[QUOTE=LS199CAMAROZ28;17543625]Yep. Sounds fine.

Also you shouldn't lubricate the block and cap side of the bearings, crankshaft side only.[/QUOTE

What he said!!!

 

So basically, just too much lube? Lol

 

I hate it when that happens...

 

Not too much lube but rather lube in the wrong places. But either of those scenarios won't cause binding . Lube between the bearing and the block and the cap could possibly cause premature spinning of the bearing.

 

The block was clean when the bearings were installed. Only the bearings themselves were lubed. I also installed the main studs due to that very reason.

 

It helps when the man caps are turned in the right direction, doesn't it. Your other post showed one of them in backwards.

 

The bearing halves get pressed into the block and main caps dry. Then you lightly coat the bearing surfaces that the crank rides on.

Curious: Why use different assembly lubes in different areas? Choose one lube for everything, don't mix them up.

Agreeing with LS1camaro, build this engine the right way, don't just toss it together.

And what the other guys say, plastigauge everything and check for endplay. Plastigauge is used dry.

 

I respectfully disagree on the plastigauge, Paul. It's good for a sanity check, but it is nowhere near as accurate as a proper mic / dial bore gauge combo. Relying on plastigauge in a place like the mains where tenths here and there matter is only slightly better than taking a guess at what your clearances are.

 

I agree that a proper micrometer is better but Plastigauge will give the builder a basic starting check. If any read off, he'll need to get everything to a shop for a thorough going-over.

As he first reported the crank binds at some point in it's rotation, I don't think he's really solved his problem yet.

 

Correct. A mistake was made and corrected. All is well.

 

OP, for reference I could spin my crank with less than 25 in-lb turning resistance using motor oil as lubricant. Assembly lube is more viscous so you might require slightly more to overcome the static friction. RezinTexas got a similar value during his build. Might be something good to look at as a sanity check if you've got a flex-beam torque wrench handy.

 

Same here, placed block half of bearings in. Drop of lube on each. Dropped crank in spun for sanity check. Dropped main caps, bearings with drop of lube. Followed fsm to the letter tightening and setting thrust bearing.Then finished up torquing and spin check. Checked end play.

Each time the crank could be spun with a finger. Even after final pass with angle wrench. In fact mine could be spun by hand with 4-5 pistons/rods in albeit with a little more effort required. After all pistons/rods installed wrench was needed but still spun pretty easily.