okay to remove main/rod bearings then reuse?
05-01-2013, 05:04 PM
#22
that is just one of 8. Not dog piling on here. I'm in the same situation.
I'm not even trying to find which one till I pull the motor out.
Now on my wife's Jeep I had to do the same thing and it was easy to tell which one
I'm not even trying to find which one till I pull the motor out.
Now on my wife's Jeep I had to do the same thing and it was easy to tell which one
05-02-2013, 10:11 PM
#23
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Picked up a junk 60 short block last summer for 200 bucks, got home checked bearings one was scuffed a bit, had some bearings I had just took out of my good motor so I put one or two in. Been runnin 9s on spray and 10.3 on motor. Not my normal practice just didn't care about this one. Guess what I'm tryin to say is it won't hurt sht to pull the caps and bearings.
05-03-2013, 02:09 AM
#25
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Is it a dod motor? On the cam swap did you change the lifter tray's?? If you used the dod tray's there is one slot in the tray's the lifter will move and this could have turned and the lifter is grinding on your cam. Spining a cam bearing i dont see happining.
05-03-2013, 08:29 PM
#26
who installed the arp rod bolts ,and why ?from what I have seen on this forum ,arp rod bolts can distort the rod bore ,affecting bearing clearance.take the engine out ,and take it to a good shop ,after you decide what how much you want to spend.if the crank can't be ground consider a 383 stroker .
05-03-2013, 09:02 PM
#27
Havent had time to work on it in a few days. I'm working on it right now. I've pulled off all the rod caps and every bearing and crank journal looks mint, just like the pics above.
I plan to pull off one or two mains and inspect them, and if they look good I'm calling the bottom end fine. Then at that point I have to figure out if it's possible for me to pull the crank pulley and cam with the motor in the car or not. Once I get the cam out I will check the cam bearings and journals and then decide what to do.
I have a new melling high pressure pump here ready to install. I'm still holding out hope that this could be as simple as an oil pump that became weak.
I have done my best to shine a light up from the bottom end and look at the cam bearings and journals. I can see no copper or damage to the cam or bearing sides, although of course you can barely see anything that way and I'm not trusting it as a sole means of inspection.
What's odd is that I found enough metal particles in the filter and oil pan to suggest a problem, but not enough to suggest a gnarled up bearing. I'm just wondering if what I'm seeing is simply due to the new cam "breaking in".
I had installed the ARP rod bolts about 3 years back when this motor was in my truck, I actually had plans for a twin turbo setup and I planned to spin it high, and I had read that the rod bolts were the main weak point in the engine so since I had the oilpan off it already replacing the gasket, I swapped bolts.
This is an 04 LS6 from a corvette, not a DOD motor.
I plan to pull off one or two mains and inspect them, and if they look good I'm calling the bottom end fine. Then at that point I have to figure out if it's possible for me to pull the crank pulley and cam with the motor in the car or not. Once I get the cam out I will check the cam bearings and journals and then decide what to do.
I have a new melling high pressure pump here ready to install. I'm still holding out hope that this could be as simple as an oil pump that became weak.
I have done my best to shine a light up from the bottom end and look at the cam bearings and journals. I can see no copper or damage to the cam or bearing sides, although of course you can barely see anything that way and I'm not trusting it as a sole means of inspection.
What's odd is that I found enough metal particles in the filter and oil pan to suggest a problem, but not enough to suggest a gnarled up bearing. I'm just wondering if what I'm seeing is simply due to the new cam "breaking in".
I had installed the ARP rod bolts about 3 years back when this motor was in my truck, I actually had plans for a twin turbo setup and I planned to spin it high, and I had read that the rod bolts were the main weak point in the engine so since I had the oilpan off it already replacing the gasket, I swapped bolts.
This is an 04 LS6 from a corvette, not a DOD motor.
05-03-2013, 09:36 PM
#29
However, that was 3 years and at least 15k miles ago, and since I just inspected the rod bearings and found them all to be perfect, I think it would have been an unnecessary step in my case.
I just pulled off main cap #3 and found the bearing and journal to be okay. I wouldn't say it was as nice as all the rod bearings/journals, as it had a mild groove in the center. But I don't think it's causing any problems or posing a danger to the engine.
I'm calling the bottom end fine and moving on to the cam and oil pump.
05-03-2013, 10:47 PM
#30
Not to be a smart azz HONESTLY THAT BEARING YOU ARE SHOWING IS JUNK! Are you making a joke here or are you really serious? I can see major damage on the bearing AND the crank journal is also lightly damaged.
