What doesn't need to be torqued when rebuilding?
#1
What doesn't need to be torqued when rebuilding?
Service manual has torque specs for almost ever bolt in the engine.
What are the only bolts that should be torqued? As far as i know...Head, main and rod bolts. That's it. Right?
What are the only bolts that should be torqued? As far as i know...Head, main and rod bolts. That's it. Right?
Last edited by Freefallin; 01-04-2014 at 04:43 AM.
#4
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**** it, torque everything.
#6
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It might be a good idea to torque the cam gear bolts. Maybe the oil pump bolts too so it doesn't come off. You don't want the pick up tube to come off either, so you may want to torque that down. The lifters ride in those little plastic trays that are held down by a teeny tiny 6mm bolt, do you trust tightening those down by feel? You don't want any leaks, so anything with a gasket should be torqued.
**** it, torque everything.
It takes a few minutes to find torque specs
#7
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A newbie should torque everything. That being said, I did with the first few motors I put together. Why? Well I had never worked on anything with the metal/oring style gasket. Now, I can generally torque by feel. Not for head, rod, or mains obviously. Do yourself a favor if you are slightly unfamiliar and at least torque one bolt to spec and copy each one by feel if you are experienced with a wrench. That way at least you know they are pretty dang close. Worst case scenario is a leak.
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#8
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A newbie should torque everything. That being said, I did with the first few motors I put together. Why? Well I had never worked on anything with the metal/oring style gasket. Now, I can generally torque by feel. Not for head, rod, or mains obviously. Do yourself a favor if you are slightly unfamiliar and at least torque one bolt to spec and copy each one by feel if you are experienced with a wrench. That way at least you know they are pretty dang close. Worst case scenario is a leak.
Like oil pan bolts, lifter trays, rocker bolts, intake bolts.
It's just good practice, plus anyone working on their car should own 1 or even 2 torque wrenches. If you don't, why not?
#13
#15
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You can find the torque specs for most bolts on LS1howto: http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?category=1
If you don't find it there, ask here or Google it. Don't just say F it.
And a good rule of thumb is 18ft-lbs if you don't know or are too lazy to look it up. Most bolts GM uses are grade 8.8 and when they go into the aluminum block, they torque to 18ft/lbs.
If you don't find it there, ask here or Google it. Don't just say F it.
And a good rule of thumb is 18ft-lbs if you don't know or are too lazy to look it up. Most bolts GM uses are grade 8.8 and when they go into the aluminum block, they torque to 18ft/lbs.
#16
Most car owners should not mess with their cars
#19
Harmonic balancer bolts
valvecover bolts
intake manifold bolts
timing cover bolts
rocker arm bolts
those are all things i usually dont torque exactly to spec, mind you after you do it over and over you know how far your tools go.
On a high end build, every bolt besides accessory bolts should be tightened to spec with a TechWrench.
valvecover bolts
intake manifold bolts
timing cover bolts
rocker arm bolts
those are all things i usually dont torque exactly to spec, mind you after you do it over and over you know how far your tools go.
On a high end build, every bolt besides accessory bolts should be tightened to spec with a TechWrench.
#20
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sometimes you have to use better judgement. Critical fasteners are obvious, but is anyone really torquing down water pump bolts and valve cover bolts to spec? You just need to develop a feel for how much is needed - not killing the aluminum threads, and not leaving things too loose.
Some bolts you can barely get a wrench on (in car) let alone a huge torque wrench.
Some bolts you can barely get a wrench on (in car) let alone a huge torque wrench.