Iron Block cleaning help.. (Oil & Water passages)
#1
Iron Block cleaning help.. (Oil & Water passages)
I'm prepping my 5.3L to either button back up or possibly swap in some 4.8 pistons, hone, new rings, bearings... Either way, I want to clean all the oil passages and water ways on the block. I've seached, googled, you name it. Came up with nothing. What I'm looking for is a diagram, illustration of the LS1/LS6, 4.8L/5.3L, 6.0L block.
I've cleaned up the exterior already. I notice all the hex plugs in the block. Are they one time use? Do I just back out all of them and clean the passages behind them?
I have a bunch of brushes to scrub them out, but should I squirt them out with brake cleaner, carb cleaner, WD-40, what?
I've cleaned up the exterior already. I notice all the hex plugs in the block. Are they one time use? Do I just back out all of them and clean the passages behind them?
I have a bunch of brushes to scrub them out, but should I squirt them out with brake cleaner, carb cleaner, WD-40, what?
#2
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Tampa FL
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First carb cleaner, then soap and water and your cleaning brushes. I like to use Dawn dish washing liquid. Then blow them out with compressed air and finally spray in WD40. Spray the piston bores liberally with WD40 too.
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Homer_Simpson (08-15-2023)
#4
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take all the plugs out, you can find a bolt the fits in them and weld a nut on it, for the big ones. If its freash or low miles you can use air to blast the barbell out, but catch it. Is its stuck, (the motor got hot or has lots of miles) You can screw a screw into the middle of the end and pull it out. Get a new Oring for it it was was stuck.
take the cam bearing out too, there will be trash behind them. Deburr the whole block, there tons of metal hanging off the machined edges. you need to do all they 1st before you do any cleaning. it take 1-3 hours but worth it. Some race stuff you have 5+ block prep after machine changes.
I like warm water and tide, the get the hone dust out.
take the cam bearing out too, there will be trash behind them. Deburr the whole block, there tons of metal hanging off the machined edges. you need to do all they 1st before you do any cleaning. it take 1-3 hours but worth it. Some race stuff you have 5+ block prep after machine changes.
I like warm water and tide, the get the hone dust out.
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Homer_Simpson (08-15-2023)
#5
Thanks. That's what I was looking for. Mine is an 04' 5.3L as well. So the hex head plugs just unscrew and can be reused? Is there O rings on them? Or do you use RTV or something?
#6
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Join Date: Jul 2013
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I mixed up a cleaning solution and connected up an X Prime with the OPR kit and just let it do its thing. That will pretty much be the only way to be sure to get all the gallies where u cant get a brush into. Then flush the X Prime with oil and use it to prime your oil pump when you got it built.
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#8
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I used liquid thread sealant, RectorSeal No. 5 from Lowes.
1 year and 6k miles later, no leaks.
#9
Did you read my first post? I might not tear out the rotating assymbly. If I do then I will obviously be taking it in as I said I would be. I am getting advice on how I can clean it up as good as possible on my stand without pulling it apart.
#10
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Yup, then do what I already said. My cleaning solution I used isnt a home product either. I used marine clean, which is an industrial detergent, not a solvent. So it wont leave any films behind. And use loctite thread sealer if you want, but you dont need to use sealers on those and skip the plummer stuff from lowes. It doesnt hold up to heat.
#12
Let me ask this, I know it's worth swapping in the flat top 4.8L pistons if I can get them for free. But what if I have to purchase a new aftermarket set? I scanned Summit and they can be had for around $200 shipped. Is the small jump in compression worth the cost? Not sure what kind of performance boost it will give me.
And as far as oil pumps and timing chains... should I just go with an LS2 timing chain and an aftermarket oil pump?