Ironfreak

Hey guys-

new member long time stalker. Im in the middle of building an hpde/autox car. I have fiddled around with what powerplant I want, whether I stick with the Bavarian motors or something different. With the crazy BMW tax we have to pay and the massive support for lsx motors, not to mention reliability I have landed here.........ps, the car is a bmw....if you haven't gotten that yet.

Anyways, I want to keep it relatively stock for reliability. Probably besides a better TB and maybe a cam and the required headers for install that's all I want to do. I've been leaning towards the L33 5.3L truck motor. From what I've read its all aluminum, 243 heads, intake flows well and it has 10:1 compression factory. Problem is they are relatively pricey for used motors at an average of $1300.

I guess I'm looking for some different opinions from the community other then close friends I have. Not that theirs are bogus but they don't know everything either.

What would you suggest? Remember reliability is my #1 priority, I'm shooting for a rolling weight of 2400lbs. so weight is a factor too. All I'm running is an alternator, no ps. no ac and manual brakes. if I have 350-400hp at the wheels that would be more then enough fun to kill me.

Thanks for reading, look forward to hearing your input!

wildcamaro

iTrader: (15)

You are on the right track, for an autox car stick with an aluminum block lsx (ls1,ls2,l33,ls3)...I am running a carbed l33 and love it even with the stock cam...you will be able to find an l33 much cheaper than an ls1 that's for sure and it already has better heads to make a good foundation...anyway good luck with the project

Ironfreak

Thanks man, thats what I was thinking too. I read that the intake flowed really well and unless you were going to go with a F.A.S.T. or something it wasn't worth the upgrade. Do the L33 ever pop up in the classified on here? I can't access them yet. If you guys see one please point them in my direction.

Thanks,

Any other suggestions/ideas?

Gunslinger09

L33 with an LS6 intake and an ASA or Hot cam. You might do a valve job on the heads and add a new Melling oil pump and LS7 lifters while you are at it but depending on the mileage of the L33 you pickup it may not be necessary since you are keeping it tame.

Ironfreak

Excuse my ignorance, but what would be the benefit of the LS7 lifters?

Bad28

Ls7 lifters are now replacement lifters for all of the motors when you go to a parts store whether you have an ls1,2 , etc if you get new lifters they will be ls7 lifters

Gunslinger09

Yep and they are marginally better than the older LS lifters.

kingd_202

iTrader: (7)

Sounds like you are on the right path. I would search through Craigslist and the parts classifieds for the L33. I would suggest using an ls6 intake manifold as it flows better over the truck manifold due to the fact that the truck manifolds are designed for more lower end torque.

As far as a camshaft, I would suggest you check out some vendors on here like Pat G., he can spec. a cam to your exact needs and wants. (No personal experience but, have seen many great results from his work)

Good luck on your BMW.

wildcamaro

iTrader: (15)

There's an l33 on the classifieds right now

Gunslinger09

How's that for a helping hand.

Ironfreak

Awesome, thanks for the explanation. The motor will get torn down before install so that might be a easy upgrade while I'm in there.

I will do that. I have a lot on LS buddies that say the same thing. you ca really make these motors speak to your needs and it's based around having the right cam. I will see if I can pickup a decent ls6 intake for a good price too.

PLEASE GET ME A SCREEN NAME. I can't access the classifieds until I have like 50-60 posts. I'd like to talk with the guy. Or PM him for me if you would be so kind.

wildcamaro

iTrader: (15)

L33 has the standard truck oil pan...an fbody oil pan is what you need, it's completely flat on the bottom, it had no sump "hump" front or back...also the corvette batwing pan is even lower profile than the fbody

Ironfreak

Good deal, I'll have to look into that. Might be easier them cutting and welding one up.

Ok I have come up with another combination I want to run past you guys. I was reading some racing builds on a different site and a few guys actually raved about the rpm capability of the LR4 4.8. They talked about upgrading to:

• 243 or 799 heads
• heavier springs (patriots were listed?)
• nasty cam
• trurion rocker upgrade
• ls7 lifters
• ls6 intake
• ported tb

Taking the engine rpm range up to 7800. This sounds appealing having a lot of range especially on the autox courses that are tight. Downside is it's an iron block. I couldn't find a lot of information on weight. do you think it would be significantly more then the L33? The plus side is you can pick them up for about half the price of an L33.

