Ideas on making 500-550 rwhp
#21
Shorty Director
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by TTopJohn
Great post, I'm seeking roughly the same thing.
It can't be done with a 382 stroker? What does that mean exactly - with a streetable type 50,000 mile + durable setup, how far away from the 500 rwhp mark would you be?
I'm still on the fence between all-bore 387 and stroker 382. Although lately, stroker has been sounding better and better - more torque for the street, no potential for resleeved block issues.
Iron block isn't an option for me - A bit of road racing, or at least driving school/lapping events are in the plans as well, so I don't want the extra weight of the iron block hung on the front end. I've put enough weight in the car with the stereo system and what not, but at least it's in the back where it helps me get closer to 50/50 weight distribution
It can't be done with a 382 stroker? What does that mean exactly - with a streetable type 50,000 mile + durable setup, how far away from the 500 rwhp mark would you be?
I'm still on the fence between all-bore 387 and stroker 382. Although lately, stroker has been sounding better and better - more torque for the street, no potential for resleeved block issues.
Iron block isn't an option for me - A bit of road racing, or at least driving school/lapping events are in the plans as well, so I don't want the extra weight of the iron block hung on the front end. I've put enough weight in the car with the stereo system and what not, but at least it's in the back where it helps me get closer to 50/50 weight distribution
If you have that much music then the iron block will give you that 50/50 you are looking for. I am also going to venture to some road racing events. You have to remember the 93-97 LT1's come with an iron block. The iron blocks in them are pretty much the same weight. Those cars have no issues road racing.
#22
TECH Junkie
Thread Starter
iTrader: (28)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Houston
Posts: 3,250
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
TTopJohn - GEAUX TIGERS !!!!!!!
I think 500 rwhp is possible with a 383. I've read around here of a few guys nearing that mark with bolt-on's, heads, and cam on the 346. Granted, that is peaky power and I don't think those rides would suffice as daily drivers. Like I mentioned before, If I have to sacrifiece a few hp & tq to make this car rock solid reliable, I'm ok with that.
I think 500 rwhp is possible with a 383. I've read around here of a few guys nearing that mark with bolt-on's, heads, and cam on the 346. Granted, that is peaky power and I don't think those rides would suffice as daily drivers. Like I mentioned before, If I have to sacrifiece a few hp & tq to make this car rock solid reliable, I'm ok with that.
#23
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 553
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Pimp_Nas_T
TTopJohn - GEAUX TIGERS !!!!!!!
I think 500 rwhp is possible with a 383. I've read around here of a few guys nearing that mark with bolt-on's, heads, and cam on the 346. Granted, that is peaky power and I don't think those rides would suffice as daily drivers. Like I mentioned before, If I have to sacrifiece a few hp & tq to make this car rock solid reliable, I'm ok with that.
I think 500 rwhp is possible with a 383. I've read around here of a few guys nearing that mark with bolt-on's, heads, and cam on the 346. Granted, that is peaky power and I don't think those rides would suffice as daily drivers. Like I mentioned before, If I have to sacrifiece a few hp & tq to make this car rock solid reliable, I'm ok with that.
Back to the topic at hand: I didn't mean to hijack the thread with iron v. aluminum, I just want to keep my aluminum block. Maybe just because it's cooler. Like a ZL1 COPO Camaro was cooler than a regular 427 camaro because it had an aluminum block.
So, how much power can you make with a non peaky 382 Stroker? Anyone tried it? Or do you have to go all bore to get close to 500rwph (475 rwhp is close in by book) with 383ish cubes?
I'm sure you could throw one of those "450rwhp on stock cubes" cams in there and do it - but that wouldn't fit with the 50,000 mile + reliablity and streetability that we're talking about here.
#25
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (10)
Originally Posted by Pimp_Nas_T
Anybody have 2 cents worth about the different rotating assemblies you can use to build a 383/408?
if you go 383, get the lunati crank, good head/cam setup. you will do 500 to the tires no problem
#26
TECH Junkie
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Lakeland, FL
Posts: 3,242
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you are going to get the 383 stroker and need new heads anyways the 408 is only 500 dollars more. With the 383 you will probably not get there with the 408 you probably can get there. The 427 aluminum sleeved motor is gonna be 2k more than you basic stroker.
