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how to make your LS1 forged....

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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 05:45 PM
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Default how to make your LS1 forged....

i have been running cam + bolt-ons for about two years.....i really want to do heads and a FAST int, but i keep reading that 98's have weak rod bolts, so i don't want to ruin a nice set of AFR's or TFS's.....my rev limiter is set at 6300 now, but one day i'd love to try a single turbo shooting for 550-600rwhp.....so with all of this in mind, my question is what all goes into making a rock solid bottom end.....aftermarket rotating assembly and bearings???.....i installed the cam by myself, so i know the basics, but how much of the bottom end build can i do myself and what will i have to get done by a machine shop?....also, what are the better brands for a crank, rods, pistons, etc?.....is there a kit that produces good results?.....how much HP will the stock crank hold if i just do pistons/rods?.....what is the difference between a 346 and a 347 LS1?....would it be best to go 383?.....sorry for all of the questions, just thought this could be a good thread for those of use who are thinking of going forged.
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 05:56 PM
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383 means you need a 4" stroker crank.

eagle, callies, plenty of rotating assemblies to buy.

If you dont have the proper tools to measure and balance the crank etc. then just let a machine shop do it.
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 07:11 PM
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Honestly if you are going to put that kind of money into an engine, I would possibly look into building a 5.3 or 6.0. Find one cheap and build the motor on the stand and keep your car on the road until it's done! Just a thought for ya....
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 07:14 PM
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a stock ls1 crank will handle 550+ rwhp. a machine shop will need to hone the cylinder bores,clean the block,install cam bearing,etc.. .check Texas Speed for rods & pistons ,or a rotating assembly.
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by jbridwelltransam
Honestly if you are going to put that kind of money into an engine, I would possibly look into building a 5.3 or 6.0. Find one cheap and build the motor on the stand and keep your car on the road until it's done! Just a thought for ya....
definitely a good idea......i'm picking up a daily driver soon so i won't matter if my SS is down for a while.......there's a 6.0 with 244k locally for $800.....is that a decent price?....high miles but i guess that doesn't really matter since i'll be going through the entire thing.....i've always wanted to put one on the engine stand and watch it turn into something badass (of course after it eats alot of $$$)

Originally Posted by garygnu
a stock ls1 crank will handle 550+ rwhp. a machine shop will need to hone the cylinder bores,clean the block,install cam bearing,etc.. .check Texas Speed for rods & pistons ,or a rotating assembly.
thanks gary, this is the kind of info i was looking for.
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 07:34 PM
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You can score those iron versions for 400 or 500 with less miles
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Tainted
383 means you need a 4" stroker crank.

eagle, callies, plenty of rotating assemblies to buy.

If you dont have the proper tools to measure and balance the crank etc. then just let a machine shop do it.
i've been reading about eagle and lunati, i'll have to check out callies......thanks

Originally Posted by Tainted
You can score those iron versions for 400 or 500 with less miles
cool, i'll check around and see what i can dig up......i think you guys have talked me into throwing one on a stand and building it up, should be fun.
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 07:44 PM
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Callies is nice **** but its price shows that. Fwiw my assembly is eagle, no complaints.
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 07:51 PM
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Common 347 ls1 build for supporting 700-800 rwhp (I went with this, love it)

1) Wiseco pistons
2) Callies compstar rods with ARP 2000 bolts
3) ARP Main Studs
4) Stock crank

The stock crank is good for much higher than 550 rwhp. If you know you're going boost, just keep the stock crank. If you are going N/A, I think an ls2 or ls3 block is a better idea because it gives you a lot more potential. Make sure you set your piston to wall clearance and ring gaps accordingly if going boost.
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 07:54 PM
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A forged crank is still worth looking into. Better quality, little bit lighter and you know its not gonna break. Plus at this point just buy the damn stroker crank and enjoy the extra ci
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 09:13 PM
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you can get 5.3 and 6.0's all day for 500 or less.
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 09:24 PM
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347 is when you hone out the block of a ls1 or 5.3 to 3.905 to take a typical aftermarket piston (diamond, wiseco, etc)

to build an engine whether its a 5.3, 6.0, or whatever needs to be planned right from what I've seen...

I'm getting an engine built as we speak and the price for the block (core) and parts+ labor can add up to close to what a shortblock cost from a sponser...

I would keep that in mind because its easy to buy all the parts, but getting it all put together and properly getting it together are diffrent ball games..
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 09:27 PM
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Oh and by the way I would have went and built a 6.0 stroker, the only reason I'm staying 5.7 is because my cam, converter were spec'd for a 5.7.... that and I'm reusing my forged ls6 rotating assembly..

I'm building an IRON 347
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Tainted
Callies is nice **** but its price shows that. Fwiw my assembly is eagle, no complaints.
Yeah I've heard bad things about eagle but haven't read a thread about anything broken by eagle.... Chinese rods for the win..
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 09:55 PM
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I promise you this. If it breaks you will see a thread about it LOL
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Tainted
I promise you this. If it breaks you will see a thread about it LOL
lol Yeah i told my engine builder how much power I wanted to make and he raised his eyebrows at the eagle h beam rods... but said they were ok...

Id love to buy lunati, callies, etc....

but theres too many people on here making stupid power on stock cranks and eagle rods/diamond pistons...
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 10:25 PM
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Where are y'all finding 6.0's for $400-$500? Cuz what I'm finding is no less than $750.
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 10:28 PM
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Junk yards or lkq

Prices vary by area
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 10:36 PM
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Yea keep the stock crank. It can handle way more then your wanting to make. I know people making 700rwhp and running in the 9s with stock crank.
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Blackbird-WS6
Yea keep the stock crank. It can handle way more then your wanting to make. I know people making 700rwhp and running in the 9s with stock crank.
exactly, I know Ill baby my car at first... and once the boost bug gets me, I'll start planning another engine build in my head and start getting really reckless with my current engine because at that point I won't give a **** if it blows...

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