Engine developed rattle/ticking noise, what could it be? Does it sound expensive? :(
07-25-2013, 02:03 PM
#41
After re-listening again to all LS1 spun bearing videos on You tube, mine sounds nothing like that. At this points I'm leaning towards failed lifter (was ticking before and now grinding on the cam).
The question is, to fix it quick before the race, I have to orders parts tomorrow the latest.
What do I need to order, beside couple of lifters (LS7 I guess)?
Is it necessary to replace head gaskets? Can I order them now already, should I know thickness and bore?
Sorry for these noob questions, never been inside LS1 engine before
The question is, to fix it quick before the race, I have to orders parts tomorrow the latest.
What do I need to order, beside couple of lifters (LS7 I guess)?
Is it necessary to replace head gaskets? Can I order them now already, should I know thickness and bore?
Sorry for these noob questions, never been inside LS1 engine before
07-25-2013, 05:27 PM
#42
Banned
iTrader: (1)
!["MAC"'s Avatar](data:image/svg+xml;utf8,<svg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' viewBox='0 0 50 50'><circle class='avatar-circle-default' fill='%237f3b59' cx='25px' cy='25px' r='20px'></circle><text class='avatar-text-default' x='49%' y='53%' fill='white' text-anchor='middle' alignment-baseline='middle'>"</text></svg>)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: chattanooga Tn
Posts: 1,352
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
replace all the lifters with LS7 Lifters, get new valve springs roller rockers and better push rods. Also get new head studs ARP because when you take off the head you have to replace them and get a new head gasket as well. Also you might as well get a new cam while your at it a LS2 timing plate and a dual timing chain.
07-25-2013, 05:32 PM
#43
Banned
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: chattanooga Tn
Posts: 1,352
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Also call around for the valve springs and roller rockers and find a good price Summit is usually reasonable Comp Cams are very good I liked there service that they provided me and they even emailed me the spec's of my cam. IMO i would go with them and Summit on everything else. When you change a cam out you will need to measure the push rod length for your new push rods i got lucky and didnt need to. So maybe a shop around you that you trust might have that tool and will be willing to help you out. After cam install get a tune it will make a world of deference with the tune.
07-25-2013, 07:18 PM
#44
replace all the lifters with LS7 Lifters, get new valve springs roller rockers and better push rods. Also get new head studs ARP because when you take off the head you have to replace them and get a new head gasket as well. Also you might as well get a new cam while your at it a LS2 timing plate and a dual timing chain.
07-25-2013, 07:50 PM
#45
If indeed a lifter, most likely lifter took out the cam and if it did the lifter may need to be cut out of the motor. That scraping would be the lifter grinding the cam. I dont recomnend you do this in a hurry, at least dont expect to be succesful doing it your first time in a hurry...and I still think you spun a bearing.
I idled my car for a couple minutes with a trashed lifter, it sounded nowhere near as bad as yours, it was barely audible outside the car. Clinder #5 btw, and I had a metric **** ton of metal in my oil. Still do 3000 miles and 7 oil changes later. I have a thread on here tracking the amount of metal in the oil until it hopefully does not die.
I wish you the best bro, im still hoping its the flex plate for ya.
I idled my car for a couple minutes with a trashed lifter, it sounded nowhere near as bad as yours, it was barely audible outside the car. Clinder #5 btw, and I had a metric **** ton of metal in my oil. Still do 3000 miles and 7 oil changes later. I have a thread on here tracking the amount of metal in the oil until it hopefully does not die.
I wish you the best bro, im still hoping its the flex plate for ya.
07-26-2013, 01:28 AM
#46
OK I might still drop the oil pan and wiggle rods to see if any is very different. BUT as I mentioned that rubbing really comes from the the middle of valve cover...
So if I take head off, do I need to get head gasket? And which (3.9" bore)?
So if I take head off, do I need to get head gasket? And which (3.9" bore)?
