Sup guys I broke a freaking head bolt today. Just wanting to know best way to get it out! It's the number 1 center bolt and it broke off about an inch and a half .. What you guys do???

 

Is any of the bolt sticking out of the block or is it all in? Drill and tap.

 

PM NemeSS...awhile back he told me about a bolt extractor/tool (not an EZ-out) that he has used.

 

None of the bolt is sticking out

 

That sux! Did u break it torquing it or loosening it??

 

I was Torquing it

 

Take the heads off, throw the bolts away, and use a new set....If 1 has broken, who knows what others are fubar.

 

Great now I'm scared of doing my engine rebuild...did you torque too much? Did you use the wrong torque wrench remember theyhave ranges wich I learn the hard way lol(bolt broken in flywheel), or do you think the hole was dirty or was there maybe water in the hole sorry for the questions but would like to learn before I jump in the rebuild. Thanks

 

use arp bolts, know I will next time. Just finished a headswap on my 99 this weekend. I chased the **** out of the M11 head bolt threads and used new factory bolts. That 1st sequence @90 (after 1st pass @22lbs) degrees had me sweating, the 2nd made my *** pucker up. I kept thinking to myself...why didn't buy those damn arp bolts. I have done 2 head swaps with new factory bolts, don't think I will do a 3rd.

 

Headstuds ftw!

pull the head, tape everything up. Drill and tap it. sux!

 

Maybe some dirty, but no water, I did the first pass at 22 ft lbs and I started the second pass at 90lbs

 

Good thing my block is on and on the stand

 

I'd seriously consider head studs for several reasons:

1) they are reusable, saving you lots of money depending on how often you need to need or choose to remove the cylinder heads. in the long run they're cheaper than bolts.
2) they take the wear off of the aluminum block threads. I work with aluminum every day, and threads get boogered up incredibly easily, especially if they are not thoroughly cleaned and / or they are used repeatedly.
3) you get a more accurate clamp load as you approach the torque value since your torque is not being used to overcome friction under the head of the bolt AND between the bolt and block threads. the only area of friction contact in the studded scenario is under the head of the nut.

 

Were u using gm tty bolts??

 

Depending on how deep it is you might be able to use a screwdriver and tap it so that it backs out. GL with it. I use headstuds on every motor I take apart. Its cheaper in the long run.

 

do you mean 90* after the the 1 st pass of 20 ft/lb ?

 

I just.finished up my motor this weekend using stock OEM bolts. I found I got nice smooth easy turn for both the second and third torque sequences by using a long breaker bar and not a torque wrench or ratchet with the angle gauge. Threads were cleaned and chased with arp chasers.

 

yes i was

 

How would I use a screwdriver to tap it out?

 

Yea I meant 90*