Need help Finding tools for Heads and Cam swap.
03-09-2003, 12:58 AM
#1
Need help Finding tools for Heads and Cam swap. I am going to be doing a heads and cam swap pretty soon and i am looking for two tools i was told will make my install much easier. Where do i buy a fly wheel locking tool? (Its an A4) where do i buy a 3/8" fuel line disconnect tool? Thanks.
03-09-2003, 01:52 AM
#2
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Re: Need help Finding tools for Heads and Cam swap. The flywheel locking tool is a GM specific tool. I'm not sure exactly where to buy it, but I think its more than $50.
The 3/8" fuel line disconnect tool is just a little ring of plastic, and costs a few bucks at any autoparts store.
The 3/8" fuel line disconnect tool is just a little ring of plastic, and costs a few bucks at any autoparts store.
03-09-2003, 03:41 AM
#3
Re: Need help Finding tools for Heads and Cam swap. OK I think i can find the fuel line disconnect tool, but does anyone know where i can pick up the flywheel locking tool? jmX is that your page about LS1howto??? Thanks for your reply.
03-09-2003, 08:45 AM
#4
TECH Fanatic
Re: Need help Finding tools for Heads and Cam swap. Although the flywheel locking tool would be nice, all you really need to do on your A4 car is remove the 2 bolts that hold up the starter (let the starter hang by it's wires), remove the single screw that attaches the plastic starter plate and stick a large steel pin (large allen wrench) in one of the flywheel (flexplate) holes. This will jam against the block and keep the engine from turning while removing the crank pulley bolt. At least, thats how I have done it twice. Very simple if you don't have the specific Kent-Moore tool. And use the jmX head/cam instructions. VERY useful !
Ron,
Ron,
Ron,
Ron,
03-09-2003, 08:51 AM
#5
TECH Fanatic
Re: Need help Finding tools for Heads and Cam swap. BTW, here is a little info on removing and replacing the crank pulley assy. that you may find helpfull:
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Autozone has two different size gear pullers you can borrow. Use the smaller size 3 jaw puller for the crank pulley. Also, you will need a longer crank bolt. The bolt you need is a 16mm / 2.0 thread pitch and 120mm in length (the head of this bolt is 24mm). This bolt can be purchased from NAPA as P/N 2801-225. Price is $5.39. Also purchase 2 washers P/N 8071-035B. Aditionally, if you don’t have a 24mm 6 point 1/2” drive socket; go buy one. DON’T use a 12 point socket. It does not grab enough meat on the bolt head, and may round off the head as you are trying to remove the ‘Super Tight’ crank bolt.
If this happens; YOU WILL have more problems than you would ever want to deal with!!!
Sears sells this socket in a deep-well version made for an impact wrench. This is the best one to get. The impact socket is much stronger than a regular socket and will not distort.
On an A4 car, remove the 2 bolts that hold up the starter. Let the starter just hang by it’s wires. Put a steel pin such as a large allen wrench in one of the holes in the flex plate (flywheel). Remove the plastic starter plate. Turn the engine with your 1/2 inch drive breaker bar attached to the 24mm 1/2” drive socket until the engine stops turning do the to pin hitting up against the block. You will need about a 2 foot piece of pipe [and] your long 1/2” drive breaker bar to loosen the pulley bolt. In fact, I had to use both feet to loosen the bolt!
Once the bolt breaks loose, install the puller. As you use the puller, you will need to unscrew the crank bolt when the pulley hits up against it. Keep doing this until there are not enough threads left on the stock bolt to pull the pulley all the way off. Then install your longer NAPA bolt and pull the pulley the rest of the way off.
You will also need this longer bolt to start pushing the pulley back on the crank during re-assembly. The stock bolt is just not long enough, and, in my opinion, banging on the pulley to start it on the crank is NOT the answer.
Ron,
________________________________________________
Autozone has two different size gear pullers you can borrow. Use the smaller size 3 jaw puller for the crank pulley. Also, you will need a longer crank bolt. The bolt you need is a 16mm / 2.0 thread pitch and 120mm in length (the head of this bolt is 24mm). This bolt can be purchased from NAPA as P/N 2801-225. Price is $5.39. Also purchase 2 washers P/N 8071-035B. Aditionally, if you don’t have a 24mm 6 point 1/2” drive socket; go buy one. DON’T use a 12 point socket. It does not grab enough meat on the bolt head, and may round off the head as you are trying to remove the ‘Super Tight’ crank bolt.
If this happens; YOU WILL have more problems than you would ever want to deal with!!!
Sears sells this socket in a deep-well version made for an impact wrench. This is the best one to get. The impact socket is much stronger than a regular socket and will not distort.
On an A4 car, remove the 2 bolts that hold up the starter. Let the starter just hang by it’s wires. Put a steel pin such as a large allen wrench in one of the holes in the flex plate (flywheel). Remove the plastic starter plate. Turn the engine with your 1/2 inch drive breaker bar attached to the 24mm 1/2” drive socket until the engine stops turning do the to pin hitting up against the block. You will need about a 2 foot piece of pipe [and] your long 1/2” drive breaker bar to loosen the pulley bolt. In fact, I had to use both feet to loosen the bolt!
Once the bolt breaks loose, install the puller. As you use the puller, you will need to unscrew the crank bolt when the pulley hits up against it. Keep doing this until there are not enough threads left on the stock bolt to pull the pulley all the way off. Then install your longer NAPA bolt and pull the pulley the rest of the way off.
You will also need this longer bolt to start pushing the pulley back on the crank during re-assembly. The stock bolt is just not long enough, and, in my opinion, banging on the pulley to start it on the crank is NOT the answer.
Ron,