#28
TECH Fanatic
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 1,248
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, I'm going to be my usual blunt self. You need to be realistic and realize what is marketing hype and what isn't. A 500rwhp 346 is marketing BS. It is either a stupidly large cammed race motor that makes no usable torque with a power band as narrow Kate Moss's *** or it is a fabrication. Can it be done? Sure. Just realize that using even a conservative 10% drivetrain loss you're coming up with 1.68HP/CID. Not to mention the maximum LB-FT/CID which is fixed by the length of the stroke. In the real world, that doesn't happen unless it is a race motor in the world of pushrod V8s.
As far as reaching a goal of 500-550rwhp, displacement is your friend. Add bore, add stroke, good cylinder heads, around 11.5:1 compression, and a good camshaft design will get you there.
The rest is BS and you're setting yourself up for failure. The likelihood of you repeating the 500rwhp numbers of some 382 stroker motors if effectively zero. You'll spend more money trying to hit that number than is in any way sane. I've seen it too many times.
As far as reaching a goal of 500-550rwhp, displacement is your friend. Add bore, add stroke, good cylinder heads, around 11.5:1 compression, and a good camshaft design will get you there.
The rest is BS and you're setting yourself up for failure. The likelihood of you repeating the 500rwhp numbers of some 382 stroker motors if effectively zero. You'll spend more money trying to hit that number than is in any way sane. I've seen it too many times.
#29
TECH Resident
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Huntington Beach, Ca
Posts: 813
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here's my .02. Strokers make great torque but aren't that fun on the street because ti's literally too much to have fun with. Also I agree with DenzSS that a 383 stroker won't get you into the 500-550 rwhp range alone; and that a 500rwhp steetable 346 is marketing BS. I have seen a 382 maybe hit 470rwhp and if that's what you want then by all means go for it; but for reliablility and power I suggest what Cannibal said, get a Darton Wet Sleeve with a 4.125 bore, this will allow you to take advantage of Stage III heads and make more hp. I loved my 388 and the only thing unstreetable about the car was the drivetrain (4.33 Richmonds WHINE and McLeod Twin Disk is unforgiving), never surged or stalled and idled great. I would stay away from an iron block, adding more weight to a racecar seems backwards to me; especially if you're staying n/a it's worth the extra for an aluminum for the weight savings and the heat issues IMO. The bottom line is when you get into the 500-500rwhp there is no such thing as a truly reliable motor, when you have a high hp car thinks tend to break. People who get an iron block for "reliability" can't afford an aluminim block or think that they will magically be spared from any problems that aluminim block users have. But you sound like you have your mind already made up, in your post you asked about 500-550rwhp, people told you no way with a stroker. Then you said 470 with a stroker, it sounds like that's what you want to go with but again why post this if you already have your mind made up?
Last edited by Linear Velocity; 04-28-2004 at 12:15 PM.
#30
TECH Junkie
Thread Starter
iTrader: (28)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Houston
Posts: 3,250
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by DenzSS
Well, I'm going to be my usual blunt self. You need to be realistic and realize what is marketing hype and what isn't. A 500rwhp 346 is marketing BS. It is either a stupidly large cammed race motor that makes no usable torque with a power band as narrow Kate Moss's *** or it is a fabrication
This is what I want to avoid. I've hot rodded my fair share of imports and sifting through the hype is a PITA. Real power can be made with 1.8 liters, but there is no replacement for displacement. My favorite import is a Miata equiped with a 302
Back to one of my original questions,
Originally Posted by Pimp_Nas_T
I think I read somewhere that the Lunati crank is good for around 1000hp and the Eagle crank was in the 600hp mark. My rational tells me if I use the Lunati, I will be using only 55% of it's ability, where as I would be at ~92% of the Eagle's. That being said, I would potentialy wear out an Eagle crank long before the Lunati. I'm I thinking right here?
