JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

Hey guys,

I'm calling around trying to see what's normal to freshen up my 145k mile stock shortblock.

Basic things:
-Disassembly of the shortblock
-Clean the block
-Inspect the crank journals, lifter bores, mains, cylinder roundness, rods, and pistons/skirts
-Hone the cylinders for new rings
-Install new cam/rod/main bearings (oversize/std dependent on how the inspection goes)
-Cleanup of the deck block surface with mill (if needed)
-Reassembly w/blueprinting of tolerances

What's the average cost?

conan

iTrader: (5)

I droped off a bare block and a box of parts at my local machine shop, here's what I got for $750...

Block cleaned
Decks checked
Very light cylinder hone
File fit piston rings
Line hone main caps
Replaced cam bearings
Assembled short block with cam and timing chain.

The cam bearings were included in the $750, I provided the main studs, crank, rods, pistons, piston rings, main and rod bearings.

Also my rotating assembley was ballanced at texas speed when I bought my crank.

usdmholden

Last block I had machined was a Ford A4, it was $800 for:

Cleaning
Overbore and hone
Line bore mains
Equalize decks
Hone lifter bores
Cam bearings installed
Main bearings in a box
ARP main studs installed during line bore

I paid more to have the decks equalized, otherwise they just cut the same amount off each and one can still be higher than the other. Machine work on an LS won't be much different.

If you want them to assemble the short block, and make all the measurements, and machine to fit, and balance, I bet you will be up between $2000 and $2500. There is alot of time involved if it's not just slapped together, and shop rates for people who know what they are doing aren't cheap.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

Yeah, I've found that out. I've called a couple of shops here I've heard good things about. For assembly (using basically all my stock parts), the machine work, new bearings, new rings... Between $1200-1500. And all have said I'd probably need new pistons and if I do that and need to balance the assembly, might as well throw some forged rods in there as well.

So that $2000-2500 seems pretty accurate.

2000PewterT/A

For 750 dollars I got this,
Line Hone mains and cam bore
New cam bearings installed
Decked Block
Bored/hone with torque plates to 3.903
Balanced entire rotating assembly, supplied by me
Clean and pressure test block
File fit the rings to each cylinder
Used all ARP hardware supplied by me for the machining.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

750 is a good price. I'm getting closer to 900 on the machine work.

Jenson

iTrader: (32)

I really wish people would stop using the term fresh engine...IDK why but it bugs me. To rebuild a good stock bottom end, you should technically only need a hone as far as the machining goes. All the other stuff is "blue printing" it, or measuring everything and ordering the right size bearings. Honing is $200, balance is also $200. I never charge for blue printing as long as I get to re assemble the engine. Ive had guys walk away once they realize how much money all this stuff cost's, and then I'll charge $50 for my time.

Do not deck the block if at all possible. Pistons come out of the hole .007-.008 from the factory, deck the head and let the headgasket do the rest. I usually check the block for flatness, and even on some that have had headgasket failure there was only .003" worth of warpage

Rise of the Phoenix

iTrader: (27)

If you do all that stuff you're talking about Jake, I'd just fork out a little extra money and purchase a stroker shortblock.

SWEET98SS

iTrader: (8)

I had my shortblock redone, new pistons, bearings, boared .010. It was around $2000 and took about 10 weeks. I should have just bought one already done and sold the old shortblock, would have been cheaper.

I am in the same boat once again, need new rings, maybe pistons again. I have been eyeing, Thompson Motorsports as the prices are pretty darn good.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

Jenson, you're right. The actual machine work is very minimal. The cost comes from the hourly rate charged to check out everything and blueprint it. Also, I'm having them build it, so that's part of that cost as well.

If I'm looking at $1200 for new bearings + machine cost/blueprint/assembly + the cost of the forged rotating assembly, then yes, it's worth it to look at it that way. Then I'm getting close to just dropping a 408 or something in there ha.

Rise of the Phoenix

iTrader: (27)

Sell what you got and get a 408. You know you'll be doing it later on down the road anyway so just spend money once.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

I really don't want an iron block in there tho. That's why I don't do that.

And down the road I'm doing a supercharger. A 347 would be fine with a supercharger.

Spending thousands upon thousands MORE... I want more than another 40HP. I want like another 250.

Jenson

iTrader: (32)

Sounds like I'm charging way to little to build engine's then lol. If you plan to supercharge it later, just do rods and pistons now, stock crank will be fine. Try to go with a 3.905" bore so that you have the possibility of 3.908" if it needs to be rebuilt ever again. You might even be able to go loose on the 3.989" bore but I doubt it at 145K miles.

usdmholden

I you are going to do a blower, I wouldn't bother with a bigger displacement engine. Forged pistons, good rods, floating pins, stock crank, and big intake ports.

Spend an extra couple hundred on a smaller blower pulley, and tuning. That will be 50-80 hp additional for a few hundred bucks.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

Where are you Jenson? lol

And if I do the supercharger route, I'll have too much compression. But it's easier to change heads than rebuild the shortblock.

Also, I haven't ruled out just hitting it with nitrous. Either way, the 347 would be fine.

mcdonald77

iTrader: (21)

LQ9, I got a hot tank, bore, hone, new cam bearings installed, balanced the rotating assembly all for $450. It helped that I dropped it off and didn't get it back until 6 months later... Pretty sure ill never get that discount again. He's a sprint car engine builder and I happened to drop off in the middle of race season. Said, time was not an issue for me. Going stong 18,000 miles later!

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

Yeah, the two guys I've talked to more than anyone build race engines for sprint cars. They both have nice shops and would do the following:

Blueprint tolerances
Hot tank and pressure test block
Line Hone mains and cam bore
New cam bearings installed
Check lifter bores and hone if needed
Deck Block
Honed with torque plates to 3.905"
Polish and inspect stock crank
Balanced entire rotating assembly
File fit the rings to each cylinder
Assemble shortblock

That's in the $1300 range from both of them.

I just supply the pistons, rings, rods, and main/rod bearings.

Always2Slow

iTrader: (8)

Nothing wrong with a forged 347. The thing you need to do most is be honest with yourself. Your much better getting something along the lines of a 408 if your not truly serious about buying that blower. The iron block shouldn't scare you. Its more durable and you will have less issues with the cylinder walls ballooning out or distorting.

chevybayboy

iTrader: (6)

They told me 1500 @ LME been looking for another shop here in the Houston area That's a little cheaper I already have all my parts I just need some machine work cam bearings installed and.. hot tank along with reassemble

Jenson

iTrader: (32)

I'm a big fan of the aluminum block, in my drift car. For a street car, I could care less if its iron or ally though. Since you have the engine might as well use it for your moderate power goals. Swapping over to some 317's later on with the blower would be cheap and easy too. I'm in Braselton GA. $1300 isnt a bad price for a reputable LSX builder. Overhead in those big shops is killer.