l 95 Trans Am l

iTrader: (5)

I spoke to Tom at Speed Inc the day I ordered the cam. He said stock injectors would work fine. Also where can I get the ARP bolt? The "How to cam swap walkthrough" on LS1howto.com said to get a larger bolt but I wasn't quite sure what they meant. This is my first time digging into an LS engine so some things are new to me, I have experience with the good ol' smallblocks as well as my 95' LT1

l 95 Trans Am l

iTrader: (5)

So I should approach that portion of the walkthrough with caution? What exactly does he say to do that's wrong?

Burken01

iTrader: (88)

when your installing the pulley, it says to put the bolt through it and start tightening it and the pulley will slowly go on, however there have been instances the while on the first few turns that the threads will rip out since thats alot of pressure on the first 2-3 threads...

I bought a threaded rod (M16 threaded rod x 2.0 pitch) and cut it to 6.5" and placed a few washers on it and a nut..

then you thread the whole rod into the crank till it bottoms out, install pulley, places a couple washers (I added arp lube to the washers for less resistance) then add the nut. Slowly tighten the nut and it will push the pulley on and its the safest way since its completely threaded in and has the strength of every single thread instead of just a few with the "bolt" method listed on ls1howto.com.

the arp bolt is here

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ar...FaI-MgodhDAAOA

Uneverknow

iTrader: (1)

I did the same threaded rod trick ^^^^^ worked great. I got my arp bolt at a local speed shop.

Burken01

iTrader: (88)

any updates, howd it go?

ds98formula

iTrader: (3)

OP who is tuning the car. That is the cam I have in mine. Speed inc tuned. I have y pipe on mine but I am switching to true duals so I am interested in the numbers you put down. And a sound clip. For me the hardest part was getting the stock crank pulley off had to get so many different pullers.

cabech984

iTrader: (11)

I've always had good luck heating the crank pulley at 400 or so degrees for 10-20 minutes and threading it down with the arp bolt. That said, I may buy the crank install tool for my next cam swap.

l 95 Trans Am l

iTrader: (5)

Update. Intake, water pump, radiator are all removed. Got the crank pulley halfway off and the 3 claw puller snapped

Fortunately I borrowed a Snap On puller from a friend, I also went out today and bought the 3/8th inch steel dowel rods so if one of the lifters decide to fall I should be okay. Unfortunately I don't have much time to work in it. I plan on hitting it hard tomorrow night.
Also I'm getting it dyno tuned at Rapid Motorsports in Birdsboro, PA. They're a sponsor on here. I will keep you guys updated, I'm having fun so far!

Burken01

iTrader: (88)

Yea never liked the 3 claw pullers, I got the autozone brand pulley puller.. works like a charm, glad to see its going well for you...

dr_whigham

iTrader: (49)

I broke the Autozone tool. The one I rented from advance though was a beast!

I used the hawks tool to install the crank pulley. Easy easy.

blackws620

ALWAYS replace the lifters if you have miles on them. Good set of LS7 lifters are pretty cheap and you will feel warm and fuzzy when you put it back together and dont have to have that crap i probably should have changed them when you button things up.

gagliano7

3/8 is to big you need 5/16 dowels.

Rare96LT1Formula

iTrader: (32)

Personally, I tend to feel that if you're going to take on this kind of job, you want it done right the first time. Spend the money on a Katech chain, Melling pump, LS7 lifters, LS2 lifter trays, MLS head gaskets, etc. Yes, it'll add another $500 in expenses roughly. However, you'll have the piece of mind knowing that you having fresh components. Imagine how pissed you'd be if you shattered a lifter and ruined the motor, when it could've been prevented with a little time, money, and sweat.

ds98formula

iTrader: (3)

any update

Roarin_8

iTrader: (5)

I'm in the middle of getting the last of my parts, waterpump and LS6 valley cover. I picked up Comp Cams set of lifters and will get it all done beginning of next month. My lifters sound like they are on their last leg, at least the ones on the passenger side, 89K miles with about 30K with the bigger cam on the stock lifters.

Roarin_8

iTrader: (5)

I did see a video where if you have the springs off the heads and you turn the crank the lifters move up into the lifter trays and stay there, I'll see if I can find it.

Roarin_8

iTrader: (5)

Still looking for the video but here is the write up about it:

DON’T LET THE LIFTERS FALL

Performing a camshaft change on a GM LS engine is fairly easy, thanks to the design of the plastic lifter guides. After removing the water pump, crank pulley and front cover, loosen all rocker arms and remove the pushrods. Rotate the crank twice (360 degrees). This will allow the cam lobes to push the roller lifters up into the lifter trays, where a slight interference fit in the lifter buckets will hold them up and away from the camshaft. This allows you to remove the cam (and install the new cam) without the need to remove the lifters from the engine. That’s the factory method.

However, here’s a tip: (Which is what most of us here know about) While the slight interference fit of the lifters in the lifter guides (trays/buckets) should be sufficient to hold the lifters up, the possibility exists for one or more lifters to accidentally drop down into the cam tunnel, which would require cylinder head removal in order to retrieve the lifter(s).

To avoid this, once the lifters have been popped up into their buckets, and before removing the camshaft, insert a pair of 1/4-inch or 5/16-inch diameter steel rods into the lifter galley oil passages at the front of the engine (off to each side of the cam). Each rod should be about 24 inches long. With these rods in place, even if a lifter tried to drop down, it can’t drop far enough to disengage from the lifter bucket guide.

Once the new cam is installed, remove the temporary steel rods. Install the pushrods, and pop the lifters down onto the cam by simply pushing on the pushrods. Complete the reassembly and you’re done.

Using these “fail-safe” rods will save you tons of extra work in case one or more lifters try to drop down.

Roarin_8

iTrader: (5)

Found it, it was an old Horsepower TV episode when they spun the bearing on a rod:

9:15 shows the lifters being pushed up into the trays, however they already had the heads off....

l 95 Trans Am l

iTrader: (5)

Well guys, she's running! Oil pressures good, no leaks or majo noises. I took it ffor a ride (didn't beat on it) and I layer into it a little and it felt like it just didn't wanna go, it's not missing or anything. Is this normal for an unturned cam only car? It's the Speed Inc SI5 cam. I believe it's a 231/237 112lsa

l 95 Trans Am l

iTrader: (5)

I'm getting it dyno tuned on the 9th.