LS6 500-515 HP build, Texas Speed Advise?
#41
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PCM's for less? Serious?
I drove my lq4 with simi stock PCM and a 3600 stall no lights before (upgrade) and then had it "tuned" not "flashed" like in the 80's...WTF?
I drove my lq4 with simi stock PCM and a 3600 stall no lights before (upgrade) and then had it "tuned" not "flashed" like in the 80's...WTF?
#42
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Oh this is completly
#44
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"Originally Posted by Brian Tooley
I'll give up low end torque for top end power most every day of the week... "
Im hoping to hear from him in a day or 2 before I decide what I'm going to do. He seems to be the guy to talk to to get the most out of these engines safely.
I'll give up low end torque for top end power most every day of the week... "
Im hoping to hear from him in a day or 2 before I decide what I'm going to do. He seems to be the guy to talk to to get the most out of these engines safely.
#45
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Stock V rear? Maybe I missed somthing because I have a torque arm setup. I don't have any hopping, just some spin.
This rear end I have not more then a support cover. Not yet at least. I also have an 83 Trans Am that has the Spohn adjustable torque arm on it. And that makes a heck of a difference on that car. I drop .4 tenths off just on street tires.
This rear end I have not more then a support cover. Not yet at least. I also have an 83 Trans Am that has the Spohn adjustable torque arm on it. And that makes a heck of a difference on that car. I drop .4 tenths off just on street tires.
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At least for my car, I get pretty bad wheel hop u dear wot through first and second. My build is gonna start with the rear end and work its way forward. As far as I have researched, all the traction kits and anti hop axles and stuff have minimal effect on wheel hop. I'm probably going to go the 8.8 rear end route. Its cheaper and pretty good up to more power than I will ever have... Its just something to think about really, for reliability's sake. And a ford rear will allow ratio swaps in an hour. So you can drive to the track and swap the gears to some 4.11 or higher and really carve a 60 time to be proud of.
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my ls6 setup is around 430 to the wheel with stock 243 heads
should be a little over 500 to the wheels when my heads, intake manifold, custom grind cam, and scorpion throttle body are done and in place.
my ls6: pretty much got a decent sized cam (mine is 237/243), and all the bolts ons (pully, headers, cai), and exhaust... and that's how i got to 434rwhp A lot will depend on your tuner as well...
should be a little over 500 to the wheels when my heads, intake manifold, custom grind cam, and scorpion throttle body are done and in place.
my ls6: pretty much got a decent sized cam (mine is 237/243), and all the bolts ons (pully, headers, cai), and exhaust... and that's how i got to 434rwhp A lot will depend on your tuner as well...
#48
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Do you have a site where I could go look at the cam spec's. I have a t56 upgraded to viper spec so I can handle the power there. Plus an LS6 Driveline. Right now Im in major reseach phase becuase this car is also my daily diver so I need to strike a balance.
When I pull the trigger I will prob get this car tune on the dyno instead of a mail away like a did before.. I had a pretty easy engine to set up the first time around.
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Who's cam was that? how is the street ability? And have you run it down at the track? If you have what where the et's and mph's when you crossed the traps.
Do you have a site where I could go look at the cam spec's. I have a t56 upgraded to viper spec so I can handle the power there. Plus an LS6 Driveline. Right now Im in major reseach phase becuase this car is also my daily diver so I need to strike a balance.
When I pull the trigger I will prob get this car tune on the dyno instead of a mail away like a did before.. I had a pretty easy engine to set up the first time around.
Do you have a site where I could go look at the cam spec's. I have a t56 upgraded to viper spec so I can handle the power there. Plus an LS6 Driveline. Right now Im in major reseach phase becuase this car is also my daily diver so I need to strike a balance.
When I pull the trigger I will prob get this car tune on the dyno instead of a mail away like a did before.. I had a pretty easy engine to set up the first time around.
and nope i totalled my ws6 before i had a chance to take it to the track...
street driveability was good! no probs at all. it was my daily car too lol
pm me i can send you his # idk if i'm allowed to post that info on here. he carries cam kits like that in stock so you can order and he ships to your door.
#51
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It looks like from your sig you have a CTS-V. I've got a 98 fbody. So I don't really have that problem. What I do have is a weak rear but I'm going to run it till it breaks. It's been good to me so far. And when and If it does I've had good luck with Strange gear sets so I'm not worried. Plus ill be doing the work myself
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I kinda gathered that you were running a CTS-V from the first quoted post there on the first page... I'm guessing now that you scooped the LS6 from a V. if you arent talking about outting it in a V then disregard my post about the rear end. I gave that info thinkjng you were modding a V.
Yeah I had a feeling that might happen. I have a 1998 Trans AM, with an LS6 CRATE engine new from GM in it, with long tubes and all that jazz. Bottom line when I bought the car I new it had the pistion slap issue so I beat them down 4g's on the price. I got the car for about 12,000 in 07 with 50,000 miles on it. The interior and exterior was perfect.
After about a month the pistion slap got worse and I parked it. Yeah modding the much lighter TA but my goals are sitll the same. to get close to as close as 500 at the crank as I can while still having good street manners. My LS6 Rocks and had great manners but Im looking a little more. Im not sure the .030 exta in lift is going to do with the TSP 228R I have to look and see how much longer it holds the valve open.
