Mobil 1...ok or not?
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 617
Likes: 0
From: South East PA
Originally Posted by Deeavi
No one recomends heavy weight oil for LS1 engines. The highest weight I have seen recomended is a 40 weight. If you go to the Amsoil site there are some links to oil comparisons and that might help. Don't missunderstand me. I am not telling anyone to use Amsoil. Just educate yourself with all the facts before you make a decision!
Originally Posted by TTtop
Can you blend synthetic & non-synthetic oils to get some of the benefits of the synthetics? If so, what mix for 6 quarts fo oil? 
TIA again...Randy
TIA again...Randy
Mixing oil, you're either hoping the additive packages are compatible or paying more $$ for a lab to analyze the mixture and return their conclusion. If you want a compromise, buy the synth-blend stuff.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 7,234
Likes: 1
From: Mississauga, Ontario
Originally Posted by Ackattack1
will using the 0w40 reduce oil consumption?
I have a little consumption, and I currently use M1 10W30. Others may like to know also.
I have a little consumption, and I currently use M1 10W30. Others may like to know also.
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 271
Likes: 0
From: California
Oil pressure is not all it is about... maybe in the old days, having good oil pressure was required. But now with closer tolerances and the synthetic grades of oil, you dont need high oil pressure to ensure the bearings are not wearing.
We all need to remember that the thicker the oil, the more horsepower you are robbing from the engine due to oil shearing. Running the thinnest possible oil without sacrificing protection is the BEST option.
We all need to remember that the thicker the oil, the more horsepower you are robbing from the engine due to oil shearing. Running the thinnest possible oil without sacrificing protection is the BEST option.
Originally Posted by c5blkvette
Oil pressure is not all it is about... maybe in the old days, having good oil pressure was required. But now with closer tolerances and the synthetic grades of oil, you dont need high oil pressure to ensure the bearings are not wearing.
We all need to remember that the thicker the oil, the more horsepower you are robbing from the engine due to oil shearing. Running the thinnest possible oil without sacrificing protection is the BEST option.
We all need to remember that the thicker the oil, the more horsepower you are robbing from the engine due to oil shearing. Running the thinnest possible oil without sacrificing protection is the BEST option.
What about the guys spinning bearings at the track (a couple of them recently), and some of them have been running mobil 1 5w30?
I'll gladly give up 5rwhp to insure I don't spin a bearing at the track!! The downtime alone is worth 5hp, and I can make up that loss somewhere else, such as weight reduction.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
TECH Resident
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 791
Likes: 0
From: Tulsa, Ok
Originally Posted by TTtop
What about the guys spinning bearings at the track (a couple of them recently), and some of them have been running mobil 1 5w30?
I'll gladly give up 5rwhp to insure I don't spin a bearing at the track!! The downtime alone is worth 5hp, and I can make up that loss somewhere else, such as weight reduction.
I'll gladly give up 5rwhp to insure I don't spin a bearing at the track!! The downtime alone is worth 5hp, and I can make up that loss somewhere else, such as weight reduction.
i want the best protection for my motor, period. be damned if i lose 5hp.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 7,234
Likes: 1
From: Mississauga, Ontario
My bearing wear with German Castrol Syntec 0w30 is extremely low, lower than any other oil I've ever seen run in an LT1 engine. For example, I went 6200 miles on my last oil change and my oil analysis results showed only 2.5ppm of lead! Most other oils I've seen in the LT1 would show well over 10ppm of lead during that time (lead is an indicator of bearing wear)
German Castrol 0w30 is almost a 0w40, and in fact it did thicken up into a 0w40 by the end of my 6200 mile interval.
I think an oil with a viscosity right on the border of the 30-40wt line is ideal for a hard driven LT1 or LS1. Which means you want an oil close to 12.5cst at 100c (plus or minus a bit) for the lowest bearing wear. GC 0w30 starts out at 12.2 cst at 100c (and in my case finished up at 12.9cst)
German Castrol 0w30 is almost a 0w40, and in fact it did thicken up into a 0w40 by the end of my 6200 mile interval.
I think an oil with a viscosity right on the border of the 30-40wt line is ideal for a hard driven LT1 or LS1. Which means you want an oil close to 12.5cst at 100c (plus or minus a bit) for the lowest bearing wear. GC 0w30 starts out at 12.2 cst at 100c (and in my case finished up at 12.9cst)
Amen dude, it's all about how you use your car. Street driving and drag racing aren't nearly as hard on the engine and oil as road course useage...30+ minutes of continuous 3500-6000rpm cycling. I've seen two cars, one using 5W-30 and one using 0W-30, spin bearings on road courses...not a single one using thicker oil has had problems.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 7,234
Likes: 1
From: Mississauga, Ontario
As well, when you're seeing 300 degree oil temps, it's a recipe for disaster with just about any oil!
So instead of doing the bandaid fix (running a 20w50), if you're going to be subjecting your car to those types of conditions, get an oil cooler.
Otherwise you'll just end up with more engine wear during warmup with that thick 20w50 (or 15w50 oil) in order to try and give yourself the protection at those 300F temps. Better to have the good flow when the engine is cold, and then not have the oil get super hot so that it thins out too much.
