use a multimeter and disconnect the sensor and the PCM connections. Check your resistance from the pin of the sensor connector and the pin of the PCM. If you don't have a pinout then I would get one real quick and check off the pins and ensure you have continutity from pin to pin. Also gives you a chance to inspect the pins. I think the wires may have separated inside the insulation. PCM might be bad but I would put more money on a broken conductor. If you for sure have everything hooked up right and the wires all check out then I might suspect the PCM.
04-20-2004, 07:19 PM
#22
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Originally Posted by SilverGhost
There is a connector up by the front of the passenger side fuel rail..its white..two halves that connect together and its big you can't miss it, that is actually for your cam sensor as I found out the hard way. Make sure that thing is plugged together and working and I would say pull the loom off that part of the harness that runs along the rail and make sure the wires are cool.
That is only on a 98 F-body. No other year has that connector nor do the wires come up the harness any at all. They go directley to the cam sensor. Just an FYI for you.
Originally Posted by kossuth
Use a multimeter and disconnect the sensor and the PCM connections. Check your resistance from the pin of the sensor connector and the pin of the PCM. If you don't have a pinout then I would get one real quick and check off the pins and ensure you have continutity from pin to pin. Also gives you a chance to inspect the pins. I think the wires may have separated inside the insulation. PCM might be bad but I would put more money on a broken conductor. If you for sure have everything hooked up right and the wires all check out then I might suspect the PCM.
04-24-2004, 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Slow 346
I am having the exact same problem as you. Did you find anything wrong?
Sent you a PM,when we find BLKWS6's problem it sounds like your could be the same.
05-05-2005, 10:48 AM
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pulling out hair! I hate to bring up such an old thread, but I had a friend send me this link, and I am having the EXACT same problem.
All we did was take the intake off. Well, along w/ the coil brackets, and valve covers. We installed it all very carefully back together, and this is what happens....
I try to crank the car, it is very hard to start (read that was a symptom). The car cranked, no code. Little did I know it would take 2 runs to show me this. I get in the next morning, it is hard to start, and the code popped up.
I checked it w/ the Actron, and it gave me P0342, and I just sat there and stared. I erased the code and went to work. After work I get in, same problem. But here is the thing, it cranked right up. Sometimes it would crank
right up, and the other times, it was very hard to crank. The RPM needle isn't working either.
So. We reached back behind the intake to see if it was unplugged or something, since it is pointing in such a way, I could see it happening. It was plugged in. I went ahead and tried to crank it again, since we unplugged it, and plugged it back in. Same SES, same problem-hard to start. We pulled the intake again, and checked out the area.
I didn't see any problems w/ the 3 wires going in the connector, no bent pins, etc. I pulled on them a little and they seemed tight. The wires go into a loom to God knows where (lol, I know, PCM) I pulled out the cam sensor, and
didn't see anything wrong w/ it??? It had a little touch or dirt here and there on the end of the magnet, nothing major. I put it back in, and I have a new one on the way to me tomorrow.
From what I have read, I am afraid I am going to get this installed, and get this code again
I would freak.
I have a voltmeter. If someone can take a few minutes to tell me exactly how to check these wires, and which ones, I can do that. And I know I will have to turn the key to the ON position to do this, right? W/ the intake off,
do I just pull the fuel pump fuse, or cap the fuel line?? I don't have any idea what effect this would have. Can I check ohms or anything w/ the key Off?
Sorry this is so long, but this is the EXACT same problem I have right now, and I need to get it fixed ASAP. Btw, the stock intake went back on. This is a 99 TA A4.
Pleeeeease help!!!
Do I need to check fuses? I read that somewhere in this post??
All we did was take the intake off. Well, along w/ the coil brackets, and valve covers. We installed it all very carefully back together, and this is what happens....
I try to crank the car, it is very hard to start (read that was a symptom). The car cranked, no code. Little did I know it would take 2 runs to show me this. I get in the next morning, it is hard to start, and the code popped up.
I checked it w/ the Actron, and it gave me P0342, and I just sat there and stared. I erased the code and went to work. After work I get in, same problem. But here is the thing, it cranked right up. Sometimes it would crank
right up, and the other times, it was very hard to crank. The RPM needle isn't working either.
So. We reached back behind the intake to see if it was unplugged or something, since it is pointing in such a way, I could see it happening. It was plugged in. I went ahead and tried to crank it again, since we unplugged it, and plugged it back in. Same SES, same problem-hard to start. We pulled the intake again, and checked out the area.
I didn't see any problems w/ the 3 wires going in the connector, no bent pins, etc. I pulled on them a little and they seemed tight. The wires go into a loom to God knows where (lol, I know, PCM) I pulled out the cam sensor, and
didn't see anything wrong w/ it??? It had a little touch or dirt here and there on the end of the magnet, nothing major. I put it back in, and I have a new one on the way to me tomorrow.
From what I have read, I am afraid I am going to get this installed, and get this code again
I would freak.I have a voltmeter. If someone can take a few minutes to tell me exactly how to check these wires, and which ones, I can do that. And I know I will have to turn the key to the ON position to do this, right? W/ the intake off,
do I just pull the fuel pump fuse, or cap the fuel line?? I don't have any idea what effect this would have. Can I check ohms or anything w/ the key Off?
Sorry this is so long, but this is the EXACT same problem I have right now, and I need to get it fixed ASAP. Btw, the stock intake went back on. This is a 99 TA A4.
Pleeeeease help!!!
Do I need to check fuses? I read that somewhere in this post??