Me and a number of forum member found the LS6 part number under the Caddy number. It was the exact same from the head, to cam to the sodium filled exhaust valves and hollow intakes. All stamping marks matched up. and here is the kicker. The Caddy number was 3,000 bucks. Thats $3,000 less then what they wanted for the same engine on the Chevy Corvette side. They wanted like $6500.
So I pulled the trigger and bought the 05 CTS-V Engine and never looked back. I did have to pull some of my old sensors off my 98 but that was no big deal. It went in like a glove. and has ran awsome since I dropped it in in '07 but I feel i ned to step it up in power again since all the new cars are creeping up on me again.. I used to be able to blow everyones doors off. Not so much anymore with most offering at least 400 at the crank.
Side note. I'm leaning to the TSP 228R cam with 112 or 114 durration.
Per their site that have discount codes? Where would I find this codes? Does anyone know?
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Thanks
Steve
#54
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Thanks Ill look into that also. From what I read, GM didn't really leave much meat in those heads to port, so thats why I'm a little shy to go that route.
As for people running the 228r TSP cam, what kind of times are you running.
A quick search of the net seems most people are running 12.6 at around around 110. For me that would be going backwards.
Running street tires (275 Goodyear A/S) and and a very poor average of 2.0 60' Im still running 12.6 at 114-115 MPH. I don't want to spend the money and not improve much at all or god forbid go backwards.
500Hp isn't a hard line, but for the work I'm going to do I want a decent improvment. at least about 40hp from where Im at now.
As for people running the 228r TSP cam, what kind of times are you running.
A quick search of the net seems most people are running 12.6 at around around 110. For me that would be going backwards.
Running street tires (275 Goodyear A/S) and and a very poor average of 2.0 60' Im still running 12.6 at 114-115 MPH. I don't want to spend the money and not improve much at all or god forbid go backwards.
500Hp isn't a hard line, but for the work I'm going to do I want a decent improvment. at least about 40hp from where Im at now.
Not only will good cnc ported ls6 heads flow 300-320 cfm (big leap over stock), ported heads and a cam will gain you a lot over the stock ls6 cam and heads. Much more then 40 hp.
As for my '00 c5, it has right around 500-515 crank hp. Stock ls1 shortblock (except for ls6 valley cover/pcv), cnc ported 5.3L heads, custom 227/230 duration cam, stock ls6 intake manifold, stock tb, ls2 maf, 1.75" long tube headers.
#56
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Am I the only one who caught this and is scratching their head? lol.
Not only will good cnc ported ls6 heads flow 300-320 cfm (big leap over stock), ported heads and a cam will gain you a lot over the stock ls6 cam and heads. Much more then 40 hp.
As for my '00 c5, it has right around 500-515 crank hp. Stock ls1 shortblock (except for ls6 valley cover/pcv), cnc ported 5.3L heads, custom 227/230 duration cam, stock ls6 intake manifold, stock tb, ls2 maf, 1.75" long tube headers.
Not only will good cnc ported ls6 heads flow 300-320 cfm (big leap over stock), ported heads and a cam will gain you a lot over the stock ls6 cam and heads. Much more then 40 hp.
As for my '00 c5, it has right around 500-515 crank hp. Stock ls1 shortblock (except for ls6 valley cover/pcv), cnc ported 5.3L heads, custom 227/230 duration cam, stock ls6 intake manifold, stock tb, ls2 maf, 1.75" long tube headers.
Its also a crap shot when dealing with differnet heads. Some heads love it and some not sure much. And a couple of other reasons I'm not going to it be doing that at this time. Im trying keep this upgrade to under 900 dollars. Thats why Im mainly looking at the best spring/cam combination for this setup.
The Head will get upgraded. Ill be upgrading to some AFR is in about a year and I don't see spending a could of hundered in gaskets and bolts twice worth it.
Plus there seems to be a lot of guys with a lot of success with the Stock LS6 heads.
The first thing I need to do is get a base line of where my car is at right now at the RW. I've never put it on the dyno. Thre was no need, my tune was perfect. But now I want to see what kind of improvement I can make with the 228R still haven't decided on the 112 or 114 lsa and there is one other cam by brian Im leaning very far towards.
But thank you for your concern. If money grew on trees I would be doing it, Everything on this car is paid off so its time to put some money back into it.
Last edited by Steve83ta; 06-01-2013 at 12:00 AM. Reason: To many spelling errors
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Well the fact that you're planning on getting AFR heads in the near future changes my train of thought. I wouldn't spend a dime on them ls6 heads. But now you might want to get a cam that will compliment and better suit your near future heads instead of your current heads. Just a thought.
#59
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Well the fact that you're planning on getting AFR heads in the near future changes my train of thought. I wouldn't spend a dime on them ls6 heads. But now you might want to get a cam that will compliment and better suit your near future heads instead of your current heads. Just a thought.
Steve
Last edited by Steve83ta; 06-01-2013 at 12:01 AM. Reason: wrong HP, changed 360 to 460HP
#60
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I'm definitely gonna have my LS6 heads ported. LS6 heads flow really well. AFR heads are like $2600. For the best port job AI offers and a few options like bronze guides and such its less than half the money. I am not entirely sure its worth the extra 1200 bux for AFR heads. But damn, they are some amazing heads. If I had more money I would totally get them, but I'm trying to stretch my dollar a bit. I second what R6cowboy said... Get the cam speced for the future AFR heads. That way you don't have to spend money twice on a cam.