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Old Aug 18, 2013 | 06:56 PM
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From: Lawson, Mo
Default My first ls build

OK guys as it says this is my first ls build and I was hoping to get some opinions on whether what im planning on doing is a good idea or not.
Right now I have an aluminum ls1 block, heads, and bottom end, also an ls6 intake, injectors, rails and throttle body. My idea for it

Bottom end
Eagle specialty products rotating assembly. PN-ESP-12804 on summit racing

Heads
Port and polish
2.02 intake
1.55 exhaust
Crane dual spring valve springs
rocker arms ?

Cam
Lingenfelter GT9

That's about all I got so far. Any suggestions would be nice. thanks ahead of time.
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Old Aug 18, 2013 | 11:54 PM
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Ls2 chain and lifters ls7 and valley trays ,
I use Martin at tick performance awsome guys and cheap
On parts
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Old Oct 19, 2013 | 03:46 PM
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From: Lawson, Mo
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Ok thanks, I want this to be a good street motor and was planning to run about a 10.50:1 compression ratio. With keeping it on a fairly decent budget I would like to hit the 600+ hp range at the flywheel. I need a new PCM and wiring harness I know painless wiring has a kit. Does anyone else know of a place to get one?
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Old Oct 19, 2013 | 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 88formulafirebird
Ok thanks, I want this to be a good street motor and was planning to run about a 10.50:1 compression ratio. With keeping it on a fairly decent budget I would like to hit the 600+ hp range at the flywheel. I need a new PCM and wiring harness I know painless wiring has a kit. Does anyone else know of a place to get one?
You won't get 600+ hp but you should have 400 to the wheels on that combo depending on the car it's going in..

So your porting the stock 853/241 castings I suppose?
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Old Oct 19, 2013 | 05:23 PM
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Yes they are the stock 241 heads. Its going in a 88 firebird. I have no problem getting a new set of heads but I'm trying to spend my money on different parts of the car like suspension and things like that, if it would get me a lot closer to my wanted mark I will take suggestions.
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Old Oct 19, 2013 | 05:40 PM
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To hit that 600hp mark that will have to be one serious LS1 especially NA!! An easier route might be to do a boost friendly cam and a procharger (D1sc). Stay conservative on the boost and tune and you should be there on the stock bottom end. Just an alternative! Good Luck with the build!
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Old Oct 19, 2013 | 05:46 PM
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Thanks. The bottom end I was going with is a forged rotating kit from Eagle, with a 4" stroke. I have the part listed on my first post. The stuff I listed is just some idea I've come up with, I really only have a basic idea of what I'm doing. I'm open to suggestions to get to the 600 mark without getting to wild.

Last edited by 88formulafirebird; Oct 19, 2013 at 06:17 PM.
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Old Oct 19, 2013 | 06:43 PM
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600 at the flywheel will be about 520-530 at the rear wheels depending on driveline loss. You'll have to have an optimized 383 to do that which equals $$. My referance was to go mild FI on the stock bottom end and yes I did read the first post. It comes down to the budget, FI may be cheaper if you stay with a mild set-up. Oh, a friend has a 02 SS M6 with headers, a boost cam and a D1sc and dynoed over 600rwhp at 9psi.
That's why I mentioned the FI route! Good Luck with the build!
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Old Oct 19, 2013 | 06:49 PM
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The 600 mark and not too wild don't belong in the same sentence....don't need 600 to toe the edge, that's for sure...
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Old Oct 19, 2013 | 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Cra-Z Larry
600 at the flywheel will be about 520-530 at the rear wheels depending on driveline loss. You'll have to have an optimized 383 to do that which equals $$. My referance was to go mild FI on the stock bottom end and yes I did read the first post. It comes down to the budget, FI may be cheaper if you stay with a mild set-up. Oh, a friend has a 02 SS M6 with headers, a boost cam and a D1sc and dynoed over 600rwhp at 9psi.
That's why I mentioned the FI route! Good Luck with the build!
Ok, sorry I had a brain fart while reading your post. I'm not going with the stock bottom end because the guy before me spun the #5 and 6 main bearing and it cut a pretty bad groove in the crank so I'm just replacing it with something better. I have a budget of between 7-9k that includes shop work that would need done. I would like to keep it on the lower end.

Last edited by 88formulafirebird; Oct 19, 2013 at 09:16 PM.
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Old Oct 19, 2013 | 09:07 PM
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If I knew what i know now i would have went FI spent waaaaayyyy more on heards cam supporting for this 383 to buy almost 3 supercharger set ups
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Old Oct 19, 2013 | 09:32 PM
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So if I do go with the FI should just go with a stock stroke bottom end and lower the compression, or can I keep the stroker kit.
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Old Oct 19, 2013 | 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 88formulafirebird
So if I do go with the FI should just go with a stock stroke bottom end and lower the compression, or can I keep the stroker kit.
Depends on budget, and which FI..

Turbo/supercharger are not that expensive by themselves. It's all the supporting mods that add up, especially when you want to up the boost which everyone does..

Read all the FI stickies and know what your getting into, my build is approaching 2 years lol..

That isn't uncommon for a turbo build to take 1-2 years.. It's all the hidden fees

Rule of thumb is make a list of all the parts needed to do a FI build and then double it.. That's the real cost
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Old Oct 19, 2013 | 09:49 PM
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The rotating assembly is getting replaced that is the one definite I do have. I want to keep the motor running on 91 octane and from what I've read an 11:1 compression ratio is about the max for 91, I may be wrong.
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Old Oct 19, 2013 | 09:50 PM
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Do you have the stroker kit? It wont buy you much. It'll allow more cam to be used without issue, but it's really just a 346 in terms of power potential with an added 30ft-lbs of torque across the powerband.

And compression is dependent upon the camshaft IVC + static compression. So you could run 12.5:1 on 91 if your cam is big enough to make you hate life.
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Old Oct 19, 2013 | 09:56 PM
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I haven't started buying anything other than what I listed in my first post. I'm just trying to get a plan started so I can start buying parts and not order crap I don't end up using. I'm wide open to suggestion like I've said you all know more about this than I do.
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Old Oct 19, 2013 | 10:06 PM
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Texas Speed mite have better prices then summit .check out prices for a 383-408 ci long block from some vendors here.if you are set on using your current block for a 383 ,that will be good.but consider building a 402+ using a ls2 ,or a 6.0 iron block.
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Old Oct 19, 2013 | 10:13 PM
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Summit has free shipping and price matching. I've been buying a lot of stuff from them recently...
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Old Oct 19, 2013 | 10:46 PM
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IIRC Tony Mamo's 383 that was in his Vette made 530 rwhp which would be
roughly 600 flywheel but does represent the top rung on the ladder of perfect
built/tuned combos. The Op needs to read/learn/listen and either go forced
induction or pony up some cash for a 600hp NA combo. 9 grand might come
close on the engine but certainly not on all the supporting mods to the car.
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Old Oct 19, 2013 | 11:24 PM
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$7-9k is the budget on the engine by its self, I have a separate budget for the rest. I'm just hoping to save some on the engine to spend on other parts of the car
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