Melba LS1

Hi All,

So after much debate and research I'm thinking I want this cam. My ride is a Aussie Commodore SV8 LS1, stock 241 heads, LS6 intake, 28lb injectors. Stock A4, 3.08 diff. Think of it like a 4 door version of a 2004 GTO.
Only mods on car are full exhaust, with cats and HP tuners tune. It is a pure daily driver-family weekender.
It is my first LS1 but I have had lots of modded cars in my life. The car gas travelled 92,000 miles but is in terrific condition mechanically.
Basically all I'm wanting is a bit more torque down low and through the mid range. I don't want to go bigger converter, or gears and I don't even want to change out the factory air box or maf or do a full remap speed density tune either.
I have attached the cam spec card and would like to know you tech guys opinion as to whether or not my ambitions will be fulfilled within the specs of this cam. I know there are heaps bigger grinds that make more power but I'm not interested. I'm not a street racer anymore.....and I still have a bike in the garage for that anyway ( ZX ninja 1000 ).
So you think this cam will improve overall drivability and torque without requiring any more engine mods to accomodate it ?
I can't find anyone with this cam installed and my only other choice is the comp cam 54-424-11 which I'm thinking will make power a little later then the Howards cam.

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

The Howards cam will definitely have the better torque of the two, but you still will need a good set of valve springs like some PAC 1211X beehive springs or PSI LS1511ML beehive springs. The only way I would recommend the Comp Cams #54-424-11 for your application is if you advanced the cam 4* and ran it at a 111 ICL instead of the 115ICL.

Melba LS1

So I had the above mentioned cam installed a few weeks back and I thought I would share my opinion for anyone else that may be interested in this cam. I could not find any review at all on this cam over the internet but on specs alone it sounded like it was very close to what I thought would work as I anticipated.

The cam is probably best suited as a stock replacement cam at best. On my tuners dyno it picked up 15 hp at the wheels all the way through the rev range between 2500-5750.

It then drops off at 6000rpm just like the stock cam does.

Torque gained 30 lbf at 2500rpm and 40lbf at 3000 rpm and stayed in that range all the way through the rev range till it begins to dip at 5000 rpm but still holds a clear advantage till 5700rpm.

The car retains the stock maf and stock air box and the tuner mentioned that the airflow peaked at 95 hpa which he said is holding the engine back as with an improved air intake the LS1's all see over 100 hpa as we are close to sea level.

On the road initially the car felt equal or worse then stock in term off light throttle response off idle with a stronger mid range. The stock cam builds up slowly at WOT and the new cam feels like it has a bit more urgency once instant acceleration is required.

After a bit of drive time it does feel a lot more responsive under light throttle. Perhaps the stock computer keeps adjusting air - fuel till its happy or the colder weather has improved the air flow, either way it is noticeable.

The idle is almost stock with a gentle thumping sound. The family haven't noticed a difference so the cam has remained a top secret mission completed. However it is definitely noticeable to a car enthusiast albeit in a very mild way.

I actually like the idle and it's mild manners however not recommended to anyone wanting a street racer or to impress a crowd.

I have ordered a bigger smoothed Maf pipe from JHP to improve the air flow and complete the job as far as I want it to go.

Final conclusions would say that the off idle torque monster I was after was not created with my cam choice and it does feel like a let down in that regard, but in drive-ability and every day family duties it is possibly as close to stock as you can get and would not bring any extra unwanted attention to the car.

More power could be picked up with an addition of a speed density tune and OTRCAI however both are illegal mods in Australia so I chose this path instead as being emissions friendly and legal by deception. LOL

Cheers

99'CajunFirehawk157

iTrader: (57)

Live and learn I suppose, Cheers for trying!

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

Considering the engine remains basically stock you result sound about right, but I would have expected better off idle response. FYI, you could also get the factory heads ported, to take advantage of the higher cam lift and also have the heads milled a little to bump up the SCR. This, just like your cam should also fly under the radar.

LsF-150

iTrader: (2)

I'd be curious to look at the tune and see what the timing tables look like. The trucks have much softer timing than cars but I picked up a nice sotp's gain by raising the lower rpm/high load area of my tables. The lower left portion of the table that is used when you stab the throttle from a dead stop.

Melba LS1

The heads won't be touched unless a lifter lets go and even then the outlay $$$ wouldn't be cost effective I wouldn't think but something to consider down the track.

My tuner mentioned 28 degrees timing with no knock. I'll investigate that one in due course, thanks....

Also I'll add that a full Brian Tooley platinum spring valve train kit and pushrods ( 7.4 ) were used in conjunction with a new Rollmaster chain & gear and Mellings 295 pump.

The valve train is a little noisier then stock but not by much, definitely no sewing machine sound that others speak of is present and nothing different is audible in the cabin either.

Cheers

A.R. Shale Targa

iTrader: (2)

When you add cam duration the valves are open longer to let more air in/out. This also means that both valves are closed (building cylinder pressure) LESS. To help that cam you needed to mill the heads say .020 or .030 to return the cranking compression which equals more torque.