Rod Bolts?
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 11,258
Likes: 146
From: Pace, FL
Rod Bolts? I know ARP says to resize.
Katech says you don't, but I've seen a thread on here saying rods are OoR when using them. Since I'll be tearing into my motor here soon, I'd like a little insurance without having to pull the motor and take to a machine shop.
Any vendors or engine builders have any experience with either set of rod bolts? Not just oh I threw it together and it works...
Katech says you don't, but I've seen a thread on here saying rods are OoR when using them. Since I'll be tearing into my motor here soon, I'd like a little insurance without having to pull the motor and take to a machine shop.
Any vendors or engine builders have any experience with either set of rod bolts? Not just oh I threw it together and it works...
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 11,258
Likes: 146
From: Pace, FL
Also, I have seen the ARP 134-6006 bolts, the 8740 material, doesn't need to be resized quite as often since it doesn't distort the rod? Anybody have experience with that?
I figure I can get to them pretty easy while installing new motor mounts as part of my heads/cam/converter/exhaust swap... Just don't know if it's worth getting, then pulling the engine and disassembling it to get the rods resized.
I figure I can get to them pretty easy while installing new motor mounts as part of my heads/cam/converter/exhaust swap... Just don't know if it's worth getting, then pulling the engine and disassembling it to get the rods resized.
what would cost more? spun rod bearing or a preventative rod resizing? that's how i'd look at it. personally with all those nice expensive parts that share oil with those rod bearings i'd play it safe and resize.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 11,258
Likes: 146
From: Pace, FL
Well I have 02 rod bolts. It's not like I'd need to mess with bottom end anyway. If I take the rods out I'm going to refresh the whole engine (and I haven't budgeted for that).
Heres what I can tell you based on my findings. We used a set of ARP 8740 rod bolts in a set of LS3 connecting rods. We measured the rods with the stock bolts, they were fine, (diameter, and OOR). We installed the 8740 ARP rod bolts and the OOR spec was fine, but the diameter was opened up slightly. The machinest said that in MY case it would have worked ok, but what about the guy that does it and TIGHTENS the diameter slightly............no go. We were resizing anyways, but wanted to do that as an expierment to put all the theories to the test. We honed the hole in the big end .002 and used an oversized clevite bering, but thats all been covered before. Thats my findings. Hope it helps. Oh, and always resize, no matter what anybody says, lol. Eric L
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Youre just rolling the dice on this one. It's in your best interest to check...Just like Piston to valve clearance, push-rod ,length, bearing clearance, ring gap etc. You can throw engines together all day long and some well end up on the other side just fine. If you have the cash to accept the risk...go at it. Personally, I would check to ensure it was all good. Think of the logic here...you want to replace rod bolts so you can sleep at night knowing the engine isn't going to grenade at RPMS....but you won't check OOR on the rods which if not correct will grenade your engine...Hmm...makes a lot of sense
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 11,258
Likes: 146
From: Pace, FL
Yeah. I figure I'll just keep the stock rod bolts for now.
Maybe do a refresh next year with new rings, a light hone, magnaflux the block, and add new bearings and the ARP rod bolts.
Maybe do a refresh next year with new rings, a light hone, magnaflux the block, and add new bearings and the ARP rod bolts.
In talking with my builder, GM uses select fit bearing halves when assembling the rods. So even replacing bearings isn't all that simple.
By the time you buy bolts (esp the Katechs) and resize, you can buy 4340Scat I beam rods with the decent 7/16 ARP bolts for about $325.
By the time you buy bolts (esp the Katechs) and resize, you can buy 4340Scat I beam rods with the decent 7/16 ARP bolts for about $325.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 11,258
Likes: 146
From: Pace, FL
I think you're right. I wish GM or Goodwrench would sell an LS6 shortblock for like $2000. I'd just do that over a lot of blocks. New factory sealed LS6 with LS6 oiling and rod bolts. With all new bearings/rings? Hell yes.
WHY GM WHY!? You sell the 350 that way. Come on!
WHY GM WHY!? You sell the 350 that way. Come on!
That's how I did my last build, just bought a 01/04 corvette long block (that's the only way it comes) from the GM dealership I work at for $2600 delivered. only difference from ls6 was cam and heads all internals the same had new cam and heads any way so pulled all the parts I wasn,t using sold them. put down some damn good numbers and runs strong as hell.
That's how I did my last build, just bought a 01/04 corvette long block (that's the only way it comes) from the GM dealership I work at for $2600 delivered. only difference from ls6 was cam and heads all internals the same had new cam and heads any way so pulled all the parts I wasn,t using sold them. put down some damn good numbers and runs strong as hell.
With your car being an 02 I'd leave it alone. The way I look at it, if GM put a warranty behind the LS6's with a 6500 redline and 6700 rev limiter, they're fine with a typical h/c setup that will stay under 7000. In this case if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
FWIW, the previous owner did put ARP bolts in my car ~15k ago and with a number of 6700+ WOT runs later, all is fine.
Jason
FWIW, the previous owner did put ARP bolts in my car ~15k ago and with a number of 6700+ WOT runs later, all is fine.
Jason
Last year in April. I work at a GM dealership in Iowa, I can check on part number tomorrow. I think regular price was $3200, this was for a 2001 to 2004 Camaro/Corvette GM Goodwrench Long Block no intake or throttle body. It come with a Corvette oil pan