07-26-2013, 03:10 AM
#47
The cam is not that far from the crank. So middle of the VC could just mean one of the middle rods. Maybe the vibe is coming up the pushrod from the cam, but as bad as that sounds you would hav8e a rocker flopping all over the place. ..you did rotate the engine when you checked the rockers, right?
You need new head bolts too, unless you already have arp hardware. Same goes for the harmonic balancer bolt.
You can reuse head gaskets, I would copper spray them if doing so. But new gaskets are cheap insurance, id copper spray those too, but many do not. As for size, youve got a stroker, right? Youll need a bigger bore gasket, maybe 4"? I dont know for sure, but you can measure or look at PN when you pull. Too big is not a problem, but too small is. I run something like 4.135" on my 3.9" bore.
You need new head bolts too, unless you already have arp hardware. Same goes for the harmonic balancer bolt.
You can reuse head gaskets, I would copper spray them if doing so. But new gaskets are cheap insurance, id copper spray those too, but many do not. As for size, youve got a stroker, right? Youll need a bigger bore gasket, maybe 4"? I dont know for sure, but you can measure or look at PN when you pull. Too big is not a problem, but too small is. I run something like 4.135" on my 3.9" bore.
07-26-2013, 04:59 AM
#48
The cam is not that far from the crank. So middle of the VC could just mean one of the middle rods. Maybe the vibe is coming up the pushrod from the cam, but as bad as that sounds you would hav8e a rocker flopping all over the place. ..you did rotate the engine when you checked the rockers, right?
You need new head bolts too, unless you already have arp hardware. Same goes for the harmonic balancer bolt.
You can reuse head gaskets, I would copper spray them if doing so. But new gaskets are cheap insurance, id copper spray those too, but many do not. As for size, youve got a stroker, right? Youll need a bigger bore gasket, maybe 4"? I dont know for sure, but you can measure or look at PN when you pull. Too big is not a problem, but too small is. I run something like 4.135" on my 3.9" bore.
You need new head bolts too, unless you already have arp hardware. Same goes for the harmonic balancer bolt.
You can reuse head gaskets, I would copper spray them if doing so. But new gaskets are cheap insurance, id copper spray those too, but many do not. As for size, youve got a stroker, right? Youll need a bigger bore gasket, maybe 4"? I dont know for sure, but you can measure or look at PN when you pull. Too big is not a problem, but too small is. I run something like 4.135" on my 3.9" bore.
Also, it's so slow that sounds more like cam event than crank (but I'm not experienced in that).Yeah gaskets are not that expensive but shipping to Latvia is loong wait, wouldn't make it for the race
I know my bore is 3.905" and I have ARP head bolts
07-26-2013, 01:27 PM
#49
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (16)
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 349
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Forget the race. You are possibly dealing with a trashed engine here at this point. I assume by the time between this thread's start and your updates throughout it that you have been driving around with this noise for a month. Whatever damage you could have avoided by pulling things apart at first is now done. You are not going to make the race, just pull the engine apart, figure out what's wrong, and fix it right. Sometimes, there is no "quick" fix. At the very least, pull the pan or pull the cam and check things out.
07-26-2013, 09:17 PM
#50
Not arguing with you, but pretty much all sounds are louder on those bolts. Try it on another car for comparison. Im not trying to be right or anything other than trying to prepare you for what could be wrong. That noise is not just bad, it is really very bad. Very, very, very, bad compared to my 8 failed lifters, one of which chewed the cam. I think youll be lucky if it is just a spun bearing or chewed cam. If im wrong and its a bent pushrod Ill be as happy as you. We all will. Best of luck man, please let us know how it goes.
07-27-2013, 12:48 AM
#51
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: IL
Posts: 698
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you think it could be a lifter pull the intake and valley cover off and look down inside of the little windows. It seems to be usually 7/8 have the most problems.
