Ackattack1

iTrader: (7)

will using the 0w40 reduce oil consumption?

I have a little consumption, and I currently use M1 10W30. Others may like to know also.

Quick 99

It should bne fine for now correct? just swap out for the 10w30 next time? or what

99-LS1-SS

I use Valvolene 5w30. My car doesn't use any oil. :knocking on wood:

crainholio

iTrader: (2)

Yup, and you can mix good beer with cheap beer to get some of the benefits of the good beer.

Mixing oil, you're either hoping the additive packages are compatible or paying more $$ for a lab to analyze the mixture and return their conclusion. If you want a compromise, buy the synth-blend stuff.

Patman

Yes, using the 0w40 should reduce consumption by a noticeable amount.

c5blkvette

Oil pressure is not all it is about... maybe in the old days, having good oil pressure was required. But now with closer tolerances and the synthetic grades of oil, you dont need high oil pressure to ensure the bearings are not wearing.

We all need to remember that the thicker the oil, the more horsepower you are robbing from the engine due to oil shearing. Running the thinnest possible oil without sacrificing protection is the BEST option.

c5blkvette

Ps. If you are burning oil ...FIX YOUR ENGINE!

TTtop

iTrader: (6)

What about the guys spinning bearings at the track (a couple of them recently), and some of them have been running mobil 1 5w30?

I'll gladly give up 5rwhp to insure I don't spin a bearing at the track!! The downtime alone is worth 5hp, and I can make up that loss somewhere else, such as weight reduction.

KGSloan

i want the best protection for my motor, period. be damned if i lose 5hp.

stealth

Precisely why I use Mobil 1 synthetic 15W50 , which is recommended for boosted and high HP cars. It's understood that the greater protection will cost you a few HP, but WTF, I haven't had bearing problems.

Patman

My bearing wear with German Castrol Syntec 0w30 is extremely low, lower than any other oil I've ever seen run in an LT1 engine. For example, I went 6200 miles on my last oil change and my oil analysis results showed only 2.5ppm of lead! Most other oils I've seen in the LT1 would show well over 10ppm of lead during that time (lead is an indicator of bearing wear)

German Castrol 0w30 is almost a 0w40, and in fact it did thicken up into a 0w40 by the end of my 6200 mile interval.

I think an oil with a viscosity right on the border of the 30-40wt line is ideal for a hard driven LT1 or LS1. Which means you want an oil close to 12.5cst at 100c (plus or minus a bit) for the lowest bearing wear. GC 0w30 starts out at 12.2 cst at 100c (and in my case finished up at 12.9cst)

crainholio

iTrader: (2)

Amen dude, it's all about how you use your car. Street driving and drag racing aren't nearly as hard on the engine and oil as road course useage...30+ minutes of continuous 3500-6000rpm cycling. I've seen two cars, one using 5W-30 and one using 0W-30, spin bearings on road courses...not a single one using thicker oil has had problems.

Patman

As well, when you're seeing 300 degree oil temps, it's a recipe for disaster with just about any oil!

So instead of doing the bandaid fix (running a 20w50), if you're going to be subjecting your car to those types of conditions, get an oil cooler.

Otherwise you'll just end up with more engine wear during warmup with that thick 20w50 (or 15w50 oil) in order to try and give yourself the protection at those 300F temps. Better to have the good flow when the engine is cold, and then not have the oil get super hot so that it thins out too much.

crainholio

iTrader: (2)

I'm testing Delvac-1 this season, figured it had the right cold/hot cSt numbers and was tough enough for the road courses I run. I'll have Blackstone data up on BITOG as the season progresses.

J-Rod

I switched my truck over to synthetic @ 55K miles. It went to 270K before it killed the timing chain and had to be freshened up. I'm almost to 300K on it now... So, yes, you can switch motors over safely.

NastySSoo

Ive used Mobil 1 since new. Gradually going heavier and heavier weights.I now use 15w 50.I feel Im not doing any harm at start-up and of course I take it easy til it warms up. My car has 78k. Ive been racing it weekly in florida since 500 miles. It could let go tomorrow and I couldnt bitch. But I can tell you I have an honest , **** I dont know how many anymore, 1300? passes at the track. Sometimes 10-12 passes per visit. Ive never had my oil analized, Im afraid what it might show. I change my oil every 3000 to 3500 miles. With weekly racing I burn quite a bit of oil. With 8-10 passes Ill use about 1/4 of a quart. I expect to burn oil spinning my car up over 6400 rpm. Has Mobil 1 kept my engine alive? I dont know. Maybe any quality oil changed regularly would have given the same results. I just know with all I ask from my motor I wanted what I thought was arguably one of the best oils available! Whew! Thers my .o2 and then some!

hugger427

iTrader: (9)

I have a 427 with nearly 2000 miles on it. I've been running 5-30 for the breakin period and have changed the oil several times. This engine is very strong but it likes the oil. Approximately 1.25 quarts per 1000 miles. I've heard this is common for high compression stroked motors.

I'm going with Synthetic next oil change and have heard using 5 qts of mobile 0-40 with 1 qt lucas oil stabilizer is a good combo to significantly reduce consuption as well as protect motor on cold starts etc.

Thought/suggestions.

BTW, thanks for your very informative posts!!!

Deeavi

iTrader: (16)

I don't know about Patman, but I would say you have a problem! I have built a good many performance engines, from 302ci to 504ci and none have used oil like yours. I would think you have cylinder sealing problem, a valve guide problem, or a pcv problem. The last engine I built was a 400ci Dart Block with a scat 3.75 stroke crank, Scat 6" rods, special KB stoker pistons, Dart Pro 1 heads and 10.5 to one compression It didn't use a drop of oil. Of course I never raced it, but I did stretch it out often! I used 15W-50 Mobil 1

Patman

Maybe I'm reading your post wrong, but my engine isn't the one using oil. Just thought I'd clear that up.

One thing that is very important, that I've said here many times, is that choosing the right oil for your car is best done with the aid of oil analysis results. Every situation is a little bit different, so by doing oil analysis you can help see if what you've chosen is correct or not. I was able to significantly reduce engine wear through the use of oil analysis on my LT1. My very first report back in the summer of 2002 was horrendous, and had I kept along that path my engine most certainly would've worn out considerably quicker.

Deeavi

iTrader: (16)

Yes you were reading my post wrong! I was replying to hugger427.