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HELP! Drilled too far to remove broken flywheel bolt

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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 08:59 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by badazz81z28
Can I get a further out pic, so I can see where in relation the damage is? The main cap is there. Did you drill into the cap? The block? A cap bolt passage? This really sucks, but depending on where it's at, I agree you could likely just tap and install some sort of plug.
She's all sealed back up so I can't get any more pics, but your explanation of the cap makes sense as it did look like teeth, so maybe it was threads.

Originally Posted by td1168
Looking at the first pic you posted it appears you drilled into one of the main cap bolts. Looking at your fix you'll probably be okay if the metal shavings don't go through the oil pump and the bolt still holds
Cool - I definitely didn't go through the bolt, and if it is a bolt, I just nicked the very edge of it.

Originally Posted by LS1MCSS
If you ever have anything like this happen again, just get a left handed drill bit. As you drill use a lot of pressure and the bit will usually grab. When it does, the bolt most likely will screw itself right out.
Noted - although, with the thread sealant patch on the OE bolts, I don't know that this would have worked. After it snapped off, it took a LOT of torque to back it out. I cut slots in it with a dremel and used the biggest screwdriver I could. I used a small crescent wrench on the screwdriver for more torque and I bent the tip of 2 screwdrivers trying to back it out.

I'll drain the oil tomorrow in the hopes that some of the shavings may come out. I really think there'd be minimal shavings in there - as you can see in the pic, the "openings" into the pan are very small - keep in mind the pic is very close up as the crank bolt is an M10 and the hole in the block is 3/16" diameter. If that is a main cap, we're talking the surface area of two threads. Still not good, still pissed about it, but hopefully it's not critical.


Thanks for the responses, guys! As an even further kick in the nuts, I got everything buttoned up and the clutch isn't quite disengaging. I'll bleed the system again really thoroughly tomorrow as I replaced all the hydraulics - hopefully just a little air trapped in there.
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Old Jun 15, 2013 | 06:21 AM
  #22  
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A lot of misinformation in this thread...

if you look at what is actually behind the rear crank flange, you very likely did not need to do anything about that little hole. There won't be an oil leak because the hole is entirely contained within the engine.

as you can see in your first picture, you drilled partially into the side of one of the main studs... i would have just left it alone.


Last edited by RezinTexas; Jun 15, 2013 at 06:34 AM.
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Old Jun 15, 2013 | 08:43 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by RezinTexas
A lot of misinformation in this thread...

if you look at what is actually behind the rear crank flange, you very likely did not need to do anything about that little hole. There won't be an oil leak because the hole is entirely contained within the engine.

as you can see in your first picture, you drilled partially into the side of one of the main studs... i would have just left it alone.

THANK YOU! That's what I was looking for. I couldn't find a good pic anywhere to see what exactly I hit.
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Old Jun 15, 2013 | 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by RezinTexas
A lot of misinformation in this thread...

if you look at what is actually behind the rear crank flange, you very likely did not need to do anything about that little hole. There won't be an oil leak because the hole is entirely contained within the engine.

as you can see in your first picture, you drilled partially into the side of one of the main studs... i would have just left it alone.

Yea...you're right.
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