Pros

• much cheaper then the L33
• capable of higher rpms
• higher availability

Cons

• heavier the L33(by how much?)
• would need to find 799 or 243 heads

v8pwr

iTrader: (19)

The 4.8 does not have higher rpm capability. The limiting factor in pushrod engines is the valvetrain. All of these engines have similar valvetrains. You should get the largest displacement you can afford and add 243/799 heads and a strong mid range cam. I haven't seen an autoX setup that spends more time above 5500 than below. A strong LS6 or LS2 would be ideal followed by an LS1 with 243/799 heads. An iron 6.0 would add 90# to your front end so it's not too bad and they're still affordable.

garygnu

martian at tick has been making great power with 5.3 lately.

wildcamaro

iTrader: (15)

On an autox car I would concerned with the weight split being as close to 50/50 as possible...usually people just estimate about 100 lbs on aluminum compared to iron block...a 5.3, aluminum 5.3, ls1, ls6, ls2, 6.0 all have same stroke, 4.8 is slightly smaller which if built the same might allow a little more rpm but cubes are where the torque is...if you're keeping a stock bottom end you could always use an iron engine an replace in the future when u find a deal on an aluminum short block...

Ironfreak

Hey guys, thank you all for the feedback I really appreciate it. I'm going to put this out there so maybe I can narrow things down even more...if that's possible.

This is me with my little monster.



It has been fully stripped down, that includes all undercoating. I am a fabricator by trade so I built a rotisserie and stripped ans stitch welded the entire chassis. Minus all the parts in the car (I was moving to my new shop) its light enough now that even with suspension and wheels I can pick the front end off the ground. Rolling chassis might be 900-1000LBS. It's lite!

Here is a list of priorities, from most important to least on the engine selection.

• Cost (budget, full time student, yeah I waited a long time to go back. Married.....no further explination needed)
• reliability (want it to run strong with a mild build without hickups)
• weight ratio (aiming for 50/50 distribution, if you know bmw's all the older ones used IL6 that were very heavy)
• power/torque (while this is the funnest part, after looking at what its going into, you'll realize its not going to take much to turn it into a death trap. further disclaimer: the car is getting a cage next month)

The weight is a big factor, I want light, but when the LS iron blocks are only #40 more then the motor that came out I'm in the ball park. Now what makes that weight even more justifiable is the fact that I will be placing 2 more pistons behind the front axle line. so while there is additional weight, it much further back, and at the cost of building a LM4 or LM7 maybe even a L33 if I can find on over the cost of building a Bavarian motor to the same specs is HELLA cheaper. Throw in the reliability of these motors I hit the major criteria I'm aiming for.

Few reasons I thought LM4 4.8 over LM7 5.3. The 4.8 uses flat top pistons, the lm7 uses dish. With the addition of 243 heads I would bump the CR into the 10 range. It would essentially be the same setup as the L33 without the stroke. No matter what motor I get the following will happen:

• 243 or 799 heads (if I don't get an L33)
• Trurion upgrade
• valve springs
• cam (timing chain, ooil pump ect)
• intake
• exhaust
• Ported TB

Again, thanks for all the input, I really appreciate you guys taking the time to give me your thoughts. None of this post may change your opinions but it will at least give you an idea of what I'm working on, and with.

wildcamaro

iTrader: (15)

That's gonna be a FUN car lol, a stock motor would get that thing dancing lol! What rearend are you gonna run, BMW, narrowed 10 bolt, etc? And once this thing is running we are def gonna need a video lol, you should start a thread in the conversion section so we can check it out!

Ironfreak

It's staying with the bmw rear end. For those that don't know much about bmw or this series of car, the 325is up through 1987 was the M3 before the M3 existed. in 1988 It was born and the 325is became the close but not quite car. It came factory with a Medium case Diff, similar in size the like a 8.5" rearend. Its a 3.73 LSD. I have a buddy thats a bmw tech so it's getting a full refresh, and half shafts.

I'll make up a little thread in there for sure.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...n-monster.html

Ironfreak

Hey guys, was wondering if you could give me a little more advice. I have been looking for motors locally so I don't have to deal with shipping. I really want to get an aluminum block, but I think I have come across a good deal I could get even lower if I waved some cash.

2005 LQ4 with 90k miles. Comes with all accessories, harness and ecu. Guy is asking $1500, and I was going to see if I can get it cheaper with cold cash.

There shouldn't be any issues mating this with a t56 as it has the shorter crank output, could you guys give me some feedback on the motor, known problems, upgrades, what will fit what won't. good reliable power combinations.

Will the truck ecu work with a t56, or will I need to have it flashed?

Thanks!