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Old May 10, 2013 | 01:10 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by NebHuskersCamaro
ok. and what about the oil pump, need to be upgraded to the standard gm volume for 95 bucks?
I would at the very least do the stock LS6 standard volume pump for 95 bucks if not a ported LS6 pump for 134.99.
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Old May 28, 2013 | 12:35 AM
  #22  
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sorry to bring this one back from the dead but i have a few more questions.

1. Do i need to resurface my flywheel with the new clutch if yes how much would it normally cost.

2. Do i need to get something to make the car stiffer because i have t tops or would my 450whp goal not be enough to require them

3. I am purchasing the polluter v2 cam package from tick with valve springs and pushrods...im getting the oil pump else where, and as of right now i cant get heads yet and was wondering if i could put the camshaft in now and put the rods and spring in the new heads when i can get them or should i just wait and put them all in at once.

4. I need a new slave cylinder, and was wondering the difficulty level of doing that myself and also should i do the drilling mod to the master cylinder or is that not worth it.
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Old May 29, 2013 | 01:55 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by NebHuskersCamaro
sorry to bring this one back from the dead but i have a few more questions.

1. Do i need to resurface my flywheel with the new clutch if yes how much would it normally cost. I highly recommend you have it performed before the new clutch goes in.

2. Do i need to get something to make the car stiffer because i have t tops or would my 450whp goal not be enough to require them

3. I am purchasing the polluter v2 cam package from tick with valve springs and pushrods...im getting the oil pump else where, and as of right now i cant get heads yet and was wondering if i could put the camshaft in now and put the rods and spring in the new heads when i can get them or should i just wait and put them all in at once.

4. I need a new slave cylinder, and was wondering the difficulty level of doing that myself and also should i do the drilling mod to the master cylinder or is that not worth it.
1. Normally we charge our customers 50-60 dollars from our local machine shop.

2. I would do SFC at some point in time along with LCA's and reloc. brackets.

3. You can most certainly do the cam only as of right now, but doing it all at once is going to be prove to be the most cost effective. Now, if you're doing the work yourself then I wouldn't worry about doing it all at once since your labor is free. We normally see 415-430rwhp/380-395rwtq with LS1 heads, LS6 intake, lid and full exhaust with the V.2 Polluter.

4. Since the slave requires the transmission to be removed to install, it is more time consuming and would be much easier with a lift. On the floor it's a 6 hour job at the very least IMO and that would be with someone who has done it many times before. As far as the drill mod, I would really rather you save up some money and purchase one of our adjustable masters. They are the highest quality and best performing master cylinder on the market hands down.
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Old Jun 1, 2013 | 12:16 AM
  #24  
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[QUOTE=Martin@Tick;17382960]I have never used or heard of a clutch masters clutch. On the other hand Spec is a clutch that we've personally used in our customers cars and personal cars with great success. They do have a little stiffer pedal feel than other clutches, but hold up great at the track. The Spec clutches HAVE to be shimmed though!

When you say they have to be shimmed are you talking about a flywheel shim? and are you talking the .25 shim or the .50 shim?
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Old Jun 1, 2013 | 09:35 PM
  #25  
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No a slave cylinder shim. We have them machined custom for our shop and we sell them on our website: http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...im-kit-3-pack/

It should also say 1/16" to 3/8" of an inch and not 1/8" of an inch.
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 12:02 AM
  #26  
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Ok cool thanks...thanks agian to everyone you guys have been great
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 11:34 AM
  #27  
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hey martin, i got my cam in the mail today. i ordered the kit with the rods and springs ect., is the kit mailed with the cam because all i got was the cam and didn't know if the kit was still on its way or if there was a shipment mix up, thanks
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 07:36 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by NebHuskersCamaro
hey martin, i got my cam in the mail today. i ordered the kit with the rods and springs ect., is the kit mailed with the cam because all i got was the cam and didn't know if the kit was still on its way or if there was a shipment mix up, thanks
The cam will usually 9/10 be the first item to arrive when a customer orders a camshaft package from us. If we don't have it in stock it will drop ship from Comp or Bullet then the spring kit and push rods along with oil pump, timing chain and any gaskets ordered will come from us a few days later.
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 04:20 PM
  #29  
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hey guys just thought i would update, and i have one more question.

