Chrisn0803

Ok so this is my first time posting a question up on here because before now I have always been able to find exactly what I need. There are many many posts on piston rings but not quite what I am looking for. I recently spun a bearing(long story my fault) and it took out everything minus my pistons and connecting rods. I currently have my block at the machine shop and he needs to know what type of rings I am going to run so he knows how to do the cross hatch. At first I was sold on the moly rings and now I am not due to the reading I have done on this site that seems to go back and forth but for the most part says that they deteriorate and the moly coating wears quickly. Now I am leaning towards the Arkerly and Childs XTreme Rings but can't seem to find anywhere to buy them. Not to leave a sob story on here but my wife just lost her job and we have a newborn so no I'm not able to throw crazy money at some rings. My application is ported and polished heads, ms3 cam, ls6 intake and a few other mods. I have also decided that I will be running a 100 shot and eventually working my way up to a 150. This was and still is a daily driven car and will only be sprayed occasionally. So personal opinions and knowledge on what type of ring I should run would be greatly appreciated. Also, I am new to bottom ends really(no worries Haynes manual and a very experienced mechanic friend) but I need a little bit of help with the sizing of my rings. I will have to talk to the machine shop but from what the guy said he was just going to need to clean up the cylinders that mine actually still looked really good. Not sure if that meant he was only going to go with like a .005 over or if he was just going to run the cross hatch and call it a day. Once again all opinions and knowledge are greatly appreciated!

JPH

iTrader: (2)

Moly top, Napier 2nd and std. tension oil ring honed w/torque plate with around 400 grit should be the best ticket for your setup and needs to get the motor sealed up tight and NOT consume oil. Gap the rings accordingly also. The hone job is VERY cruical.

Chrisn0803

Appreciate the help. So the top ring being moly is that what the machinist needs to know? Also is there anything wrong with a moly coated ring durability/longevity wise? I was reading that the plasma moly are the only way to go but they are double the price of the coated. In other words is there anything wrong with the moly coated rings?

JPH

iTrader: (2)

I would use these 3 brands of rings. Mahle, Wiseco and Hastings. Total seal work well to. Coating stuff works well to. It's ALL in the prep work: Hone, Oil, and break in.

Chrisn0803

Can I get a little bit more information on the oil and break in? I was reading on gmhighperformance.com that you should use a non synthetic for the break in and then change to a synthetic. Is that true? and also what would you recommend as far as break in?

Burken01

iTrader: (88)

joe gibbs has a good break in oil, or a conventional oil like shell rotella I've heard being used..

if he goes .005 over then you will have too big of a piston to wall clearance when reusing the stock piston..

and don't put any assembly lube on the cylinder walls, its too slippery and will hurt engine break in and the rings seating..