Rebuilt LS1 will not start...
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 110
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Agreed! Another guy on this site was have the exact same problems as you & this was the culprit.. Double check your coil wires if you're running your stock coil harnesses. 98' coil harnesses cannot be swapped like 99-02's can.. Here's the color pin-out for each cylinder, check them.
1. PPL
3. LT BLU
5. BRN
7. DK GRN
2. RED
4. DK GRN/WHT
6. BRN/WHT
8. LT BLU/WHt
1. PPL
3. LT BLU
5. BRN
7. DK GRN
2. RED
4. DK GRN/WHT
6. BRN/WHT
8. LT BLU/WHt
I have looked a few times for these colors on the harness... What exactly am I looking at? pic? Am I looking at the wires? or a certain color on the connectors?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 110
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Anyone? I want to start with the simple stuff, but after looking at the wiring last night i could not figure out the colors you speak of. Is is a single wire somewhere? Coil pack harness? engine harness for injectors? is it the white connector?
he was talking about the coil pack harnesses. check the wiring that goes to each individual coil. if the harness was flipped over and plugged into the wrong coils this could cause a no start condition because the firing order would be off. he numbered the cyliners for you to reference.
he was talking about the coil pack harnesses. check the wiring that goes to each individual coil. if the harness was flipped over and plugged into the wrong coils this could cause a no start condition because the firing order would be off. he numbered the cyliners for you to reference.
he was talking about the coil pack harnesses. check the wiring that goes to each individual coil. if the harness was flipped over and plugged into the wrong coils this could cause a no start condition because the firing order would be off. he numbered the cyliners for you to reference.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2013
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No luck tonight. I checked the harness's and one side was flipped. I believe I have them connected right. Went to crank it... and nothing. Was having a hard time turning the engine over, so I got a new battery and starter. Installed them and tried to crank it over again. This time it was much faster and enough to where the engine should have started... but nothing. No backfire or any signs of life. almost like I am not getting spark. I know there is fuel, I can smell it. So tomorrow I am going to try to crank it over hoping maybe the plugs might have gotten wet, maybe it will try to start. If not this weekend I am pulling the valve covers and checking pushrod length.
This is such a PITA! I just wanna drive her...
This is such a PITA! I just wanna drive her...
Can you duplicate the test, where you disconnected one cyl bank, then were able to fire up the other bank? As someone else said, check your grounds, & possibly a ground which was never connected (for the bank that didn't fire at all).
Also, you said, "I have not driven the car since last April". Injectors sitting more than a few months can clog up, or deliver a dribble of fuel. A faulty spray pattern can cause a no fire.
Just putting out some ideas for you.
Also, you said, "I have not driven the car since last April". Injectors sitting more than a few months can clog up, or deliver a dribble of fuel. A faulty spray pattern can cause a no fire.
Just putting out some ideas for you.
Last edited by gMAG; Mar 20, 2013 at 10:29 PM.
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Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 110
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going to check all the grounds tonight, and duplicate the test. If the engine fires on one bank, then i know there is something with the drivers side. I am going to take the passenger's side wires off and see if the drivers side will start. and then vise versa... that might indicate if it is just one bank or both.
As far as it sitting since april, i did start it 2 months ago, and was able to drive it to my buddies garage... ran fine... just with a knock. So i want to say that the injectors should still be good... i know i am getting plenty of fuel. Maybe this all comes back to the 7.4 pushrods and not allowing the valves to open properly... idk. thanks for the input.
As far as it sitting since april, i did start it 2 months ago, and was able to drive it to my buddies garage... ran fine... just with a knock. So i want to say that the injectors should still be good... i know i am getting plenty of fuel. Maybe this all comes back to the 7.4 pushrods and not allowing the valves to open properly... idk. thanks for the input.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2013
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well i was definetely getting spark when flames were shooting out of the intake, so im assuming that is not the issue. but since i put the coil harness in what i believe is the correct way, it doesnt seem to get any....
Since this is a new enigne...Be cautious when trying to fire it. Since spraying a large amount of fuel in the engine is washing out the cylinders. Disconnect the fuel source and make sure you have spark.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
So, last night i double checked grounds, harness, plugs, wires.... all checked out. I decided to check spark, went to crank it, and it cranks really slow again (new battery and starter) and no spark on either side now? this doesnt make sense as it did start randomly on the passenger side bank saturday. so i am dumbfounded. I am going to have a buddy of mine (mechanic for 30+ years) grab some tools from work and come over tomorrow to hopefully help diagnose whatever this could be. sigh.... i am not gonna give up on this thing!
First thing...there seems to be parasitic battery loss. Check your battery voltage. If seeing less than 'normal' battery voltage, re-charge the battery. Then place an ammeter in line with the battery, and verify whether you have ongoing drain. If so, pull fuses/open the circuits, until the loss stops.
Shoot one trouble at a time.
Shoot one trouble at a time.
Ok, since you verified the small harnesses, those are now ruled out.
There can be more than one trouble, here.
A "Hot in Run ", pink lead will supply battery to both the coils, & to the injectors.
As someone mentioned, there is a separate fuse for each bank...one fuse supplies battery (through pink wire) for coils & injs of bank #1, & the other fuse supplies (through another pink wire) for bank #2.
On the bank which did not fire, 'rent' a noid light set from AutoZone/O'Reilly's etc, and verify that while cranking, you have PULSING/flashing noid light, and that the lamp is not on, steadily (or, that the lamp is off full-time). Check each injector on this bank.
Then, on the same bank, verify that you have spark at each coil.
I'm guessing from your original result, that something on the battery side of the defective bank is amiss.
Since at least one bank fired up, after disconnecting the other bank, it cant be the crank sensor.
Hope you don't mind the info overload!
There can be more than one trouble, here.
A "Hot in Run ", pink lead will supply battery to both the coils, & to the injectors.
As someone mentioned, there is a separate fuse for each bank...one fuse supplies battery (through pink wire) for coils & injs of bank #1, & the other fuse supplies (through another pink wire) for bank #2.
On the bank which did not fire, 'rent' a noid light set from AutoZone/O'Reilly's etc, and verify that while cranking, you have PULSING/flashing noid light, and that the lamp is not on, steadily (or, that the lamp is off full-time). Check each injector on this bank.
Then, on the same bank, verify that you have spark at each coil.
I'm guessing from your original result, that something on the battery side of the defective bank is amiss.
Since at least one bank fired up, after disconnecting the other bank, it cant be the crank sensor.
Hope you don't mind the info overload!
Last edited by gMAG; Mar 22, 2013 at 11:00 AM.