There is so much that could be wrong with this. Are you sure the pushrods are the correct length? The common 7.4 sized pushrod used with cam swaps makes ticking sounds that you can definately notice, My car used to be alot louder and I measured my PR length with a $20 tool and it sounds a million times better
There is so much that could be wrong with this. Are you sure the pushrods are the correct length? The common 7.4 sized pushrod used with cam swaps makes ticking sounds that you can definately notice, My car used to be alot louder and I measured my PR length with a $20 tool and it sounds a million times better
07-27-2013, 05:35 AM
#54
Yes, I would pull the cam or pop the valley as described first. I listened to your last vid several times again and it does seem like it is running at half time when you drop down to the the bottom so it may very well be the cam.
Fyi when you change the oil a light spray of air into the dipstick tube will get more oil and metal over to the drain. You really need to get a magnetic plug, this is going to be ugly.
Fyi when you change the oil a light spray of air into the dipstick tube will get more oil and metal over to the drain. You really need to get a magnetic plug, this is going to be ugly.
07-29-2013, 05:41 PM
#55
Not much progress here except that I inspected flexplate and all was fine, bolts tight, no visible cracks.
Pulled the intake (but not valley cover yet). It looks like oil is pushed from every single hole. Most oil is near the rear of valley plate.
I know I should probably use catch can or two, but should the intake and the whole top of the engine be leaking like that?
While my poor engine is apart, maybe I should rotate it with the help of starter and try to locate the sound?
Pulled the intake (but not valley cover yet). It looks like oil is pushed from every single hole. Most oil is near the rear of valley plate.
I know I should probably use catch can or two, but should the intake and the whole top of the engine be leaking like that?
While my poor engine is apart, maybe I should rotate it with the help of starter and try to locate the sound?
07-29-2013, 08:25 PM
#56
Not much progress here except that I inspected flexplate and all was fine, bolts tight, no visible cracks.
Pulled the intake (but not valley cover yet). It looks like oil is pushed from every single hole. Most oil is near the rear of valley plate.
I know I should probably use catch can or two, but should the intake and the whole top of the engine be leaking like that?
While my poor engine is apart, maybe I should rotate it with the help of starter and try to locate the sound?
Pulled the intake (but not valley cover yet). It looks like oil is pushed from every single hole. Most oil is near the rear of valley plate.
I know I should probably use catch can or two, but should the intake and the whole top of the engine be leaking like that?
While my poor engine is apart, maybe I should rotate it with the help of starter and try to locate the sound?
Do you have any venting of the crankcase, breather? Anything? It seems like theres a lot of pressure in the case, could also be blowby. Hopefully people that know more than me will chime back in.
07-29-2013, 10:38 PM
#57
Banned
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: chattanooga Tn
Posts: 1,352
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
you have a lot of cleaning to do! These pics are good but it only shows that you have a oiling problem to me that is. Id pull the motor and start disassembling it and find whats wrong with it and while its out just build it clean everything up and get new heads or port your heads. get all new ARP bolts and new lifters. Call it day once its complete and back in.
07-30-2013, 01:22 AM
#58
Rotate with a big ratchet on the balancer bolt. Pull the plugs to make it easy. You wont hear anything for all the starter noise.
Do you have any venting of the crankcase, breather? Anything? It seems like theres a lot of pressure in the case, could also be blowby. Hopefully people that know more than me will chime back in.
Do you have any venting of the crankcase, breather? Anything? It seems like theres a lot of pressure in the case, could also be blowby. Hopefully people that know more than me will chime back in.
I am afraid these 3/8" pipes might be inadequate for 383ci at 13-18psi
07-30-2013, 02:23 AM
#59
you have a lot of cleaning to do! These pics are good but it only shows that you have a oiling problem to me that is. Id pull the motor and start disassembling it and find whats wrong with it and while its out just build it clean everything up and get new heads or port your heads. get all new ARP bolts and new lifters. Call it day once its complete and back in.
07-30-2013, 05:38 PM
#60
Banned
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: chattanooga Tn
Posts: 1,352
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thats not all what I said you must have missed where I said tear the block completely apart to FIND whats wrong with it and while its apart then rebuild it because either way your going to have to tear it down more than that and since you are you might as well put new lifters, cam and other goodies in before you fix the problem and put it all back together.