Oh well that changes everything..

It's funny about budgets, nobody ever stays within them..

I would keep researching and don't jump to any ideas and start buying stuff just yet...

I would read for a month or so and get a feel for what you wanna get into..

There's a lot of turbo kits for sale because of people buying a "hot side" piping kit or a turbo by itself and are not figuring that you need a whole slew of parts to go with it..

Good luck

 

Lets put it this way... I put 12k almost 13k in my 383 11:1 compression 215 truck flow heads with 5 angle valve job. 228/242 595/595 112 trick flow cam. Super Vic intake with Low Profile Elbow & 90mm TB. Made 473 to the wheels.. Hoping by throwing a 4150 TB on her & a better cam for that intake (232/242 625/625 110) that she will put down closer to the 550 range!

 

550 to the wheels? With a 383? Need a lot more compression and a much larger, solid roller cam. I bet you could hit 530 if you stay hydraulic, something like a 246/254 108+2 and 12.1:1 CR... Those elbows kill a lot of power too.

 

Ok, thanks everyone. I will keep looking to get ideas. If you can think of anything more I will be grateful for the advise.

 

Ya elbow is killing me. I think ill just throw some 1.8 rockers to the Cam to get alil more out of it. But im definitely putting a 4150 on her. Ya i been shooting for the 550 range on all motor. I know legitimately it will probably be around 530 & i cant go to much higher on compression, i live in Oklahoma & all we have is 91 octane. What about alil methanol injection? Think the juice is worth the squeeze?

 

Ok. I've been looking around and have I think a little better idea of what I am going to do. I will keep the 383 idea just for ***** and giggles really, but for now I will go NA just to see what I can do. I realize the 600 mark was a bit far fetched now that I have done some research. I was thinking of getting a COMP cams XFI RPM cam kit, and AFR 210cc LSX heads, and larger injectors and then just see what I can get from a good tune. This should be around my budget with machine shop cost and everything. Good idea or do I still need to work at it.

 

On second thought I was wanting this to be a daily driver type car, and from what ive been reading 383's can have streetablilty issues. So I was thinking of going with a 347 kit from Texas Speed with Eagle forged crank and rods, and Wiseco pistons, Clevite main and rod bearings, and getting it balanced. That should be a good set up with the stuff from my previous post right?

 

Just use a stock crank on a 347. Save yourself $800 bucks. If you're going with a forged crank and have to use the LS1 block, go 383.

Otherwise, ditch the whole idea and run a 408 at minimum.

Also, you need to be clear on your goals. Do you want a daily driver or as much HP as you can get? Do you have an ET in mind or do you track the car?

 

I want this to be a daily driver, but i was thinking of going with a turbo later on down the road so thats why i was getting the forged parts. Also I took my crank to a machine shop and they said when the guy before me spun the bearing he wore a grove in it that would cost about as much as a new crank to fix.

 

Then yeah. You can run a turbo on a stock crank. Grab a 6L truck block and stock GM crank out of a newer than 99 6L or any 5.3L and some forged rods and pistons. That'd be good to 1000rwhp and would be budget friendly. You can't really build for NA now if you plan to turbo later, so you need to be sure you want to do that. I'd suggest build for NA and add nitrous later if you plan to track it. Either way the 6L block is a good foundation and allows you to use cathedral heads or LS3 heads.

If you want to turbo, get dished pistons. If you want NA+nitrous, get flat tops. I would then grab some TFS As-Cast 220cc heads from Brian Tooley with PM guides and his hand porting for 2K. They will work well with either setup. If you go turbo, get a custom spec turbo grind. If you go NA grab his Stage III cam (231/242 112) and run that since it'll do well with nitrous too. It'd drive pretty good also.

 

Those 1.8 rockers are not a good idea..I would not do it..they are made for use with very mild cams that do not have aggressive lobes. Keep in mind that your going to have to do some cutting on the cowl of your car to run that 4150 and a Super Victor traditional style intake.

 

I have a 383 its a well put togther top notch combo lots of $ invested. Ported fast 92/92, cnc trickflow 225, big custom cam 240/256 .647/.647 111lsa plus all supporting mods. Im shooting for 500 at the wheels

 

So what I want is a DD that I can beat most cars around town. Is the 383 idea really worth the cost or not? Sorry if im being as clear as mud with this project it is kinda evolving as I try to learn more.

 

No. Grab a 408. It'll be more streetable and will make more power.

Thompson has a 408 for 3849 with forged goodies: http://www.thompsonmotorsports.net/p...roducts_id=107

Throw a set of quality heads on there and a decent cam... something like TFS As-Cast 220s for 4" bore with a 240/244 cam and you'd have something you can drive on the street and make 500rwhp easily with good headers and a FAST intake. That would be a reasonable setup.

 

I'm starting to get a good idea going about what I want to do I just need help with the cam. I know a little bit about them but not a lot. I was thinking of going with something around a 224/218 112lsa .609/.605, with stock rocker arms and comp cams 26918 beehive valve springs. This is just an idea what I want is a good street cam that has a decent lope to it.

 

Id call geoff at eps if i were you and just spec a cam for your setup for an extra 25 bucks

 

If you are planning on staying NA that cam is too small for your goals. You can go bigger and still be plenty streetable.

 

Just as a curiosity question. I was looking at the Texas Speed website at custom grind cams and they had different lettering(XFI, XER, LSK...ect) after the lobe. Could someone explain to me what they mean. I tried looking it up but couldn't find an answer. Thanks in advance.

 

Ok, i'll shoot another one at you 231/235 .617/.621 on a 111 LSA. That is something someone suggested to me.

 

I've got most everything selected and started buying parts, but I was talking with a friend and we got talking about maybe running an electric water pump. How would that work on a daily driver? From what i've been able to find they can last around 3000 hours and only draw about 7 amps. Running it would obviously free up some power but would it really be worth it?