What's up with Comp Cams ?
This doesn't mean your wrong because there are obviously people having problems backing you up. But that doesn't mean comp cam is forever junk, I'm sure they will, if not are already fix the problem,
since they don't plan to stop making cams
I'm sure they will satisfy any customer who bought directly from them and not used or anything, but I'm not 100% on that as I've never had a problem to call them about. Glad I didn't get a bad one lol
Some people, after reading this thread, have come to the conclusion that the safe thing to do is buy a Cam Motion cam. Are you sure you know what your getting ? With Comp, each lobe profile and duration has a part # so you see duration at 0.006, 0.050 and 0.200 and peak lift. Subtracting the 050 number from the 006 number gives you the jerk intensity. XE-R, that number is 49. Many of the cams Damien found bad had XE-R lobes.
Kip has said (in another thread) that his cams jerk intensity is "around" 55 and he does not provide a 050 to 200 number. This is not because he is being evasive. When you pick a cam motion lobe you choose a lobe lift, say .365 on a 1.7 rocker would give .620 lift. Then you choose a duration from a range that can be ground around that lift. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but the .006 to .050 is always 55 unless it's a proprietary lobe like a EPS. 55 moves the valve on and off the seat gently. A good thing. Overlap also begins at .006 lift and exhaust pressure releases at .006 lift so a cam with XE-R lobes has more idle vacuum than a 55 cam with the same duration. A XE-R cam feels like a cam with a later EVO. These are real benefits that for some applications, can not be overlooked.
I'm not saying a XE-R lobe is for everybody. A XE has a JE (jerk intensity is getting hard to write) of 53 and a LXL lobe is 52. A HUC has a JE of 55
I don't care what cam you buy. I'm just saying do your homework, know what your buying. Know what combination of parts you need to make that lobe choice work and be controlled. Know about wipe patterns, installed height, lifter preload, pushrod measure , assembly lubricants, break-in procedures and oil chemistry. Even if someone else is doing the work.
I still question what is causing the whining in the first place. Was there ever a definitive problem found? Usually only whining I get is from the person I raced.
Last edited by 01ssreda4; Nov 20, 2014 at 08:13 AM.
**** happens, people should be able to understand that. And comp isn't just going to turn there ringer off if you call with a issue.
COMP CAM sets the standard for performance cams. Period... despite what anybody says they will still continue there quest just as GM has... and people will continue to use there products.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
**** happens, people should be able to understand that. And comp isn't just going to turn there ringer off if you call with a issue.
COMP CAM sets the standard for performance cams. Period... despite what anybody says they will still continue there quest just as GM has... and people will continue to use there products.
The difference being if my GM car is recalled they can put a new part in it and I can be on my way.
When a Comp cam fails because it wasn't properly hardened it destroys the cam, the lifters, and possibly the bearings in the engine. Best case scenario I am out the money for lifters, head gaskets, head bolts, fluids, and a **** load of my time and Comp is generous enough to replace the cam. But my past experience has been "tough ****" and I had to buy another cam on top of that.
And for what? No point taking the risk when for about $30 more I can get a cam (custom spec'ced for my build) from some place not having the issues.
No brainer.
And who says all them 27 were installed correctly and broken in., maybe take detailed pics of the cam/install if your worried so then you could provide proof to COMP that it was installed correctly if you did have a problem with it.
When a Comp cam fails because it wasn't properly hardened it destroys the cam, the lifters, and possibly the bearings in the engine. Best case scenario I am out the money for lifters, head gaskets, head bolts, fluids, and a **** load of my time and Comp is generous enough to replace the cam. But my past experience has been "tough ****" and I had to buy another cam on top of that.
And for what? No point taking the risk when for about $30 more I can get a cam (custom spec'ced for my build) from some place not having the issues.
No brainer.
You can go next door and get another cam yes, but when they are the leader in cams than I'm sure they will have problems here and there too...
If that comparison don't work for you than maybe this will. .. just because you grenade one ls motor motor on a Dyno doesn't make them all bad. **** happens. .
I have THE WORST LUCK ever and my comp cam is just fine so they can't be all that bad lol...

Here's the shop invoice.
Last edited by SCHP98ls1B4C; Nov 19, 2014 at 03:26 AM.

Here's the shop invoice.

Realy tho you should be talking to the shop who installed it too,
And he was so embarrassed since this all happens in front of 5 costumers, he just gave me the alt. Which was a 145amp alt, $330 and a good pulley off another alt they had in stock for FREE ...
I saved 330 by talking to the right person(well I was borderline yelling, well lets just say I wasn't being plesent) and taking into consideration they fucked me around. Get on there *** I don't know what else can be done other than being persistent










