VerdeZ28

how thick should the clay be? that was another issue i had. my first try i had too much clay and it wasent even able to sit flush. then, after fixing that when i finally ran the test the valve cut through the clay and took some of it with it into the runners. how can i avoid this because its makes it pointless if it takes the clay off the cylinder when u remove the head.

badassracing

iTrader: (13)

I dont know the answer to that. I've always used an dial indicator and not the clay.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

Oil your valves. The clay won't stick to it.

VerdeZ28

So I checked it again this time at zero lash instead of 22ft lbs and I got about .150 on exhaust side. Intake side got messed up I guess I put too much clay since it grabbed the valve and pulled it down.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

It would be much better to use a dial indicator on the rocker.

Use the clay to check radial clearance on valve reliefs...

VerdeZ28

Yeah I may look into that to make sure. I checked the intake side again and got .095".

Assuming these measurements are right, if I would to mill the heads the clearance would be lessened by the same amount that was milled, correct?

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Joke of the day

My cam is bigger then the above and clears 40 milled heads. I agree though, the dial indicator method is much better.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

7.399-0.017 = 7.382", which is the gauge length. The 7.399" is overall length. This is basically the same as I measured, i.e., stock pushrods are not 7.400" although internet myth would have you think otherwise.

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

Depends on how the company you buy from measures length. For my C5, I determined I needed 7.450 overall length, so I ordered that length from trick flow. Measured them overall, 7.450.

VerdeZ28

Yeah its funny how things turn out since i originally thought I was going to be in the clear based on your experience. but it looks like I am anyway.

What were the specs of your cam and what heads do u have on?

and how did u measure and how much clearance did u end up with. it still doesent seem right to me that I have .095" on intake and .150" on exhaust, and thats on the unmilled 243 head. I am thinking it can still be due to the fact that the LS6 has the longer valves because at zero lash i think it should increase it by as much as that extra length.

Ill check again with the .030 milled heads.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

I checked my 799s before I sent them off. I mocked them up with an old head gasket, two correct length pushrods, two checker springs from Comp, and a dial indicator. As you roll the engine around you blip the valves down (by hand) at intervals until they hit the piston. You watch the dial indicator while you're doing it. Obviously on the intake valve it will chase the piston down (less clearance is acceptable here) and on the exhaust side the piston will chase the valve up (valve control and clearance is crucial here). You'll find your closest measurements at these two points. Once I established my clearances I discussed it with A.I. and we determined another 30 to be safe. So that's what I went with. I did not recheck during final assembly.

VerdeZ28

I have been looking to sending the heads to either AI or TEA. but with TEA, the larger valve could cause and issue but when I spoke to them they said if I clear it now then I should be fine.

When i calculated what the 2.04" diameter valve compared to the stock 2.00", decrease of PTV clearance I got .0052". this comes from the fact that the stock valve angle is 15°. so you take the difference in diameter, .040, which results in an increase of radius of .020"

then you do .020"(sin15°) = .0052".

is this correct?