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Ideas on making 500-550 rwhp

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Old 04-27-2004, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by TTopJohn
Great post, I'm seeking roughly the same thing.

It can't be done with a 382 stroker? What does that mean exactly - with a streetable type 50,000 mile + durable setup, how far away from the 500 rwhp mark would you be?

I'm still on the fence between all-bore 387 and stroker 382. Although lately, stroker has been sounding better and better - more torque for the street, no potential for resleeved block issues.

Iron block isn't an option for me - A bit of road racing, or at least driving school/lapping events are in the plans as well, so I don't want the extra weight of the iron block hung on the front end. I've put enough weight in the car with the stereo system and what not, but at least it's in the back where it helps me get closer to 50/50 weight distribution

If you have that much music then the iron block will give you that 50/50 you are looking for. I am also going to venture to some road racing events. You have to remember the 93-97 LT1's come with an iron block. The iron blocks in them are pretty much the same weight. Those cars have no issues road racing.
Old 04-27-2004, 07:22 PM
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TTopJohn - GEAUX TIGERS !!!!!!!

I think 500 rwhp is possible with a 383. I've read around here of a few guys nearing that mark with bolt-on's, heads, and cam on the 346. Granted, that is peaky power and I don't think those rides would suffice as daily drivers. Like I mentioned before, If I have to sacrifiece a few hp & tq to make this car rock solid reliable, I'm ok with that.
Old 04-27-2004, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Pimp_Nas_T
TTopJohn - GEAUX TIGERS !!!!!!!

I think 500 rwhp is possible with a 383. I've read around here of a few guys nearing that mark with bolt-on's, heads, and cam on the 346. Granted, that is peaky power and I don't think those rides would suffice as daily drivers. Like I mentioned before, If I have to sacrifiece a few hp & tq to make this car rock solid reliable, I'm ok with that.
How bout them tigers! check this out http://www.oregonlive.com/sports/ore...4105276180.xml Oregon newspaper story on the Tigers season opener.


Back to the topic at hand: I didn't mean to hijack the thread with iron v. aluminum, I just want to keep my aluminum block. Maybe just because it's cooler. Like a ZL1 COPO Camaro was cooler than a regular 427 camaro because it had an aluminum block.

So, how much power can you make with a non peaky 382 Stroker? Anyone tried it? Or do you have to go all bore to get close to 500rwph (475 rwhp is close in by book) with 383ish cubes?

I'm sure you could throw one of those "450rwhp on stock cubes" cams in there and do it - but that wouldn't fit with the 50,000 mile + reliablity and streetability that we're talking about here.
Old 04-27-2004, 08:51 PM
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Anybody have 2 cents worth about the different rotating assemblies you can use to build a 383/408?


Old 04-27-2004, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Pimp_Nas_T
Anybody have 2 cents worth about the different rotating assemblies you can use to build a 383/408?


honestly, you can get close to 500rwhp with a forged 346 good heads and cam with boltons. that is throught a stock rear though. im already in the 420-430 range with a cam only(ill know tomorrow) and im expecting a minimun of 40rwhp with some good heads. this is all through a 12bolt with 4.56 gears and a posi. im very confident the setup i have in my 12bolt is costing me close to 20rwhp. that is close to 500rwhp on stock bottom end.
if you go 383, get the lunati crank, good head/cam setup. you will do 500 to the tires no problem
Old 04-27-2004, 11:19 PM
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If you are going to get the 383 stroker and need new heads anyways the 408 is only 500 dollars more. With the 383 you will probably not get there with the 408 you probably can get there. The 427 aluminum sleeved motor is gonna be 2k more than you basic stroker.
Old 04-28-2004, 11:21 AM
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Two words = Frutral Motorsports !
Old 04-28-2004, 11:51 AM
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Well, I'm going to be my usual blunt self. You need to be realistic and realize what is marketing hype and what isn't. A 500rwhp 346 is marketing BS. It is either a stupidly large cammed race motor that makes no usable torque with a power band as narrow Kate Moss's *** or it is a fabrication. Can it be done? Sure. Just realize that using even a conservative 10% drivetrain loss you're coming up with 1.68HP/CID. Not to mention the maximum LB-FT/CID which is fixed by the length of the stroke. In the real world, that doesn't happen unless it is a race motor in the world of pushrod V8s.


As far as reaching a goal of 500-550rwhp, displacement is your friend. Add bore, add stroke, good cylinder heads, around 11.5:1 compression, and a good camshaft design will get you there.

The rest is BS and you're setting yourself up for failure. The likelihood of you repeating the 500rwhp numbers of some 382 stroker motors if effectively zero. You'll spend more money trying to hit that number than is in any way sane. I've seen it too many times.
Old 04-28-2004, 12:03 PM
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Here's my .02. Strokers make great torque but aren't that fun on the street because ti's literally too much to have fun with. Also I agree with DenzSS that a 383 stroker won't get you into the 500-550 rwhp range alone; and that a 500rwhp steetable 346 is marketing BS. I have seen a 382 maybe hit 470rwhp and if that's what you want then by all means go for it; but for reliablility and power I suggest what Cannibal said, get a Darton Wet Sleeve with a 4.125 bore, this will allow you to take advantage of Stage III heads and make more hp. I loved my 388 and the only thing unstreetable about the car was the drivetrain (4.33 Richmonds WHINE and McLeod Twin Disk is unforgiving), never surged or stalled and idled great. I would stay away from an iron block, adding more weight to a racecar seems backwards to me; especially if you're staying n/a it's worth the extra for an aluminum for the weight savings and the heat issues IMO. The bottom line is when you get into the 500-500rwhp there is no such thing as a truly reliable motor, when you have a high hp car thinks tend to break. People who get an iron block for "reliability" can't afford an aluminim block or think that they will magically be spared from any problems that aluminim block users have. But you sound like you have your mind already made up, in your post you asked about 500-550rwhp, people told you no way with a stroker. Then you said 470 with a stroker, it sounds like that's what you want to go with but again why post this if you already have your mind made up?

