ls1 valve float?
I would not worry with the valvesprings yet. You have to troubleshoot one thing at a time.
First things first. Take the front cover off and oil pump and see how the "dots" look. Cam dot should be at 6 o'clock and crank at 12 o'clock as shown from my engine:
If that's good, then you need to degree the cam to make sure the cam isn't ground incorrectly.
If that checks out, go ahead and look at the pushrods. If they are way too long you could have issues where the valves don't close all the way and you're bleeding off a lot of compression.
I would start with those things and eliminate them as the culprit.
First things first. Take the front cover off and oil pump and see how the "dots" look. Cam dot should be at 6 o'clock and crank at 12 o'clock as shown from my engine:
If that's good, then you need to degree the cam to make sure the cam isn't ground incorrectly.
If that checks out, go ahead and look at the pushrods. If they are way too long you could have issues where the valves don't close all the way and you're bleeding off a lot of compression.
I would start with those things and eliminate them as the culprit.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
Wow jake fusion that was good so tha5s what you guys mean by a tooth off and man thats alot to check and I dont have any mechanical knowledge whwn I built my bonneville I had it stock but I reasearched a ton before buying mods and installing them so I could do it right this is the last time I buy modded 5k dollar head ache how much would a place charge to check all of this? Anyone know a good place here in miami that can check my motor out
Yeah, that's what I mean by tooth off. If you're off a tooth, it can change how it performs and could possibly cause serious issues as the cycle would be off and the cam would be out of phase with the crank. So some pistons might get way too much air intake charge and others might get barely any since the phase would be off with the cam and the valves would be opening at the wrong time in relation to the position of the piston.
If it is off, you're lucky to not have tagged a valve that was hanging open at the wrong time as the piston comes flying up the bore.
The only mechanical knowledge you need for that is to be able to get the water pump, balancer, and front cover off. And draining the radiator. Once you can see the timing set, you rotate the engine over until the crank and cam gear are in the above position. If you can't get them to line up 6 o'clock and 12 o'clock, that's your main issue.
If it is off, you're lucky to not have tagged a valve that was hanging open at the wrong time as the piston comes flying up the bore.
The only mechanical knowledge you need for that is to be able to get the water pump, balancer, and front cover off. And draining the radiator. Once you can see the timing set, you rotate the engine over until the crank and cam gear are in the above position. If you can't get them to line up 6 o'clock and 12 o'clock, that's your main issue.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Auckland, Nth Is, New Zealand.
Yeah, that's what I mean by tooth off. If you're off a tooth, it can change how it performs and could possibly cause serious issues as the cycle would be off and the cam would be out of phase with the crank. So some pistons might get way too much air intake charge and others might get barely any since the phase would be off with the cam and the valves would be opening at the wrong time in relation to the position of the piston.
If it is off, you're lucky to not have tagged a valve that was hanging open at the wrong time as the piston comes flying up the bore.
The only mechanical knowledge you need for that is to be able to get the water pump, balancer, and front cover off. And draining the radiator. Once you can see the timing set, you rotate the engine over until the crank and cam gear are in the above position. If you can't get them to line up 6 o'clock and 12 o'clock, that's your main issue.
If it is off, you're lucky to not have tagged a valve that was hanging open at the wrong time as the piston comes flying up the bore.
The only mechanical knowledge you need for that is to be able to get the water pump, balancer, and front cover off. And draining the radiator. Once you can see the timing set, you rotate the engine over until the crank and cam gear are in the above position. If you can't get them to line up 6 o'clock and 12 o'clock, that's your main issue.
OP you must be
hahaha.It seems strange you are down on power.
What dyno type is it you used.
Still appears from dyno graph to be valve train 'springs' etc. Just the low HP seems strange.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 84
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Yeah it did sound like alot for me I imagine id have to reappky certain gaskets maybe? I was gonna try to go ahead and do it myself but it sounds scary lol I dont wanna take something out the wrong way and then be without a car and need a tow to a mechanic xD and you think its valve springs also?
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 84
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The clutch feels good I was going 70 and out it in 5th gear and let it idle at 70 and 5th and then floor the pedal and it instantly moved the rpms no hesitation at all I dont know if thats a good test or not and omg guys im at the muffler shop and they took the craply resonator off it looks like a 2.5 inch pipe from outside but inside theres a small *** pipe looks like a 1 inch no lie I took pics will post when I can atm this gu6s finishing up I installed a hooker maxflow muffler instead of the resonator
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Verdad Gallardo Here's my other question: are you sure it's cammed? A stock cam will behave like that and put down those numbers (tho the torque is low for a stock cam). HP looks about right and so does the peak. And that's a mustang dyno? So if it was a stock car, those numbers are probably pretty close on a Mustang dyno...