So instead of doing the bandaid fix (running a 20w50), if you're going to be subjecting your car to those types of conditions, get an oil cooler.
Otherwise you'll just end up with more engine wear during warmup with that thick 20w50 (or 15w50 oil) in order to try and give yourself the protection at those 300F temps. Better to have the good flow when the engine is cold, and then not have the oil get super hot so that it thins out too much.
6600 rpm clutch dump of death Administrator
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 4,983
Likes: 13
From: Texas
I switched my truck over to synthetic @ 55K miles. It went to 270K before it killed the timing chain and had to be freshened up. I'm almost to 300K on it now... So, yes, you can switch motors over safely.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,376
Likes: 0
From: Stuart Fl
Ive used Mobil 1 since new. Gradually going heavier and heavier weights.I now use 15w 50.I feel Im not doing any harm at start-up and of course I take it easy til it warms up. My car has 78k. Ive been racing it weekly in florida since 500 miles. It could let go tomorrow and I couldnt bitch. But I can tell you I have an honest , **** I dont know how many anymore, 1300? passes at the track. Sometimes 10-12 passes per visit. Ive never had my oil analized, Im afraid what it might show. I change my oil every 3000 to 3500 miles. With weekly racing I burn quite a bit of oil. With 8-10 passes Ill use about 1/4 of a quart. I expect to burn oil spinning my car up over 6400 rpm. Has Mobil 1 kept my engine alive? I dont know. Maybe any quality oil changed regularly would have given the same results. I just know with all I ask from my motor I wanted what I thought was arguably one of the best oils available! Whew! Thers my .o2 and then some! 
Patman what's your recommendation for me??? I have a 427 with nearly 2000 miles on it. I've been running 5-30 for the breakin period and have changed the oil several times. This engine is very strong but it likes the oil. Approximately 1.25 quarts per 1000 miles. I've heard this is common for high compression stroked motors.
I'm going with Synthetic next oil change and have heard using 5 qts of mobile 0-40 with 1 qt lucas oil stabilizer is a good combo to significantly reduce consuption as well as protect motor on cold starts etc.
Thought/suggestions.
BTW, thanks for your very informative posts!!!
I'm going with Synthetic next oil change and have heard using 5 qts of mobile 0-40 with 1 qt lucas oil stabilizer is a good combo to significantly reduce consuption as well as protect motor on cold starts etc.
Thought/suggestions.
BTW, thanks for your very informative posts!!!
I don't know about Patman, but I would say you have a problem! I have built a good many performance engines, from 302ci to 504ci and none have used oil like yours. I would think you have cylinder sealing problem, a valve guide problem, or a pcv problem. The last engine I built was a 400ci Dart Block with a scat 3.75 stroke crank, Scat 6" rods, special KB stoker pistons, Dart Pro 1 heads and 10.5 to one compression It didn't use a drop of oil. Of course I never raced it, but I did stretch it out often! I used 15W-50 Mobil 1
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 7,234
Likes: 1
From: Mississauga, Ontario
Originally Posted by Deeavi
I don't know about Patman, but I would say you have a problem! I have built a good many performance engines, from 302ci to 504ci and none have used oil like yours. I would think you have cylinder sealing problem, a valve guide problem, or a pcv problem. The last engine I built was a 400ci Dart Block with a scat 3.75 stroke crank, Scat 6" rods, special KB stoker pistons, Dart Pro 1 heads and 10.5 to one compression It didn't use a drop of oil. Of course I never raced it, but I did stretch it out often! I used 15W-50 Mobil 1
Maybe I'm reading your post wrong, but my engine isn't the one using oil. Just thought I'd clear that up.
One thing that is very important, that I've said here many times, is that choosing the right oil for your car is best done with the aid of oil analysis results. Every situation is a little bit different, so by doing oil analysis you can help see if what you've chosen is correct or not. I was able to significantly reduce engine wear through the use of oil analysis on my LT1. My very first report back in the summer of 2002 was horrendous, and had I kept along that path my engine most certainly would've worn out considerably quicker.
Originally Posted by Patman
Maybe I'm reading your post wrong, but my engine isn't the one using oil. Just thought I'd clear that up.
One thing that is very important, that I've said here many times, is that choosing the right oil for your car is best done with the aid of oil analysis results. Every situation is a little bit different, so by doing oil analysis you can help see if what you've chosen is correct or not. I was able to significantly reduce engine wear through the use of oil analysis on my LT1. My very first report back in the summer of 2002 was horrendous, and had I kept along that path my engine most certainly would've worn out considerably quicker.
One thing that is very important, that I've said here many times, is that choosing the right oil for your car is best done with the aid of oil analysis results. Every situation is a little bit different, so by doing oil analysis you can help see if what you've chosen is correct or not. I was able to significantly reduce engine wear through the use of oil analysis on my LT1. My very first report back in the summer of 2002 was horrendous, and had I kept along that path my engine most certainly would've worn out considerably quicker.
Yes you were reading my post wrong! I was replying to hugger427.