Time for a rebuild, Again!!!!
10-12-2013, 11:00 PM
#1
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Time for a rebuild, Again!!!! So my motor ran rich when I rebuilt it last time, all new bottom end, had the heads ported, new cam. Same mods as in Sig. I have about 15,000 miles on it now and it has excessive blowby. I am sure it will need a hone and rings, if it needs pistons, I will forge it.
I am thinking about different options but I dont want to spend a fortune, no turbo or supercharger.
I was thinking about changing the below items. It doesnt seem like for the money it cost to get a ARH headers and a FAST intake, it would be worth it for something I drive on the street, track it twice a year.
- BBK Intake and throttle body
- Cam
- Headers
I was also thinking about setting up the shortblock for nitrous, forged pistons and clearances.
Let me know what you guys think, I am not trying to break the bank on this build.
I am thinking about different options but I dont want to spend a fortune, no turbo or supercharger.
I was thinking about changing the below items. It doesnt seem like for the money it cost to get a ARH headers and a FAST intake, it would be worth it for something I drive on the street, track it twice a year.
- BBK Intake and throttle body
- Cam
- Headers
I was also thinking about setting up the shortblock for nitrous, forged pistons and clearances.
Let me know what you guys think, I am not trying to break the bank on this build.
10-12-2013, 11:18 PM
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IMO save your money on the BBK. It really doesn't provide any great gains and gets really hot quickly. My buddy runs it on his car and it did nothing. IMO port your intake or get a FAST.
10-12-2013, 11:24 PM
#3
That's bs about the bbk a member on here did comparison and it did better then the Ls6 slightly lower then the fast... and that sucks you have to rebuild again.. do you know why your getting the blowby did you take it easy on the motor after rebuild how did you get your rings to set?
10-12-2013, 11:27 PM
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I took it easy for a couple hundred miles, then had it tuned. It had an issue on the dyno, mechanic put the larger injectors in and paint got in them, ran rich as hell, he tuned around it. I drove it home 1.5 hours and diagnosed a clogged injector.
How are you supposed to break these motors in?
Just a side note, I already have the BBK intake, was thinking about ditching it for a fast but for the money, it doesnt see worth it, sell mine for $300, buy one for $800?
How are you supposed to break these motors in?
Just a side note, I already have the BBK intake, was thinking about ditching it for a fast but for the money, it doesnt see worth it, sell mine for $300, buy one for $800?
10-12-2013, 11:32 PM
#5
I hear you get the motor warmed up do a few 1/2 then 3/4 then wot to get the rings to set you only have that quick window maybe That's why your going to need new rings... I'd stick with the bbk the fast made 6-8 how over the bbk... plus you can port the bbk and run nitrous... I'm in the process of rebuilding my motor I'm going with 383 rotating assembly got all parts just need to pull motor and take it to machine shop
10-12-2013, 11:36 PM
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Im hoping its only rings, if not I am going to look for a new shortblock. Machine shops around here take forever. Im going to try to port my BBK intake and TB while its apart.
10-12-2013, 11:44 PM
#7
It sounds like rings... but if your going to get a short block check out Thompson a vendor on here has the cheapest short block am d they are warranty... and I hear he does great work I spoke with him a few times really cool guy I was going to get a short block fringing but went a different route
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10-13-2013, 06:24 PM
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That's bs about the bbk a member on here did comparison and it did better then the Ls6 slightly lower then the fast... and that sucks you have to rebuild again.. do you know why your getting the blowby did you take it easy on the motor after rebuild how did you get your rings to set?
10-13-2013, 06:31 PM
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I hear you get the motor warmed up do a few 1/2 then 3/4 then wot to get the rings to set you only have that quick window maybe That's why your going to need new rings... I'd stick with the bbk the fast made 6-8 how over the bbk... plus you can port the bbk and run nitrous... I'm in the process of rebuilding my motor I'm going with 383 rotating assembly got all parts just need to pull motor and take it to machine shop
It sounds like rings... but if your going to get a short block check out Thompson a vendor on here has the cheapest short block am d they are warranty... and I hear he does great work I spoke with him a few times really cool guy I was going to get a short block fringing but went a different route
10-13-2013, 07:44 PM
#11
do some research its free 8 hp isn't worth the extra moneys yes its dyno proven , and your telling me dyno number don't mean anything right ??? your a joke...and I hear this from rept engine builders
10-13-2013, 07:47 PM
#12
do you have a fast?? do you have a bbk ?? have you driven in either ?? didn't think so I have the bbk my body has a fast before my mods with my intake and long tube I was beating him with his fast talk what you know....
10-13-2013, 08:08 PM
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You don't even know me to know what I have or don't have. I would never buy a BBK after several of my friends, including my former roommate had one. They get heat soaked very quickly and are a POS! Your buddies car must have been a turd or he couldn't drive. I am talking about what I know and you are giving this guy BS advice. Hear is a question for you..... You admitted the FAST provides more HP over the BBK, right? Its a proven intake, then add a nice H/C setup to it and it will blow its load all over the BBK.