Last edited by Linear Velocity; 04-28-2004 at 12:15 PM.
Old 04-28-2004, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by DenzSS
Well, I'm going to be my usual blunt self. You need to be realistic and realize what is marketing hype and what isn't. A 500rwhp 346 is marketing BS. It is either a stupidly large cammed race motor that makes no usable torque with a power band as narrow Kate Moss's *** or it is a fabrication
Great analogy! Blunt is good.

This is what I want to avoid. I've hot rodded my fair share of imports and sifting through the hype is a PITA. Real power can be made with 1.8 liters, but there is no replacement for displacement. My favorite import is a Miata equiped with a 302

Back to one of my original questions,
Originally Posted by Pimp_Nas_T
I think I read somewhere that the Lunati crank is good for around 1000hp and the Eagle crank was in the 600hp mark. My rational tells me if I use the Lunati, I will be using only 55% of it's ability, where as I would be at ~92% of the Eagle's. That being said, I would potentialy wear out an Eagle crank long before the Lunati. I'm I thinking right here?
These are points i'll be taking into consideration in regards to the reliability aspect. I don't expect a hot rod to be as rock solid reliable as a bone stock Honda Accord, but I want don't want to have to rebuild the motor every 3k miles either.


Originally Posted by Linear Velocity
But you sound like you have your mind already made up, in your post you asked about 500-550rwhp, people told you no way with a stroker. Then you said 470 with a stroker, it sounds like that's what you want to go with but again why post this if you already have your mind made up?
It would seem that I have, however, I wanted to get the opinions of some "real life" guys first before I go and plop my money down. From what I gather so far, 470ish with a 383 stroker may very well be achievable and reliable. But, if for about a thousand bucks more I can hit my goals, then I need to reconsider.

The more feed back the better
Old 04-28-2004, 02:17 PM
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I'd also like to hear opinion/rumor/fact about the Lunati crank v. the cheaper ones. Do you benefit from the Lunati's supposed extra capability (1000 hp v. 600hp?) if you are doing a naturally aspirated engine?
Old 04-28-2004, 02:25 PM
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Lunati makes a good crank, but in general it is way overkill. People sell it and use it because it is easy. 99% of engines do not require a $2000 crankshaft.

The Callies Racemaster is a good unit and runs around $1200 if I remember correctly. The Eagle crank I wouldn't touch with a 10' pole. Not all Eagle products are bad, but for a less than $300 difference I'll buy a Callies any day.
Old 04-28-2004, 03:01 PM
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You can make 500rwhp with a 383. I just made 477 easy rwhp..no tricks or gimmicks..COMPLETE dyno info in the dyno section. I decided to get Stage 2 heads (2.02/1.57) and stay near stock compression. You can get there with Stage 3 or LS6, smaller cc, higher compression, maybe give up some midrange airflow for another ~$1500 more than I spent. Mine is a daily driver and all the specs are posted during my buildup. Stay away from 12 bolts and all the heavy rotating racing stuff. I am very happy with my Callies/Diamond parts.

Hell, I can post 25 more rwhp with my combo just doing some of the tricks these other guys are doing. Trust me you can make 500rwhp in a 383.
Old 04-28-2004, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by SAM98WS6
You can make 500rwhp with a 383. I just made 477 easy rwhp..no tricks or gimmicks..COMPLETE dyno info in the dyno section. I decided to get Stage 2 heads (2.02/1.57) and stay near stock compression. You can get there with Stage 3 or LS6, smaller cc, higher compression, maybe give up some midrange airflow for another ~$1500 more than I spent. Mine is a daily driver and all the specs are posted during my buildup. Stay away from 12 bolts and all the heavy rotating racing stuff. I am very happy with my Callies/Diamond parts.

Hell, I can post 25 more rwhp with my combo just doing some of the tricks these other guys are doing. Trust me you can make 500rwhp in a 383.

A 12 bolt or 9" is in the future for this car. Rotating mass will definately eat up the HP, but I don't have the confidence in the 10 bolt to leave it on there with 500+rwhp. Finding a weak link is one thing, being stranded when you knew better is another.

After hearing what a lot of the guys here have to say, I'm leaning more towards a 408.
Old 04-28-2004, 03:17 PM
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I think APE's 408 just did 508rwhp, check out the dyno section.
Old 04-28-2004, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Linear Velocity
I think APE's 408 just did 508rwhp, check out the dyno section.
That's what I'm looking for!
Old 04-28-2004, 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by CANNIBAL
As far as machine work, you don't need the "best" just a competent shop that is experienced, preferably with the LS1. The best is totally objective, IMO. I believe competent is more gradeable. Since you're in Houston, have MTI do it. They're a great shop.

A 408 will be much cheaper and will get you to your goals vs a bore/stroke setup in the aluminum block.
I agree with CANNIBAL on MTI, except I'd go for the NA MTI 427 which is rated at 550 horsepower - if you have the money.
Old 04-28-2004, 08:24 PM
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It did go over 500rwhp, it was in a C5. Itsovr4u is the owners screen name.
Old 04-28-2004, 08:46 PM
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We just made 502 rwhp with a 346 CI head and cam package. Details here:

http://www.rapidmotorsports.com/mode...=1&intYearId=3
Old 04-28-2004, 08:58 PM
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i just mad 435 today cam only with boltons, 12 bolt with 4.56 gears. i should pick up another 40-50 with good heads. and my car is very drivable and has a good torque curve



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