Originally Posted by Linear Velocity
But you sound like you have your mind already made up, in your post you asked about 500-550rwhp, people told you no way with a stroker. Then you said 470 with a stroker, it sounds like that's what you want to go with but again why post this if you already have your mind made up?
The more feed back the better
#31
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 553
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'd also like to hear opinion/rumor/fact about the Lunati crank v. the cheaper ones. Do you benefit from the Lunati's supposed extra capability (1000 hp v. 600hp?) if you are doing a naturally aspirated engine?
#32
TECH Fanatic
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 1,248
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Lunati makes a good crank, but in general it is way overkill. People sell it and use it because it is easy. 99% of engines do not require a $2000 crankshaft.
The Callies Racemaster is a good unit and runs around $1200 if I remember correctly. The Eagle crank I wouldn't touch with a 10' pole. Not all Eagle products are bad, but for a less than $300 difference I'll buy a Callies any day.
The Callies Racemaster is a good unit and runs around $1200 if I remember correctly. The Eagle crank I wouldn't touch with a 10' pole. Not all Eagle products are bad, but for a less than $300 difference I'll buy a Callies any day.
#33
TECH Fanatic
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: harrisburg, pa
Posts: 1,205
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You can make 500rwhp with a 383. I just made 477 easy rwhp..no tricks or gimmicks..COMPLETE dyno info in the dyno section. I decided to get Stage 2 heads (2.02/1.57) and stay near stock compression. You can get there with Stage 3 or LS6, smaller cc, higher compression, maybe give up some midrange airflow for another ~$1500 more than I spent. Mine is a daily driver and all the specs are posted during my buildup. Stay away from 12 bolts and all the heavy rotating racing stuff. I am very happy with my Callies/Diamond parts.
Hell, I can post 25 more rwhp with my combo just doing some of the tricks these other guys are doing. Trust me you can make 500rwhp in a 383.
Hell, I can post 25 more rwhp with my combo just doing some of the tricks these other guys are doing. Trust me you can make 500rwhp in a 383.
#34
TECH Junkie
Thread Starter
iTrader: (28)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Houston
Posts: 3,250
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by SAM98WS6
You can make 500rwhp with a 383. I just made 477 easy rwhp..no tricks or gimmicks..COMPLETE dyno info in the dyno section. I decided to get Stage 2 heads (2.02/1.57) and stay near stock compression. You can get there with Stage 3 or LS6, smaller cc, higher compression, maybe give up some midrange airflow for another ~$1500 more than I spent. Mine is a daily driver and all the specs are posted during my buildup. Stay away from 12 bolts and all the heavy rotating racing stuff. I am very happy with my Callies/Diamond parts.
Hell, I can post 25 more rwhp with my combo just doing some of the tricks these other guys are doing. Trust me you can make 500rwhp in a 383.
Hell, I can post 25 more rwhp with my combo just doing some of the tricks these other guys are doing. Trust me you can make 500rwhp in a 383.
A 12 bolt or 9" is in the future for this car. Rotating mass will definately eat up the HP, but I don't have the confidence in the 10 bolt to leave it on there with 500+rwhp. Finding a weak link is one thing, being stranded when you knew better is another.
After hearing what a lot of the guys here have to say, I'm leaning more towards a 408.
#37
Staging Lane
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by CANNIBAL
As far as machine work, you don't need the "best" just a competent shop that is experienced, preferably with the LS1. The best is totally objective, IMO. I believe competent is more gradeable. Since you're in Houston, have MTI do it. They're a great shop.
A 408 will be much cheaper and will get you to your goals vs a bore/stroke setup in the aluminum block.
A 408 will be much cheaper and will get you to your goals vs a bore/stroke setup in the aluminum block.
#39
LS1TECH Sponsor
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Reading, PA
Posts: 2,102
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We just made 502 rwhp with a 346 CI head and cam package. Details here:
http://www.rapidmotorsports.com/mode...=1&intYearId=3
http://www.rapidmotorsports.com/mode...=1&intYearId=3