Its painfully obvious you have LOTS of something small partitcles in the oil. STOP where you are and tear it down before its complete junk. You need to find the source of the metal particles, repair and REPLACE ALL the bearings AND have the crank polished at minimum.
Its painfully obvious you have LOTS of something small partitcles in the oil. STOP where you are and tear it down before its complete junk. You need to find the source of the metal particles, repair and REPLACE ALL the bearings AND have the crank polished at minimum.
05-03-2013, 11:05 PM
#31
So, what you're saying is that a bearing that's been run for thousands of miles should look like it has never been touched, just like it came out of the box, right? Because that's the only way the bearing could look better in person.
Of course, digicams and flash are often deceptive in the amount of detail they show, and can make things look different than they actually are. Maybe that's why you are saying the bearing looks bad to you.
Listen, I'm not a dumbass. I have been building engines and looking at bearings and shafts for 12 years...just not piston engines. This engine has a problem that is causing weak oil pressure, but the rod bearings are not it. I'm not taking the engine completely apart until I find a valid reason to, just to suit some guys on an internet forum.
Of course, digicams and flash are often deceptive in the amount of detail they show, and can make things look different than they actually are. Maybe that's why you are saying the bearing looks bad to you.
Listen, I'm not a dumbass. I have been building engines and looking at bearings and shafts for 12 years...just not piston engines. This engine has a problem that is causing weak oil pressure, but the rod bearings are not it. I'm not taking the engine completely apart until I find a valid reason to, just to suit some guys on an internet forum.
05-04-2013, 01:52 AM
#32
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What makes you think that you spun a cam bearing?? There is not enough load pressure to spin a cam bearing nor knocking the bearing when installing the camshaft. pull the engine and inspect it and replace all bearing!!! rebuild a clean engine not some dirty *** ****.... there's more to this then a cam swap something was done wrong!!
05-04-2013, 02:11 AM
#33
What makes you think that you spun a cam bearing?? There is not enough load pressure to spin a cam bearing nor knocking the bearing when installing the camshaft. pull the engine and inspect it and replace all bearing!!! rebuild a clean engine not some dirty *** ****.... there's more to this then a cam swap something was done wrong!!
1) this engine ran for 33k miles and 4 years in my truck and never made less than 45psi oil pressure at hot idle. It is (was) a 100% solid motor when I took it out.
2) the ONLY thing I changed since it last ran in my truck, and when I swapped it in the corvette, was the cam.
3) a few years ago I attempted a cam swap in my truck's original motor. I started it and drove it about 5 miles pretty easy, then lost oil pressure. Turns out I spun a cam bearing. Wiped out every bearing in the engine, plus the crank and the (new) cam. I parted out that engine and obtained this LS6, which went into my truck and ran perfectly. So, I have a history of spun cam bearings for no apparent reason, and since this motor was perfect when it last ran prior to the cam swap, that is of course what I suspect.
I am currently trying to figure out if I can get the crank pulley, oil pump, and cam out of the engine, while the engine is still in the car. If I can do that work without pulling the engine, I want to try and leave the bottom end together.
If it turns out space is too tight and I have to remove the engine to get the crank pulley off, then I might be more inclined to turn the crank and replace all the bearings. But then that will lead to needing head gaskets, head bolts, "oh well might as well do this while I'm here", "oh well might as well upgrade that while it's apart" and I'll have 1000 bucks in it before I know what happened.
...After already spending 5 grand on the swap project...
05-04-2013, 02:56 AM
#35
Mine don't look quite as nice as those...but all are pretty similar to the lower half in the last pic. One did have a mild groove on one edge, and one main did have a mild groove in the center.
They may not be perfect, but they're not the cause of the problem. The engine lost 25psi of oil pressure all at once after 40 miles of run time after the swap/startup. That won't happen because of mild bearing/journal wear. It pretty much has to be a bad oil pump or a gnarled up bearing somewhere.
Right?
They may not be perfect, but they're not the cause of the problem. The engine lost 25psi of oil pressure all at once after 40 miles of run time after the swap/startup. That won't happen because of mild bearing/journal wear. It pretty much has to be a bad oil pump or a gnarled up bearing somewhere.
Right?
05-04-2013, 02:58 AM
#36
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here are the reasons i think it is a cam bearing:
1) this engine ran for 33k miles and 4 years in my truck and never made less than 45psi oil pressure at hot idle. It is (was) a 100% solid motor when i took it out.