10-13-2013, 08:19 PM
#14
I'm going to post solid results next weekend that will prove the difference between the BBK SSI with 85 mm TB and the FAST 92 mm with a 90 mm TB. Just had my car put on a mustang dyno a couple weeks ago with the build in my sig and I'm going back to the exact same dyno this weekend with the fast intake and TB.
10-13-2013, 09:04 PM
#15
You don't even know me to know what I have or don't have. I would never buy a BBK after several of my friends, including my former roommate had one. They get heat soaked very quickly and are a POS! Your buddies car must have been a turd or he couldn't drive. I am talking about what I know and you are giving this guy BS advice. Hear is a question for you..... You admitted the FAST provides more HP over the BBK, right? Its a proven intake, then add a nice H/C setup to it and it will blow its load all over the BBK.
10-13-2013, 09:05 PM
#16
I'm going to post solid results next weekend that will prove the difference between the BBK SSI with 85 mm TB and the FAST 92 mm with a 90 mm TB. Just had my car put on a mustang dyno a couple weeks ago with the build in my sig and I'm going back to the exact same dyno this weekend with the fast intake and TB.
10-13-2013, 09:19 PM
#17
I'm going to post solid results next weekend that will prove the difference between the BBK SSI with 85 mm TB and the FAST 92 mm with a 90 mm TB. Just had my car put on a mustang dyno a couple weeks ago with the build in my sig and I'm going back to the exact same dyno this weekend with the fast intake and TB.
10-13-2013, 09:23 PM
#18
The only way I'd swap headers is if you plan to run Kooks True Duals and needed to get the Kooks headers for an easier swap. Or if you wanted to run the TSP 1-7/8" headers. You'll pick up a good 10rwhp going to a 1-7/8" header, whichever brand. The TSP headers are stainless and don't cost a fortune.
The BBK is trash. I'd sell it and try to get an LS6. If you're lucky, that won't cost you much. I'd probably stay away from the FAST due to the investment involved. Big heads/cam or a big motor, I'd do the FAST, since it'd be worth the investment given the rest of the cash involved.
The cam is preference. If it drives nice and makes decent power. I'd keep it. Going to more brutal lobes will actually make it drive nicer if you keep the .050" numbers the same. The seat-to-seat duration will be less with a more aggressive profile and actually drive better due to decreased overlap. If the profile stays relatively the same size, you won't gain much power - you'll just increase the wear on your valvetrain.
The BBK is trash. I'd sell it and try to get an LS6. If you're lucky, that won't cost you much. I'd probably stay away from the FAST due to the investment involved. Big heads/cam or a big motor, I'd do the FAST, since it'd be worth the investment given the rest of the cash involved.
The cam is preference. If it drives nice and makes decent power. I'd keep it. Going to more brutal lobes will actually make it drive nicer if you keep the .050" numbers the same. The seat-to-seat duration will be less with a more aggressive profile and actually drive better due to decreased overlap. If the profile stays relatively the same size, you won't gain much power - you'll just increase the wear on your valvetrain.
10-13-2013, 09:33 PM
#19
The only way I'd swap headers is if you plan to run Kooks True Duals and needed to get the Kooks headers for an easier swap. Or if you wanted to run the TSP 1-7/8" headers. You'll pick up a good 10rwhp going to a 1-7/8" header, whichever brand. The TSP headers are stainless and don't cost a fortune.
The BBK is trash. I'd sell it and try to get an LS6. If you're lucky, that won't cost you much. I'd probably stay away from the FAST due to the investment involved. Big heads/cam or a big motor, I'd do the FAST, since it'd be worth the investment given the rest of the cash involved.
The cam is preference. If it drives nice and makes decent power. I'd keep it. Going to more brutal lobes will actually make it drive nicer if you keep the .050" numbers the same. The seat-to-seat duration will be less with a more aggressive profile and actually drive better due to decreased overlap. If the profile stays relatively the same size, you won't gain much power - you'll just increase the wear on your valvetrain.
The BBK is trash. I'd sell it and try to get an LS6. If you're lucky, that won't cost you much. I'd probably stay away from the FAST due to the investment involved. Big heads/cam or a big motor, I'd do the FAST, since it'd be worth the investment given the rest of the cash involved.
The cam is preference. If it drives nice and makes decent power. I'd keep it. Going to more brutal lobes will actually make it drive nicer if you keep the .050" numbers the same. The seat-to-seat duration will be less with a more aggressive profile and actually drive better due to decreased overlap. If the profile stays relatively the same size, you won't gain much power - you'll just increase the wear on your valvetrain.
should be another good 1 