parts i have bought and ready to go.
1. stage 3 spec clutch
2. Polluter v2 cam
3. brian tooley dual valve springs kit
4. ls6 oil pump
5. ls6 intake manifold
6. hooker comp longtube headers
7. tickperformance adjustable master cylinder

all i need now is the 243 heads, this is where my question comes in. i can either go with 243 cnced bare or complete heads. if i go with the bare heads does the spring kit come with everything i need to just swap over my valves into the new heads or should i just go with the complete and swap in the dual springs?

thanks again guys
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 04:43 PM
  #30  
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If you can get Z06 LS6 heads with the lightweight hollow stem valves, buy that. Otherwise, it's just using the same valves in your LS1 head. Get it bare.

The spring kit comes with locators for the valve guides and new locks. It says they come with seals, so I assume that means new seats as well. So, I think you're good to go.
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 05:17 PM
  #31  
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If you go with any type of CNC ported head, just make sure that the chamber volumes are stock.
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 05:28 PM
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2.02"/1.55" SEATS 64CC CHAMBERS 225CC INTAKE RUNNERS

good or no?
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 10:48 PM
  #33  
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Even bare and stock size seats you will have then to get the valves lapped so if you get heads bare be prepared for that.
To do properly I would make sure that:
1- Valves are sealed on seat and lapped properly.
2- Springs are installed at recommended height with good distance from coilbind.
So unless you have all the tools and are proficient in blueprinting heads, I would let the pros do their job and double check afterwards before install.
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 01:35 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by NebHuskersCamaro
2.02"/1.55" SEATS 64CC CHAMBERS 225CC INTAKE RUNNERS

good or no?
I really want you to verify P to V if you use those heads. The larger intake valve scares me.
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 02:08 PM
  #35  
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Martin@tick What is the advantage of running a larger exhaust duration than intake? I see most of your cams run this set up. Does it make it more Nitrous friendly?

Also is there power being lost if you use a cam with identical lift and duration on both the intake and exhaust? This would be on an n/a setup with out nitrous. Maybe i should read into the cam guide sticky again.

Last edited by pferris; Aug 8, 2013 at 02:14 PM.
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Old Aug 9, 2013 | 02:14 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by pferris
Martin@tick What is the advantage of running a larger exhaust duration than intake? I see most of your cams run this set up. Does it make it more Nitrous friendly?

Also is there power being lost if you use a cam with identical lift and duration on both the intake and exhaust? This would be on an n/a setup with out nitrous. Maybe i should read into the cam guide sticky again.
Cylinder evacuation. I/E flow %. Hold the torque curve flatter higher into the RPM band. Many other uses.

No to your second question. IMO there are no generalities on camshafts. If someone tells you that you will lose power in every engine because the I/E lobe lift, and resulting valve lift is identical...they are misinformed. In some cases this could be true, but not all.
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 04:54 PM
  #37  
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hey, could some one please just put a link to where i could buy cylinder heads that will meet my 450whp goal, im not looking to spend the most money possible just something that will take my stock valves and new springs if bare, or if complete just something that will bolt on and go. thanks
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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 07:49 AM
  #38  
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I would highly recommend Total Engine Airflow Trick Flow Specialties "As Cast" 220cc cylinder heads or PRC "As Cast" 225cc cylinder heads.

I sell both for $1800 dollars, with a spring kit and assembled shipped to the 48 states.

Both of these heads will give you a nice bump in compression AND give you more p to v clearance than stock which is a huge plus with the Polluter cam.
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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 04:11 PM
  #39  
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i would do that right now but i already have a spring kit, and i really dont want to have to pay for another spring kit :/
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Old Aug 22, 2013 | 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by NebHuskersCamaro
i would do that right now but i already have a spring kit, and i really dont want to have to pay for another spring kit :/
Well that's why you take 200 bucks off! No spring kit is 1600 shipped.
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