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 84
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Thats what I thought maybe it isnt cammed but yeah it doeant sound like a stock cam it has that chunky cam sound I got a quieter muffler so you can hear it better ill post the vid
Resonator:
will post vid now
Resonator:
will post vid now
The clutch feels good I was going 70 and out it in 5th gear and let it idle at 70 and 5th and then floor the pedal and it instantly moved the rpms no hesitation at all I dont know if thats a good test or not and omg guys im at the muffler shop and they took the craply resonator off it looks like a 2.5 inch pipe from outside but inside theres a small *** pipe looks like a 1 inch no lie I took pics will post when I can atm this gu6s finishing up I installed a hooker maxflow muffler instead of the resonator
Hopefully this make sense.
Last edited by 99Bluz28; Nov 23, 2013 at 01:31 PM.
IMO that looks like a Flo-Pro Baffle pack muffler to me.
http://www.flopro.com/img/products/baffle/baffledia.jpg
So how it feel when you hit the go-pedal now?
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
Havent stepped on it the car has nitto nt 555s I had those on my bonneville and I know that theyre crap in the water and we have heavy rain here I like the look cause the rears the guy put are 315 nittos lol he told me it was like 400 a tire
Wow they actually sell that flow pro? I hate it that that was on the caR but its fixed now its so quiet now I just like how it sounded before I wonder if its flowing better now
Wow they actually sell that flow pro? I hate it that that was on the caR but its fixed now its so quiet now I just like how it sounded before I wonder if its flowing better now
You've got a really good flowing muffler on there now, its not going to hurt flow one bit!
If you want it louder, the you could go with a Dynomax 24222(12"case L.) or 24219 (18" case L.) 4" diameter bullet muffler, and should flow as well as your Hooker Max-Flow.
They're $45-$50 new.
If you want it louder, the you could go with a Dynomax 24222(12"case L.) or 24219 (18" case L.) 4" diameter bullet muffler, and should flow as well as your Hooker Max-Flow.
They're $45-$50 new.
Last edited by 99Bluz28; Nov 23, 2013 at 02:42 PM.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
Thank you! It is superr quiet now compared to before but you know what its growing on me the streets aRe still wet whwn it gets clearer ill try to butt dyno out
Guys so I took the car out for a drive and stepped on it and woooow sbe woke up! I wont say 100whp gains but she does feel faster I wanna dyno now and see what the curves look like
Guys so I took the car out for a drive and stepped on it and woooow sbe woke up! I wont say 100whp gains but she does feel faster I wanna dyno now and see what the curves look like
You are going to have to tear into the motor to find out exactly whats wrong. I don't think its necessarily a problem because it's cammed I think its a problem because something was put together wrong.
Compression is a good place to start. After that I would check the pushrods and then pull the timing cover off and inspect to see if it's dot to dot. Install height should be checked also. Good luck and let us know what you find.
Compression is a good place to start. After that I would check the pushrods and then pull the timing cover off and inspect to see if it's dot to dot. Install height should be checked also. Good luck and let us know what you find.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
Will do I will try to do a comoression check next week then see if the cams installed right but ill tell you she feels fast now if I get another 80 whp ill be happy as hell if those 2 are good then I do the springs?
I would be inclined to think that it's a likely combination of some or all of the following:
(1) Cam is off a tooth.
(2) Pushrods to long(to much pre-load).
(3) Valve springs weren't set up correctly.
(4)Valve spring are worn out.
(5) Clutch is slipping.
(6) exhaust restriction. FIXED
IMO, it sounds like the exhaust restriction was part of the problem, and is now fixed. so that leaves 1-5..
(1) Cam is off a tooth.
(2) Pushrods to long(to much pre-load).
(3) Valve springs weren't set up correctly.
(4)Valve spring are worn out.
(5) Clutch is slipping.
(6) exhaust restriction. FIXED
IMO, it sounds like the exhaust restriction was part of the problem, and is now fixed. so that leaves 1-5..
Last edited by 99Bluz28; Nov 24, 2013 at 01:59 PM.
