Valves hitting Pistons W/ T-ReX!!! Need help (probably my fault)
04-30-2004, 06:09 PM
#21
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I am wondering if you grind the push rods down some, if that might help? I am intalling the T-rex in a few weeks with stock ls1 heads (ported/ non milled), sounds like I need to buy some clay!
04-30-2004, 06:14 PM
#22
Originally Posted by AustinL911
I didn't **** up the head or the pistons that much. It put a knick in the combustion chamber of #5 and also took a small gouge out of the piston. I've got a set of 5.3l heads sitting here also. Can I just swap the valves?
Also, I checked time and time again, and those dots are spot on. I can't figure out for the life of me why they're hitting. I'm gonna go ahead and fly cut the pistons and throw on some cometic gaskets, and new head bolts. That was a hell of a fuckup.
But it still bothers me why they hit.
Also, I checked time and time again, and those dots are spot on. I can't figure out for the life of me why they're hitting. I'm gonna go ahead and fly cut the pistons and throw on some cometic gaskets, and new head bolts. That was a hell of a fuckup.
But it still bothers me why they hit.
Originally Posted by chrdij
I am wondering if you grind the push rods down some, if that might help? I am intalling the T-rex in a few weeks with stock ls1 heads (ported/ non milled), sounds like I need to buy some clay!
04-30-2004, 06:16 PM
#23
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Originally Posted by chrdij
I am wondering if you grind the push rods down some, if that might help? I am intalling the T-rex in a few weeks with stock ls1 heads (ported/ non milled), sounds like I need to buy some clay!
04-30-2004, 07:11 PM
#24
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Originally Posted by AustinL911
I didn't **** up the head or the pistons that much. It put a knick in the combustion chamber of #5 and also took a small gouge out of the piston. I've got a set of 5.3l heads sitting here also. Can I just swap the valves?
Also, I checked time and time again, and those dots are spot on. I can't figure out for the life of me why they're hitting. I'm gonna go ahead and fly cut the pistons and throw on some cometic gaskets, and new head bolts. That was a hell of a fuckup.
But it still bothers me why they hit.
Also, I checked time and time again, and those dots are spot on. I can't figure out for the life of me why they're hitting. I'm gonna go ahead and fly cut the pistons and throw on some cometic gaskets, and new head bolts. That was a hell of a fuckup.
But it still bothers me why they hit.
Well, flycutting the pistons may set you up nicely for a wicked Heads/Cam TRex package. So, maybe this is a blessing in disguise.
04-30-2004, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by T/A Medic
just because the dots line up doesnt mean its degreed in... fyi
I did not realize that. Thanks.
Also, it was the exhaust valve the broke. So that's a blessing that the valves are the same size.
04-30-2004, 10:32 PM
#30
I'm very sure nobody at my shop told anyone the Trex had to be run on notched pistons. We've even sold Patriot heads to guys with TRex camshafts & the only thing we differently is we set them up with stock size valves 
Originally Posted by Kevin 276
...when I spoke to Texas Speed, they told me I would have to degree the cam and notch the pistons for that cam...look at the lift .609/614...did you clay it prior to installing just to see if it was going to touch or not? How deep is the indention on the piston? Did they advice you to go with a shorter push rod?
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05-01-2004, 03:04 AM
#31
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Originally Posted by Rice Eater 316
Doesn't the trex cam say it hasn't been tested with stock pistons?? 
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/139004-information-regarding-thunder-racing-t-rex-camshaft.html
Austin, did any of the intake valves hit?
Jason
05-01-2004, 03:42 AM
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so, ya'll are running this cam with stock cubes?? i thought it was just for strokers or something... i wanted to trade in my tr230 for this becuase my pistons are already flycut when i bought it...
i might just wait till after summer and wait to see what kind of bigger cams come out and how the t=rex runs at the track before i get it...
i might just wait till after summer and wait to see what kind of bigger cams come out and how the t=rex runs at the track before i get it...
05-01-2004, 05:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Jason99T/A
The TReX V2 cam works fine with bone stock, unmodified heads. I have installed quite of a few of these with no troubles to speak of. For more info on the cam and its piston to valve clearance, take a look here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=139004
Austin, did any of the intake valves hit?
Jason
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=139004
Austin, did any of the intake valves hit?
Jason
Hey man, I wasn't flaming I guess I misread the info of your website.
05-01-2004, 08:41 AM
#35
Austin...cheapest solution is to get some stock replacement valves for no cost. Every shop on this forum usually has piles of them laying around. Or you could get a set of take-off heads for $200-$250 for now, and send your heads out for a pro job when you have the money. This time around, get bill or adam over your way to assist with notching the pistons in the car using the isky tool.
As far as the "not degreed in with the dots lined up" remark. Kindly explain to me how to degree a cam in on an LS1 without an adjustable timing set (i.e. stock chain and gears)? I would like to know for future reference.
As far as the "not degreed in with the dots lined up" remark. Kindly explain to me how to degree a cam in on an LS1 without an adjustable timing set (i.e. stock chain and gears)? I would like to know for future reference.
05-01-2004, 11:21 AM
#36
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Originally Posted by Reckless
As far as the "not degreed in with the dots lined up" remark. Kindly explain to me how to degree a cam in on an LS1 without an adjustable timing set (i.e. stock chain and gears)? I would like to know for future reference.
And jason, I'm pretty sure the intake valves were hitting also.
^^^Still don't understand why it's hitting? I know it looks off in this pic, but I had the crank turned slightly when I took it.
05-01-2004, 11:42 AM
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Something has to be way off for the valves to be hitting that badly...I believe Jason said in another post that his car has about .070"I and .080"E clearance...and you've got negative clearance. You're absolutely sure the heads are stock? i.e. bought the car used?
05-01-2004, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by MyLS1Hauls
Something has to be way off for the valves to be hitting that badly...I believe Jason said in another post that his car has about .070"I and .080"E clearance...and you've got negative clearance. You're absolutely sure the heads are stock? i.e. bought the car used?
05-02-2004, 01:41 PM
#40
My TSP 231/237 didn't clear either on stock heads. I had to retard the cam 2 degrees to get the clearance I needed. I aligned those stupid dots up 50 times and still no good. I even went back and forth one tooth just to make sure my eyes weren't crooked. But in the end I just retarded it for the extra clearance. I have been wondering the same thing as you for awhile now. Good luck with it!
Jeffrey
Jeffrey