2) the only thing i changed since it last ran in my truck, and when i swapped it in the corvette, was the cam.
3) a few years ago i attempted a cam swap in my truck's original motor. I started it and drove it about 5 miles pretty easy, then lost oil pressure. Turns out i spun a cam bearing. Wiped out every bearing in the engine, plus the crank and the (new) cam. I parted out that engine and obtained this ls6, which went into my truck and ran perfectly. So, i have a history of spun cam bearings for no apparent reason, and since this motor was perfect when it last ran prior to the cam swap, that is of course what i suspect.
I am currently trying to figure out if i can get the crank pulley, oil pump, and cam out of the engine, while the engine is still in the car. If i can do that work without pulling the engine, i want to try and leave the bottom end together.
If it turns out space is too tight and i have to remove the engine to get the crank pulley off, then i might be more inclined to turn the crank and replace all the bearings. But then that will lead to needing head gaskets, head bolts, "oh well might as well do this while i'm here", "oh well might as well upgrade that while it's apart" and i'll have 1000 bucks in it before i know what happened.
...after already spending 5 grand on the swap project...
1) this engine ran for 33k miles and 4 years in my truck and never made less than 45psi oil pressure at hot idle. It is (was) a 100% solid motor when i took it out.
2) the only thing i changed since it last ran in my truck, and when i swapped it in the corvette, was the cam.
3) a few years ago i attempted a cam swap in my truck's original motor. I started it and drove it about 5 miles pretty easy, then lost oil pressure. Turns out i spun a cam bearing. Wiped out every bearing in the engine, plus the crank and the (new) cam. I parted out that engine and obtained this ls6, which went into my truck and ran perfectly. So, i have a history of spun cam bearings for no apparent reason, and since this motor was perfect when it last ran prior to the cam swap, that is of course what i suspect.
I am currently trying to figure out if i can get the crank pulley, oil pump, and cam out of the engine, while the engine is still in the car. If i can do that work without pulling the engine, i want to try and leave the bottom end together.
If it turns out space is too tight and i have to remove the engine to get the crank pulley off, then i might be more inclined to turn the crank and replace all the bearings. But then that will lead to needing head gaskets, head bolts, "oh well might as well do this while i'm here", "oh well might as well upgrade that while it's apart" and i'll have 1000 bucks in it before i know what happened.
...after already spending 5 grand on the swap project...
save the trouble and just pull the motor out. Do a cheap rebuild a clean out all the oil holes and clean up all the parts and put it back together in a clean area.. Keep us posted!!!
05-04-2013, 03:03 AM
#37
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mine don't look quite as nice as those...but all are pretty similar to the lower half in the last pic. One did have a mild groove on one edge, and one main did have a mild groove in the center.
They may not be perfect, but they're not the cause of the problem. The engine lost 25psi of oil pressure all at once after 40 miles of run time after the swap/startup. That won't happen because of mild bearing/journal wear. It pretty much has to be a bad oil pump or a gnarled up bearing somewhere.
Right?
They may not be perfect, but they're not the cause of the problem. The engine lost 25psi of oil pressure all at once after 40 miles of run time after the swap/startup. That won't happen because of mild bearing/journal wear. It pretty much has to be a bad oil pump or a gnarled up bearing somewhere.
Right?
05-04-2013, 03:08 AM
#38
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that is just one of 8. Not dog piling on here. I'm in the same situation.
I'm not even trying to find which one till i pull the motor out.
march 15, 2013 20:01 - youtube
now on my wife's jeep i had to do the same thing and it was easy to tell which one
february 23, 2013 15:33 - youtube
I'm not even trying to find which one till i pull the motor out.
march 15, 2013 20:01 - youtube
now on my wife's jeep i had to do the same thing and it was easy to tell which one
february 23, 2013 15:33 - youtube
just watched the video
sorry!
05-04-2013, 03:09 AM
#39
I can see all the cam lobes from the bottom and they all look perfect. And, if a cam bearing has spun or walked, it hasn't gone far, because they all look to be seated in the middle of their bores from what I can see from the bottom. But I still want to take it out and look.
05-04-2013, 03:12 AM
#40
I guess we'll see what I find when I get further into the cam bearings. It might wind up that I have no choice but to pull the engine out because that crank pulley is a bitch to remove and I can't fit my puller on it with the PS rack and sway bar in the way.